Shopsmith Forums

I have a model 510 and I am ripping laminated 2x4's 3' and 4' in length to remove the bevel between the two. I am taking about 3/32 off the 2-15/16. The infeed and outfeed between the blade and fence are exactly the same. However the board still pinches/binds about 8" in. After checking the 1st board passed though the infeed and outfeed measured 3-5/32 but the middle was a frog hair short of 3-6/32. This bogs down the blade which I have the setting at "R". The bogging of the blade is my concern not the 1/32 difference.

The only thing I can think of is that the fence is bowed in the middle. Purchased the SS pre-loved and perhaps it was abused.

Thoughts on correcting and/or proceeding forward would be appreciated. BTW, I am making a British Joiners Workbench per Paul Sellers.

Stresses in the board could cause a problem. When stresses release movement occurs. Did you try a finger board just in front of the blade to keep the stock more firmly against the fence?
Bill V
By the way, can you run one edge across the jointer and use the jointed edge as a reference against the fence?

I built one of those benches back in 2011. Woodwork bench build
They are great workbenches and you will learn a lot making yours.
I wouldn't bother cutting the rounded corners off, unless you are way better at glueing up the tops than I was.
By the time you have planed the tops down smooth and straight they will be gone anyway.
The biggest help for smoothing the tops is to get a cheap old plane (#3 or #4) and grind the blade so it works like a scrub plane.
Paul Sellers has a video that shows how to do it.

wa2crk wrote:Stresses in the board could cause a problem. When stresses release movement occurs. Did you try a finger board just in front of the blade to keep the stock more firmly against the fence?
Bill V
By the way, can you run one edge across the jointer and use the jointed edge as a reference against the fence?

Bill, I did 4 boards, the legs, on one side with the flat surface against the fence, all with the same result of the binding. Followed up with a non laminated 2x4x24 piece with the same result. Going to remove the fence and place a 2x4 from the front of the table to the begining of the blade and see what happens. Oh ya, I did have the finger on the whole time.

I been told that I am a perfectionist. Started cleaning the jointer blade assembly and still working on getting the precise blade adjustment. This was my original thought of removing the stock. Also been told I am impatient at times, grin.

Two ?

Have you laid a straight edge against the fence to determine if it is caved in/out?

Have you verified the fence to blade alignment?

rpd wrote:I built one of those benches back in 2011. Woodwork bench build
They are great workbenches and you will learn a lot making yours.
I wouldn't bother cutting the rounded corners off, unless you are way better at glueing up the tops than I was.
By the time you have planed the tops down smooth and straight they will be gone anyway.
The biggest help for smoothing the tops is to get a cheap old plane (#3 or #4) and grind the blade so it works like a scrub plane.
Paul Sellers has a video that shows how to do it.

Ron, great job on your bench, also like the shift of the tool well. Doing laminates for turning the last few months and most of the kinks are worked out. Purchased Kiln-Dried Douglas-Fir Dimensional Lumber for my project.

Never used a plane before and was hoping to stay clear of it which is the reason of the direction taken. Paul Sellers is awesome and swears by the Stanley #4.

JPG wrote:Two ?

Have you laid a straight edge against the fence to determine if it is caved in/out?

Have you verified the fence to blade alignment?

JPG, Don't understand your comment of "two". Fence to blade is aligned within 1/64. You know JP that would be too easy using the straight edge on the fence, facepalm. Did however place a 2x4 from the front of the table to the beginning of the blade and had zero problems but the laminated 2x4's a different story. Might be asking to much of the 510, when it bogs down I reduce the feed.

NLV wrote:

JPG wrote:Two ?

Have you laid a straight edge against the fence to determine if it is caved in/out?

Have you verified the fence to blade alignment?

JPG, Don't understand your comment of "two". Fence to blade is aligned within 1/64. You know JP that would be too easy using the straight edge on the fence, facepalm. Did however place a 2x4 from the front of the table to the beginning of the blade and had zero problems but the laminated 2x4's a different story. Might be asking to much of the 510, when it bogs down I reduce the feed.

"Two ?" = "Two questions"

The reason for the straight edge ? is that if the fence is bowed as you suspect it makes s difference re the blade to fence alignment. I.E. within 1/64 of what/where?

I am trying to eliminate(or discover) alignment as the problem. If not the workpiece is causing it.

If the workpiece is bowed concave towards the fence, this problem will occur.

It is most likely the previously mentioned issue of stress within the wood. Watch the curf as you are sawing. Does it get narrower, wider, or stay parallel ?
Paul

masonsailor2 wrote:It is most likely the previously mentioned issue of stress within the wood. Watch the curf as you are sawing. Does it get narrower, wider, or stay parallel ?
Paul

I am new at woodworking but thought that the curf/kerf would remain the same throughout the cut. I would like to read up on this if you have a link.
Thanks