drying/curing/seasoning wood logs

[Dave H. (CO)]

I've dug around on the internet but got tired of chasing rabbit trails. I have recently acquired a walnut log that was standing dead for approx. 1 year. It was cut down within the last week and I want to be sure to do my best at drying it while reducing the number of cracks. I've painted the ends with latex paint but it had already started to show some signs of cracking. Do I need to cut off more, then paint again or is what I have done sufficient? Do I remove the bark or leave it on? It's about 12' long and ranges from 14-22" in diameter. Another portion of the tree the bark was quite loose on so I removed it and it was full of the usual bark critters, wormy things, centipedes etc. I would think that removing the bark would be good to get rid of the critters but will it then dry to quickly? I have no plans at all yet for this wood, but want to do the right thing for it. If/when I mill it what is the recommended sizes for the most versatility in the future. In short: help please.
Thanks,
David

[ERLover]

I am by means no expert on this, or actually any experience, but am on an other forum and read things like you have, first you did the right thing about paint the ends, here in the link to Lumber Jocks and post there, much more experienced people there on your ?
http://lumberjocks.com/forums

[shopsmithpaul]

David, there is an excellent book I used back in a wood technology class. It is "understanding wood" by Bruce Hoadlley. It has way more in it than you need but will help you understand how wood behaves. If you just google it and look at the the cover you will see how wood drys. The first thing you can do is keep the ends coated. You may want to throw a coat or two of urethane over the latex. Make sure the wood is sheltered from the weather but able to breathe. This next suggestion will sound like a lot but you should also cut the log in two lengthwise down the middle or pith. The reason for that is as the outside drys and shrinks around the center pith something has to give and you end up with splits. By cutting it in two along the center pith the halves can shrink with minimal splitting. In commercial production they have a lot of environmental controls but most generally want to saw up the log quickly and then dry the lumber. This practice allows for better drying and reduced stress in the finished lumber. I have dried a lot of wood for turning and I always split the log down the center to minimize cracking. Hope this helps, Paul

[tomsalwasser]

Great question Dave. I often forget all the things that need to happen before a board reaches the retail bin I'm sorting through. No wonder good lumber is expensive.

[Dave H. (CO)]

Paul,
This seems like a dumb question, but here goes anyway: If I split the wood down the middle how do you turn it after it dries? Do you cut it to a usable length, say 12", then glue the 2 halves back together before turning, or do you not turn the bowl radially like I figured would be done? I have no problem cutting anyway I'm supposed to and am planning on getting it to a mill so they can do it for me since I don't have one. I'm just trying to do what I can/am supposed to, to prevent what cracks before I get the log to them. I've got some shorter lengths I was planning on cutting into 12" disks, but I thought those would also crack because of the pith. I guess it's time to start digging into my paper resources-I might even have that book.
I've not started with a log before now-first one but would like to continue since there seems to be many of them on Craigslist. As far as storage goes, it's currently indoors and I intend to let it cure there or at least in a shed-both out of sunlight and wind.
Thanks all,
David

[masonsailor2]

The best way to obtain logs for turning is the yellow pages. Look up tree trimmers/ cutters and give them a call. Most of them are more than willing to give you a log of two. If you really want to get one of them on your side give them a turning out of the wood they give you ! As far as prep for the wood cut the wood into the size you want to turn and seal it as best you can. Latex paint as well as other sealers work fine. Bottom line seal it on all side and then wait about six months to a year and then start turning. The sooner you chop it up and seal it the better. It takes six months to a year to dry. When you cut the log look at the wood and decide what orientation you want the grain in the finished product. A good start is to turn it on the long axis of the grain perpendicular to the axis of the lathe. You can also turn a bowl green and then seal it and return it after it dries. Best of luck !
Paul

[sawmill]

I sawed logs for about 18 years and in y experence wood in log form does not dry. You will be surprized when you have it cut and check the inter part with a moisture meter. It needs to bee sawed and stickered then stacked before it will dry good. Painting it was a good thing and don't worry about the cracks because if you cut it off they may just come back. As far as the bark t does not matter much as long as the log stays dry. It will fall off anyway if not sawed in a while

[shopsmithpaul]

Dave,

First, that is not a dumb question. Except for some rare exceptions the pith or center of a log is not a part used in turning. If you were turning between centers a spindle or say a post you would NOT want to include the center pith again because of the drying. As for bowls you are limited to what you can get from one half the log. Typically your blank would have the top of the bowl be the split edge or you could turn it around and try to have the bark create wavy top edge due to the curvature of the log. I would like to post images but for some reason I have great difficulty doing so.

One thing that works well is to turn the bowl to rough size with the green wood and then coat with paste wax several times and put in a paper bag till dry. You can then remount it at a later date and finish turning it. Green wood turns a whole lot easier.

There also used to be a wood stabilizer called PEG 1000. You could soak a piece of wood in it and the moister in the wood was replaced by the PEG. This greatly reduced shrinkage and allowed radial cuts or discs of the trunk from splitting.

Hope this helps. Paul

PS I am really dating myself with these old books but another favorite of mine is "Creative Woodturning" by Dale Nish. I don't know if it is still in print but goes back to about 1980.

[Dave H. (CO)]

Paul-Thanks that does help. I ripped a 14" wide x approx. 8" long slice tonight out of a piece of what was going to be firewood. It had been cut and sitting for over a year and the end was pretty badly checked. The inside wasn't cracked but the ones on the end are already spreading and I expect it to be in 2 pieces by morning. Beautiful wood.

[swampgator]

I agree with the others about painting or waxing with Anchorseal the ends of logs you wish to keep for turning. Normally, if they begin checking, they will continue that check the entire length. One thing that I do if it does this checking, I use the bandsaw and cut out the cracked area, glue the two pieces back together and then turn. If it is not going to be struck or something such, it will survive and ads character to the pieces. Just painted some pecan, magnolia, live oak and mimosa yesterday. The live oak will be turned into mallets, the remainder will be sawed into lumber to make bandsaw boxes.

Steve