Shopsmith High Speed Steel Table Saw Blades - Sharpen or Retire?

[reubenjames]

So, when I bought my second Shopsmith it came with a bunch of Shopsmith brand, high speed steel blades. In fact, other than a cheap carbide blade which I am emphatically not happy with, all I have is my wall of HSS blades.

The only problem is, they need some sharpening, and I have found my efforts to sharpen any kind of blade ends up with blades duller than my wits. Not that I'm not all for trying again. I read on another thread here about someone who successfully used the Harbor Freight sharpener, presumably this one.

There are also a couple of places in town that offer sharpening services, though I don't know price or quality of work. I realize relatively decent carbides are reasonably priced, but I hate for all those blades to go to waste. And while I have a 5/8" arbor or two, I have almost all of the 1 1/4" arbor hole blades on arbors already, and it would be very convenient to swap out those, also allowing for the supposed stability the larger arbor gives.

I've heard some people say sharpen the HSS and use it for plywood and composites. I've also read a number of other places that say carbide was developed for composites, and to use HSS when you are using wood (some say a cleaner cut; all would agree they would stay sharper longer than if you used them on ply) and use carbide when dealing with composites.

I need to double-check all my alignments this weekend. My riving knife never quite centers, even after toying with the set screw, and I think that's because the collar that goes over the quill has some play before tightening it, wherein you can force the collar so that it's not entirely parallel with the blade. I don't know if that makes sense. Regardless, whether from my cheap carbide or alignment issues, I'm finding problems cutting even soft woods without issues. I think if it weren't for the PP I wouldn't even be getting through.

Anyway--HSS: to sharpen, or not to sharpen? That is the question. (Or to have it sharpened for me.)

[jsburger]

So, when I bought my second Shopsmith it came with a bunch of Shopsmith brand, high speed steel blades. In fact, other than a cheap carbide blade which I am emphatically not happy with, all I have is my wall of HSS blades.

The only problem is, they need some sharpening, and I have found my efforts to sharpen any kind of blade ends up with blades duller than my wits. Not that I'm not all for trying again. I read on another thread here about someone who successfully used the Harbor Freight sharpener, presumably this one.

There are also a couple of places in town that offer sharpening services, though I don't know price or quality of work. I realize relatively decent carbides are reasonably priced, but I hate for all those blades to go to waste. And while I have a 5/8" arbor or two, I have almost all of the 1 1/4" arbor hole blades on arbors already, and it would be very convenient to swap out those, also allowing for the supposed stability the larger arbor gives.

I've heard some people say sharpen the HSS and use it for plywood and composites. I've also read a number of other places that say carbide was developed for composites, and to use HSS when you are using wood (some say a cleaner cut; all would agree they would stay sharper longer than if you used them on ply) and use carbide when dealing with composites.

I need to double-check all my alignments this weekend. My riving knife never quite centers, even after toying with the set screw, and I think that's because the collar that goes over the quill has some play before tightening it, wherein you can force the collar so that it's not entirely parallel with the blade. I don't know if that makes sense. Regardless, whether from my cheap carbide or alignment issues, I'm finding problems cutting even soft woods without issues. I think if it weren't for the PP I wouldn't even be getting through.

Anyway--HSS: to sharpen, or not to sharpen? That is the question. (Or to have it sharpened for me.)

I am not sure where you read all that stuff but it is bunk. I would keep the HSS blades to cut questionable stock and go with carbide. You will see a significant difference. From your post I think you have other problems. Please show us pictures and ask question. We can solve the problem.

[ERLover]

I use Freud thin kerf carbide on all my saws, like any blade HSS or carbide, it is not just about sharpening the teeth, but also the set, I dont know on a circular blade how they do that compared to a hand saw blade, but I would think just as important.

[algale]

I voted to have a pro sharpen them but I'd add a caveat. If the price of sharpening these is equal to or more than the cost of a new Shopsmith thin-kerf carbide blade, don't bother. Instead, buy a new blade from Shopsmith; they are excellent.

As for your other issues, they need to get resolved. You haven't said whether you are having difficulty cross-cutting or ripping, but I'll guess ripping. In my experience, the number one reason for finding it difficult to rip is the fence isn't aligned to the blade. That is absolutely essential for safe and efficient ripping, so get out your manual and check all your alignments, or search the forum for the many threads on how to accomplish it.

As for the riving knife not aligning correctly even after playing with the set screw on the back side of the clamp that goes over the quill, I too find that if it is allowed to hang off the quill, the weight of the lower saw guard wants to cause the entire assembly to pitch in the direction of the tail stock. So caution is in order when tightening the clamp to make sure you are applying a little finger pressure holding/pulling the top of the clamp as far as possible toward the head stock. Before lowering the table, I always check by sighting along the blade and the riving knife to make sure the riving knife is centered.

Then you must still exercise caution when lowering the main table because if you leave the adjustable portion of the lower saw guard too far open, the tie-bar guard catches on the adjustable portion of the lower saw guard, overwhelms the clamp and reintroduces pitch on the lower saw guard and throws off the alignment of the riving knife relative to the blade. If you do bang the tie-bar guard on the lower saw guard (which I do way too often!), it is a good idea to sight down the blade again to make sure you haven't mucked things up and the riving knife is still centered down the blade!

[dusty]

I voted to have a pro sharpen them but I'd add a caveat. If the price of sharpening these is equal to or more than the cost of a new Shopsmith thin-kerf carbide blade, don't bother. Instead, buy a new blade from Shopsmith; they are excellent.

As for your other issues, they need to get resolved. You haven't said whether you are having difficulty cross-cutting or ripping, but I'll guess ripping. In my experience, the number one reason for finding it difficult to rip is the fence isn't aligned to the blade. That is absolutely essential for safe and efficient ripping, so get out your manual and check all your alignments, or search the forum for the many threads on how to accomplish it.

As for the riving knife not aligning correctly even after playing with the set screw on the back side of the clamp that goes over the quill, I too find that if it is allowed to hang off the quill, the weight of the lower saw guard wants to cause the entire assembly to pitch in the direction of the tail stock. So caution is in order when tightening the clamp to make sure you are applying a little finger pressure holding/pulling the top of the clamp as far as possible toward the head stock. Before lowering the table, I always check by sighting along the blade and the riving knife to make sure the riving knife is centered.

Then you must still exercise caution when lowering the main table because if you leave the adjustable portion of the lower saw guard too far open, the tie-bar guard catches on the adjustable portion of the lower saw guard, overwhelms the clamp and reintroduces pitch on the lower saw guard and throws off the alignment of the riving knife relative to the blade. If you do bang the tie-bar guard on the lower saw guard (which I do way too often!), it is a good idea to sight down the blade again to make sure you haven't mucked things up and the riving knife is still centered down the blade!

Very well stated. To say more would be superfluous.

[BuckeyeDennis]

Regarding the riving knife not centering repeatably, I used to have the same problem on my 520. I eventually discovered that the back edge of the riving knife was rubbing against the back edge of the table-insert slot, and binding up a bit.

Being an idiot, I proceeded to file out the back of the table-insert slot a bit to provide some clearance. Which solved the problem temporarily.

Later, the problem recurred. And it finally dawned on me that the riving knife rotates about the quill, along with the lower guard, before you clamp it down. And if you have the guard tilted back just ever so slightly, the riving knife hits the back of the insert slot.

So my "permanent" fix was to modify my installation procedure. I simply to rotate the guard forward a bit when installing it. I sight across the top of the guard, toward the table, and rotate it forward so that it is just past parallel with the table. Combined with holding the guard clamp up tight against the quill shoulder when tightening, I've had no further problems with riving-knife alignment.

[Ohgary]

I too got an old SS with an old steel blade. Around here the sharpening guys i contacted won't even do a HSS ten inch blade. I finally got a 5/8 blade arbor and a Freud blade which cuts great.

[wa2crk]

Take the HSS blades and put your favorite Shopsmith picture on it and get a clock movement and make a shop clock out of it.
Then get a good carbide combination blade for your machine.
Bill V

[reible]

I grew up before you had any choice of saw blades. I've been there and done the steel blades and I do believe I would give up wood working rather then have to go back to them.

We had a basement shop and two table saws, a collection of steel blades and some how none of the blades would be usable and I do mean that I put off sharpening them for as long as I could. You need to make sure they are flat, you have to make sure they are round, you have to set the teeth, you have to file the teeth then sometimes they have to be tossed anyway because one of the steps finds a defect that can not be repaired/redone. Then after all that work you use them only a short while and they are dull again so back to another lost weekend doing blades rather then woodworking.

I still have a collection of steel blades from when I got my new shopsmith back in 1976. A few are new and a few are like new but they have not been on the machine since I got my first carbide blade. I keep them around so I can show by grandkids how hard we had it when I was growing up.

I personally like the blades from Infinity. I don't like or use cheap blades for fine woodworking. I'm professional enough to know the difference in cut and blade life so spending a bit more is worth it for me. A good combo blade is a nice starting spot followed by a thin kerf rip blade will get you a long way. If you just want to cut up wood for rustic birdhouses then the cheap blades are fine and yes I have to admit I have a collection of them as well for just the purpose.

Steel blades are from the dark ages and should stay there.

Ed

[Ed in Tampa]

I voted to have them professionally sharpened but only if the cost is low enough. One thing I would never do is buy a non carbide blade today.
Carbide blades are so reasonably priced that I see no reason for HS S blades today.


A word on professional sharpening. If done by a true pro it will increase the production value of most blades a 100%. Every blade I have had professionally sharpened has cut way better than they did brand new. The sharpener I use grinds the blade both on the top of the teeth, on the side and even checks balance, roundness and run out.