Waxing the Shopsmith

[gatheringsplinters]

Quick question for you guys.

When I first got my Shopsmith I waxed it as per the manual with SC Johnson Paste Wax (Original Formula). When I go to apply wax again do I need to use Mineral Spirits to remove the initial layer before applying it again or can I just put it over the old coat and buff it out?

Thanks

[nuhobby]

I think there will be sufficient solvents in the new wax to effectively have you 'starting fresh' without any pre-preparations.

Enjoy!

Chris

[rjent]

Nick Engler talks about how the "new" layer of wax dissolves the "old" layer and therefore no "buildup" takes place. He said that on the video when he is working with the pro planer. I have always assumed that it applies to the way tubes as well.

JMHO

[gatheringsplinters]

Thanks guys! Good to know I should be able to just apply a new layer over the old!

[dusty]

If you polish out the wax after it is applied, there is no build up! However, don'y put wax on top of wax without polishing out the forst coat. If that first coat is left to "dry", you may find yourself working hard to bring back the shine.

That is the condition I have now. A well waxed machine that was never polished out. It looks dull and will take some work to get it back to its original shine.

[ERLover]

A damp rag of Mineral Spirits will bring it back without much work Dusty.

[JPG]

If there is so much wax 'left', why does it need it?


A facetious way of saying there is not likely much wax left anyway.

Besides shine is not the objective - slick, rust proof is.

Polishing helps the slick at the expense of anti oxidation properties.

[gatheringsplinters]

If there is so much wax 'left', why does it need it?
A facetious way of saying there is not likely much wax left anyway.
Besides shine is not the objective - slick, rust proof is.
Polishing helps the slick at the expense of anti oxidation properties.

I'm trying to stick with the upkeep schedule listed in the manual. That's the only reason I've got to reapply the wax at this point.

[ERLover]

Some here and me on the raw steel and cast iron use an oil based paint thinner, I am going to miss spell it Penitrol?? then wax. I shellac my raw steel and cast iron too, then wax.
Here is the site. and info for raw metal and aluminum
http://www.flood.com/paint-additive-solutions

[Ed in Tampa]

I am a believer in Flood Penetrol also.
Living hot humid Florida surrounded by salt water Penetrol and Johnson paste wax works!