Shopsmith Forums

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?t=18258

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?t=18239


These are two threads for references regarding questions I've already had about what I'm planning to do here on my first project.

I'm creating this thread to hold all of my questions in one area, and to report back as I progress through this.

This is a rough sketch of the plaque design I'm wanting to do. I'll be getting my kenpo black belt in a month and want to give 2 of my Sifus these plaques. The other 10 or so I'm planning on giving them some simple pens. Capt Ed's (?) 2 cent pen I think.



This is what will be inside the circle.

The idea is for the belt to be real dark. The stripes should be red. And the Yin-Yang will be a mix of dark and light browns. I have a couple different woods on hand that I can use. I think they'll work. Thoughts?





If I remember what the guys said, I think these are walnut, mahogany and teak. The walnut will be the belt. The mahogany will be the circilsr design/insert along with the stripes on the belt. And the teak will be the circle outline.

I guess to get the coloring I want I'll be using stains. Even though all of this is new to me, the stains are the party I'm least sure about, so ok really be looking for some advice.

The main belt loop and circle will be one layer. On top of that will be a second layer for the belt knot and belt ends. This will give the plaque some 3rd dimension. I guess glue will be the best method of attaching the two?

On the belt loop, where it reads FBKKS SIFU JESUS, I'm wanting to do some form of engraving and/or wood burning. My only concern here is the use of an already dark wood/stain. I'll need to find a way to make sure it pops/shows real well. I'll work on some test pieces first, as with everything else. But again, suggestions are very much welcome.

I think that's it for now. Thanks for reading!

Sorry about the picture issues. I hope they are viewable.

As I was trimming off the side, I got a couple sudden kick backs. Its like the blade suddenly caught something and knocked the wood back a bit. Speed setting was on 'P'.

After it happened the first time, about 1.5" into the cut, I backed it out. Cut it off and checked everything. I assumed my feed rate was a bit quick, so I slowed it down the second time. Got almost all the way through and it kicked back again. I was almost done so I just finished the cut.

Is this normal or might I have been doing something wrong? The kickback is a little freaky, mostly because of my inexperience.

Do a search on kickback on the internet. Kickback can be a very dangerous conditiion that can injure you. Kickback is when the front (rising quadrant) of the blade "grabs" the wood and throws it upwards and back toward you. You need to use guards or at minimum a riving knife to minimize the condition. Always always always use push sticks to keep your hands away from the "danger zone". The biggest mistake is an operator "reacting" to a kickback and sticking their hand(s) into the blade. The table saw is the most dangerous device in the SS arsenal.

Do some research on table saw safety. You don't want to lose any fingers or worse ....

JMHO

Thanks for that rjent. I appreciate the concerns. The first time certainly wasn't the rising quadrant, I had just started. Though the second time could have been. And I definitely am using push sticks. The shortest of which is the shopsmith version. The other one I'm using for smaller cuts is just about a 4ft piece of cabinet trim.

I do have the lower guard. And I've been looking off and ok for the upper guard. I remember asking about it awhile back and supposedly I had to have a specific upper guard and I couldn't find it. Or I wasn't positive what I did find was the correct one.

I don't want to misuse the terms. But I do believe it was a kickback. Even though the wood didn't really go anywhere. It was a loud knocking sound like the blade caught something.

If you were trimming off the thin piece shown in that picture while using the table insert that is there, you are begging for some excitement. It is jobs like this that call loudly for as zero clearance insert (ZCI).

You also need finger boards to help hold the work piece tight against the fence.

I don't like push sticks but this is one case where they are necessary (like them or not).

Read my signature, please and practice the same.

Your blade looks more like a cross cut blade and you are in fact ripping the wood. If you resawing I would suggest a rip blade, It has larger and deeper gullets for chip/dust displacement.

Did you remove the splitter for the photo, or did you make the cut without it being in place?

If the first incident occurred before the wood got to the part of the blade that is rising, I think Dusty is right: the narrow piece is getting down into the insert and even though it wasn't cut free it probably was hitting the the arbor flange or nut. Those narrow cut offs have been the cause of a couple of really exciting (read scary) table saw incidents for me which resulted in loud bangs. Use a zero clearance insert when making such narrow cuts.

algale wrote:If the first incident occurred before the wood got to the part of the blade that is rising, I think Dusty is right: the narrow piece is getting down into the insert and even though it wasn't cut free it probably was hitting the the arbor flange or nut. Those narrow cut offs have been the cause of a couple of really exciting (read scary) table saw incidents for me which resulted in loud bangs. Use a zero clearance insert when making such narrow cuts.

I dont see how that can happen it is still attached to the main piece, since the main piece cant fit, andis at table height how would the thin piece, which is still attached, go lower.

ERLover wrote:

algale wrote:If the first incident occurred before the wood got to the part of the blade that is rising, I think Dusty is right: the narrow piece is getting down into the insert and even though it wasn't cut free it probably was hitting the the arbor flange or nut. Those narrow cut offs have been the cause of a couple of really exciting (read scary) table saw incidents for me which resulted in loud bangs. Use a zero clearance insert when making such narrow cuts.

I dont see how that can happen it is still attached to the main piece, since the main piece cant fit, andis at table height how would the thin piece, which is still attached, go lower.

Very thin flap of wood being subjected to downward force of the front of the blade.

Also, the entire board on the right side of the blade looks thin enough to droop down.