Turning - Pens - Drill and Square Blanks

[rpd]

This is the way I drill my pen blanks, eventually I will make a jig but this works for now.
- Confirm that table and miter gauge are parallel to the drill bit,
- Adjust table and miter gauge so that the drill bit is centered in the end of the blank.
- Lock carriage, table height, and headstock.

drill setup.JPG (330.3 KiB) Viewed 20820 times

- Mark the top of the blanks and keep the same side up through all steps.
-Clamp miter gauge and blank to the table (blank against the miter gauge)
Drill the blanks

blanks entrance.JPG (320.58 KiB) Viewed 20820 times

blanks exit.JPG (313.19 KiB) Viewed 20820 times

- Glue in the tubes.
- Remove the drill chuck and mount disk sander.
- Sand (trim) the blanks to length.

square ends.JPG (377.11 KiB) Viewed 20820 times

[lilgodwin]

My apologies for hijacking the last thread, I thought it was the same as what the OP was trying to do.

Thanks for making this though.

As I mentioned my setup previously, I've got a v-block as the base to hold the long dowels, and the miter gauge clamped on top. I don't understand why this wouldn't have worked. Any idea?

I'll certainly try your method, but honestly I don't see much if a difference. Top/bottom vs side/side support?

If it helps to know, I'm drilling into the grain, so I thought maybe that's pushing the bit out to the side. Also, it's a 12" (1/8") bit. Well, it was. I saw a little movement when I used it, tried it anyway. After the result, I cut off about 4 inches. So note it's about an 8" x 1/8" bit. Still seems to be some slight wiggle vibration at the end when in horizontal boring mode.

I'm also at the slowest setting, so I'm not sure if any of these issues is the cause of my problem.

I'll try your method in a week and see how it goes. I just had PRK(LASIK) yesterday so I can't do any woodworking until my eyes heal.

Again thanks for creating this thread.

[jsburger]

Aircraft length drill bits are not meant to drill long/deep holes. They are meant to drill holes in hard to reach places. That is why they only have flutes at the very end. At that diameter how could it possibly drill a straight hole? It has more than enough flex to follow the grain and wander.

[lilgodwin]

Understand. So, what's the fix to drill a 6" hole through a dowel with the grain? My standard 1/8" bit wasn't long enough, which is why I bought the longer bit.

And, no, I'm not looking to drill through both sides.

[jsburger]

Understand. So, what's the fix to drill a 6" hole through a dowel with the grain? My standard 1/8" bit wasn't long enough, which is why I bought the longer bit.

And, no, I'm not looking to drill through both sides.

Why?

[rpd]

No apologies needed, digression happens all the time and is only natural.
I just thought it easier for people to follow if we kept cross drilling separate from drilling lengthwise.
A few thoughts,
Variation in the grain can lead to the bit drifting to one side.
Thinner/longer bits will have more flex.
I am not sure why Capn Eddie used a 1/8 bit for the long hole, perhaps that’s what he had on hand.
When I did mine I used a #20 (.160) aviation bit that I picked up used somewhere.

bit and pen.JPG (146.11 KiB) Viewed 20691 times

It is just the right length but slightly too large in diameter.
When I finished the pen I added a bit of CA glue at the tip. It filled the gap and holds the refill securely but it did not stick to the nib so I can still remove the refill when it needs replacing.
Even if the bit drifts off center, when you turn it, using the bit as a mandrel, the hole should be centered in the pen.

[rpd]

Aircraft length drill bits are not meant to drill long/deep holes. They are meant to drill holes in hard to reach places. That is why they only have flutes at the very end. At that diameter how could it possibly drill a straight hole? It has more than enough flex to follow the grain and wander.

True, not designed for that purpose, but they will work. Need to withdraw often to clean out the flutes.
Also it would be good to start the hole with a shorter bit to get it off to a straight start.

lilgodwin wrote:
Understand. So, what's the fix to drill a 6" hole through a dowel with the grain? My standard 1/8" bit wasn't long enough, which is why I bought the longer bit.

And, no, I'm not looking to drill through both sides.

Why?

This is to turn stick pens that use refills taken from BIC pens, as per Cap'n Eddie
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tp1YtLDPeqk[/youtube]

[jsburger]

Aircraft length drill bits are not meant to drill long/deep holes. They are meant to drill holes in hard to reach places. That is why they only have flutes at the very end. At that diameter how could it possibly drill a straight hole? It has more than enough flex to follow the grain and wander.

True, not designed for that purpose, but they will work. Need to withdraw often to clean out the flutes.
Also it would be good to start the hole with a shorter bit to get it off to a straight start.

lilgodwin wrote:
Understand. So, what's the fix to drill a 6" hole through a dowel with the grain? My standard 1/8" bit wasn't long enough, which is why I bought the longer bit.

And, no, I'm not looking to drill through both sides.

Why?

This is to turn stick pens that use refills taken from BIC pens, as per Cap'n Eddie
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tp1YtLDPeqk[/youtube]

Ah, OK, got it.

[dms8667]

Dick,

Thanks for the post and photos of you C clamp jig. After watching Sawdust Session #8, I was about to drill drill a blank as Nick did. Your post gives me a tad more confidence.

Danny