I'm getting around to opening up the Mark V to make sure it's good to go before using it, and I suppose I've come across a locked control (not 'idler' as I previously had written) sheave. I was hoping to do this without making a post here about it, but that's not going to happen.
Watching the videos, it seems if the sheaves were locked in the reverse position (not sure of low speed or high speed position), I'd be able to remove the belt and sheaves. But that doesn't seem to be the case. So, I suppose my main question here is how to I continue the process of removing/unlocking the sheave?
I'm including some pictures to help you help me. I figure they do a much better job than me trying to explain what I simply don't know.
Thanks in advance!
Locked sheave?
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Locked sheave?
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Re: Locked sheave?
You are in the SLOW speed position. You should be able to change the speed to FAST without the motor operating so you can remove the belt. I have to cut the belt off many times as the belt can get glued/stuck to the sheaves.
Do not man handle the aluminum shaeves with large screwdrivers or pry bars. I would put the headstock in the drill press position, tie the belt housing out of the way and I use Kroil, a penetration spray between both sets of sheaves, in the control sheave oil hole and on the motor shaft and key. You will need several applications with setting overnight or longer to let the solution work.
My favorite penetrating oil is Kroil. You can use WD40, PB Blaster, or a home made solution of half automatic trans fluid (ATM) and half acetone works really well. Only mix up only what you need as the acetone flashes off quickly. Let it soak and you will get it off. It does smell and will stain your fingers.
Do not man handle the aluminum shaeves with large screwdrivers or pry bars. I would put the headstock in the drill press position, tie the belt housing out of the way and I use Kroil, a penetration spray between both sets of sheaves, in the control sheave oil hole and on the motor shaft and key. You will need several applications with setting overnight or longer to let the solution work.
My favorite penetrating oil is Kroil. You can use WD40, PB Blaster, or a home made solution of half automatic trans fluid (ATM) and half acetone works really well. Only mix up only what you need as the acetone flashes off quickly. Let it soak and you will get it off. It does smell and will stain your fingers.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Locked sheave?
Likely both(floating and control) sheaves are stuck to their shafts.
Gentle persuasion is a long process as Bill mentioned.
Be prepared to use stronger methods(at the risk of damage) if that fails.
Bottom line though is, they gotta come off.
Gentle persuasion is a long process as Bill mentioned.
Be prepared to use stronger methods(at the risk of damage) if that fails.
Bottom line though is, they gotta come off.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange