Part identification (8" plywood blade?)
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- reubenjames
- Gold Member
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:20 am
- Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Part identification (8" plywood blade?)
I got this with my Mark V 500 buy a couple years ago. It's an 8" blade, looks like maybe for plywood? Is this made for the Mark V table saw?
Alec S.
1985 Mark V upgraded to 520 and Power Pro (SN 000527)
1983 Mark V Shop Deputy (SN 163487)
1982 Mark V headstock (SN 122265)
1949 (?) 10 ER in transition to dedicated drill press (SN 18677)
11" Band Saw (Aluminum Table System upgrade) (SN 34026)
4" Jointer (SN 02-18-98)
6" Belt Sander (SN 19012)
18" Jig Saw (SN 17407)
20" Scroll Saw (SN 010593)
12" Thickness Planer (SN 10406)
Strip Sander (SN pending)
DC3300 Dust Collector (SN 102088)
1985 Mark V upgraded to 520 and Power Pro (SN 000527)
1983 Mark V Shop Deputy (SN 163487)
1982 Mark V headstock (SN 122265)
1949 (?) 10 ER in transition to dedicated drill press (SN 18677)
11" Band Saw (Aluminum Table System upgrade) (SN 34026)
4" Jointer (SN 02-18-98)
6" Belt Sander (SN 19012)
18" Jig Saw (SN 17407)
20" Scroll Saw (SN 010593)
12" Thickness Planer (SN 10406)
Strip Sander (SN pending)
DC3300 Dust Collector (SN 102088)
- dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Re: Part identification (8" plywood blade?)
Yes it is and it appears to have an arbor attached.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Re: Part identification (8" plywood blade?)
Never did like the fine tooth plywood blades. They seemed to burn a lot and also bind especially in the thicker plywoods even in the hand saws. ( Skillsaw ) Modern blades do a better job without the burning and binding. Also the small teeth do not lend themselves to resharpening. High tooth count thus expensive to grind.
Bill V
Bill V
- stephen_a._draper
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Re: Part identification (8" plywood blade?)
I had the same problem with my 8" plywood blade. It was fine on 1/4" or 3/8" material but burned on thicker materials even after being sharpened. Consequently, I sold it on eBay. I later bought the 10" Shopsmith plywood blade new on eBay and have not had the burning problem even on 3/4" material.
- reubenjames
- Gold Member
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:20 am
- Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Re: Part identification (8" plywood blade?)
Ha ha--yes, thanks. It does have an arbor attached. I have arbors coming out of my nose.dusty wrote:Yes it is and it appears to have an arbor attached.
Re: Part identification (8" plywood blade?)
That is a way good thing.reubenjames wrote:Ha ha--yes, thanks. It does have an arbor attached. I have arbors coming out of my nose.dusty wrote:Yes it is and it appears to have an arbor attached.

John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Re: Part identification (8" plywood blade?)
Agree with Mr. Burger! An excess of arbors is a very good thing! I have one for each of my three Shopsmith blades and for my Forrest WWII (although I am so impressed with the Shopsmith blades, I hardly reach for the Forrest anymore). Having each blade already mounted on an arbor means I no longer hesitate to switch to the blade best suited for the job!
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Re: Part identification (8" plywood blade?)
I could not agree more.algale wrote:Agree with Mr. Burger! An excess of arbors is a very good thing! I have one for each of my three Shopsmith blades and for my Forrest WWII (although I am so impressed with the Shopsmith blades, I hardly reach for the Forrest anymore). Having each blade already mounted on an arbor means I no longer hesitate to switch to the blade best suited for the job!
Now a question. Now that I have a dedicated shop and a Powermatic PM2000 table saw I don't use the SS in table saw mode except for my cross cut sled which stays set up most of the time. I have a full compliment of SS carbide blades. The ones they sold in the 90's. At the time I was working in my garage so the SS was my table saw. The SS blades were great and then I bought a WWII. It almost never left the SS until the dedicated shop and the PM2000. Now the WWII resides on the PM2000.
So the question is, are you comparing the WWII to the new made in Germany SS blades? I am not going to buy the new SS blades since I have the older ones that are perfectly serviceable and work very well.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
- reubenjames
- Gold Member
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:20 am
- Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Re: Part identification (8" plywood blade?)
I was wondering this as well. I dug up some of the older carbide blades that SS sold, but I'm imagining you have the newer thin-kerf ones from what you've said in other threads. Is that correct?algale wrote:So the question is, are you comparing the WWII to the new made in Germany SS blades?
Re: Part identification (8" plywood blade?)
Yes, I am comparing the WWII to the blades Shopsmith currently sells (which I believe are made in Germany), and which I got new about a year ago.jsburger wrote:I could not agree more.algale wrote:Agree with Mr. Burger! An excess of arbors is a very good thing! I have one for each of my three Shopsmith blades and for my Forrest WWII (although I am so impressed with the Shopsmith blades, I hardly reach for the Forrest anymore). Having each blade already mounted on an arbor means I no longer hesitate to switch to the blade best suited for the job!
Now a question. Now that I have a dedicated shop and a Powermatic PM2000 table saw I don't use the SS in table saw mode except for my cross cut sled which stays set up most of the time. I have a full compliment of SS carbide blades. The ones they sold in the 90's. At the time I was working in my garage so the SS was my table saw. The SS blades were great and then I bought a WWII. It almost never left the SS until the dedicated shop and the PM2000. Now the WWII resides on the PM2000.
So the question is, are you comparing the WWII to the new made in Germany SS blades? I am not going to buy the new SS blades since I have the older ones that are perfectly serviceable and work very well.
Now the comparison isn't apples to apples because the Shopsmith blades are thin-kerf and my WWII is a full kerf version, but I really like the Shopsmith blades. I think you'd be hard pressed to look at a cut made with the Shopsmith blade versus the WWII and say the WWII was better. The Shopsmith blades certainly are much less expensive, however!
Just two nights ago I was cutting up a 54" long x 6.5" wide x 8/4" thick board of white oak. I used the Shopsmith cross cut blade to cut the board in half and then switched to the Shopsmith ripping blade and ripped the halves into thirds. The cuts were absolutely flawless. No burning at all and silky smooth edges!
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!