Twisting and bowing
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Twisting and bowing
Just resawed some 3/4 hard maple into 1/4 for some fretwork, but after the resawed it really twisted and bowed to where it's almost unusable. Anyone have some tips for this? Should I just plane down 2 pieces from 3/4 down to 1/4, and hope it won't do the same?
-Beave
- BuckeyeDennis
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3802
- Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:03 pm
- Location: Central Ohio
Re: Twisting and bowing
In his videos, Charles Neil famously advises "Sneak up on it!". (At one point, you could buy T-shirts with that slogan, on his website.) By which he means, if you need really straight/true milled lumber, don't try and take it to the final dimensions on the first milling. For the exact reasons you experienced .. the wood will still move due to the internal stresses.
So he recommends milling lumber to final size in several steps, giving it a few days to relax in between each step. And then begin the next step as if it were rough lumber: joint new flat/straight reference surfaces, and then thickness plane it.
So he recommends milling lumber to final size in several steps, giving it a few days to relax in between each step. And then begin the next step as if it were rough lumber: joint new flat/straight reference surfaces, and then thickness plane it.
Re: Twisting and bowing
+1 on what BuckeyDennis says. I'm currently sneaking up, with hand-planes, on some maple slabs I'm preparing for a job. I keep sighting down them and concentrating on the high spots / corners. Usually I'm successful, but last year I had some White Oak that just wanted to turn into Pringles chips.
Chris
Chris
Re: Twisting and bowing
I typically can do it without issue, but this hard maple did the Pringle deal. If I joint it the way it is, I will send up with a wooden nickle. Right now they are under pressure to see if the come back partially.
Think planning it down would still cause a Pringle effect?
Think planning it down would still cause a Pringle effect?
-Beave
- Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
Re: Twisting and bowing
Their are a zillion reasons this can happen. How and where the tree grew. How it was cut, how it was treated after it was cut. How it was dried. How it was stored, and on and on.Beave2012 wrote:Just resawed some 3/4 hard maple into 1/4 for some fretwork, but after the resawed it really twisted and bowed to where it's almost unusable. Anyone have some tips for this? Should I just plane down 2 pieces from 3/4 down to 1/4, and hope it won't do the same?
I have cut wood that was straight and it remained straight then I have cut wood that curled like a pigs tail. I have had wood literally explode when cut and I have had wood that should be as hard as rock cut like butter.
I have seen 2x4 studs nailed in a wall turn 90 - 180 degrees from the time they were used until the wall was dry walled during construction of a house. Yet the studs from the same pile nailed the same way remained perfectly straight.
Wood is a living thing and until it rots, is burned or otherwise destroyed it will do things none of can fully explain.
Best advice cut it down to almost finish size, let it rest at least a day, better a week, then mill it to size. Again let it rest for a period of time then use it.
Re: Twisting and bowing
I'm curious for more info. We know the board was 3/4 thick originally. How wide and how long? Was there really circular grain when looking at the end grain?
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Re: Twisting and bowing
BINGO. There is my reason. I messed up on selection (too good of a deal for a reason) and got a center cut piece (circular), and split it down the center to resaw. The two halves held it together and I split them. I guess I'll just have to plane down the full 1x12 down to 1/4 inch... Such a waste. But first I'll eye how bad it is after the glue up. The work after the resaw helped a bit and may still be salvageable. Stay tuned for an update I guess.algale wrote:I'm curious for more info. We know the board was 3/4 thick originally. How wide and how long? Was there really circular grain when looking at the end grain?
-Beave
Re: Twisting and bowing
Could you rip the pith (center) out of it
. the then glue the outer panels back together.

Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
Re: Twisting and bowing
It's not that close to center, but it's 12" wide so it has both directions of grain.rpd wrote:Could you rip the pith (center) out of it. the then glue the outer panels back together.
-Beave
Re: Twisting and bowing
I meant the pith (center of the tree) which is not necessarily the center of the board.Beave2012 wrote:It's not that close to center, but it's 12" wide so it has both directions of grain.rpd wrote:Could you rip the pith (center) out of it. the then glue the outer panels back together.

This video may be helpful.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k19jzpEuFl4[/youtube]
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,