Letter opener and other questions

[reible]

One of the items I got at the Woodcraft sale today was a Wall Street II Letter Opener kit. I got the correct bushings and drill bit and an Acrylic blank.

The instructions are a little confusing to me. Maybe its just me but when you get to #6 (page 2 Turning the Blanks) the description sounds strange???

http://www2.woodcraft.com/PDF/77C74.pdf

Next I have an acrylic blank and I have never done a pen or letter openers for the matter using this material. Recommendations for the glue? How about turning, any thing I should know so I can get this in one go?

Sanding pads to 12,000 and I have some 20/20 plasti-polish and another product called scratch free that I hope to get a glass like finish with, any hints as to if this is going to work.

Good news is I have about a month to finish this so I could redo a few times but the kits are expenive, list $11.69.

Ed

[Skizzity]

I Do Not scrape acrylic. It has to be cut with a sharp knife. I finish my acrylic just wet sanding to 12k and that's it.
I haven't done that kit but with a European a tenon is cut for the center ring.
Sorry for the poor quality.

[joedw00]

I use 5min two part epoxy on the brass tube, be sure to scuff the tube before gluing. If the blank is a lite color you might think about painting the tube so it will not show'

[Skizzity]

I use 5min two part epoxy on the brass tube, be sure to scuff the tube before gluing. If the blank is a lite color you might think about painting the tube so it will not show'

Yes. Good point on the tube showing through.
For the tube on all my pens, I scuff the tube and use thick CA.

[reible]

I hadn't thought about the tube showing through. Never have that issue with wood.

This is the perspective blank and I don't think it will be very transparent but before I add glue to the mix I check it in the sunlight.

IMG_2106sc.jpg (84.27 KiB) Viewed 7712 times

Ed

[wa2crk]

Ed
On the lighter color acrylic blanks some turners suggest to use aluminum tubes instead of brass. The aluminum is less noticeable.
I think that aluminum tubes are still available from PSI.
As for the tenon, after the blank is turned the tenons are turned down to the tube so the tube is exposed but do not turn the brass tube away it is needed for the next step. You will need a very sharp conventional parting tool (not carbide) and a delicate touch so as not to cut the tube.
Bill V

[benush26]

Hi Ed,
Before you get to turning that thing, when drilling the hole for the tube, slower is better and sharp is GOOD!
You say you have the correct bit so I am going to presume it is NOT a brad point but IS sharp. You do not want to hear the story of the time I tried a brad point on acrylic. Well maybe you do but it is VERY embarrasing, Even had an audience.

I don't go over 750 for a drill speed (though though anything in the slow range should be fine)I drill about 1/2" each time before I clear the bit. Check for heat and quit for a few seconds if it seems too warm.

I have tried a carbide bit to bring a blank to round but I don't recommend it I had the carbide in my TurnMaster and it was a VERY sharp bit but I went to HSS for shaping. And yes, A LOT of chips did go flying!!

As was said, don't scrape. You will get chips. I have the SS pen lathe set and it is small enough to use easily, but I generally use the HSS bits I have for the TurnMaster. With conventional chisels, riding the bevel is your mantra when working acrylic.

Only other advise is to keep the micro mesh sanding pads wet. Constantly I like 500 rpm but that's just me

I don't use a polish, I use a wax. Kind of spendy called Renaissance. $18 for a small 7 oz jar!

Anyway, not sure if any of that is a help since turning is so personal. Just what I have tried and it works for me. I am certain that their will be others with MUCH better advise.

Be well,
Ben

[reible]

Well things did not go well. I thought I might try and get two blanks our of one, not a good idea when you cut to the wrong side of the line..... So one was too short but I might find another use for it.

Next this stuff stinks when you cut it. Used my miter saw and perhaps it would have been better done on the band saw.

So with the one remaining blank I decided to drill it today despite the previous mistake I had made. Should have left it for another day I guess. It drilled fine right up to where it broke through.... then it did a very little catch and finished. When I looked at the blank I can see a small hair line crack on both sides that extends beyond where it needs to be trimmed. So there went that blank.

This material seems quite fragile, much more so then I thought it would be. I guess I need to take extra care and time in the drilling and I'm wondering how is the turning going to go. I might just cut the blank to get rid of the cracks and then mount and attempt to turn it just to get a feel for it. I'd waste the tube but the learning experience might out way the cost of a new one.....

Next week I'm going to go back out to the store and will have to get a new blank, I'm thinking of this as my $4 class on the project.

Ed

[rpd]

Since the cracking happens when the drill bit breaks through, I would try drilling the hole to the desired depth and then cutting the blank to length.

[reible]

I think step one will be to get a new drill bit and then dull the cutting edge which will help, should have done that already before I started but didn't even think about that trick until it was too late.

The drilling first and then cutting would likely work as well, good idea!

I gave up for the day after dumping over my dermal tool box twice. Once was enough but twice??! That and I can't find my linoleum knife which I want to modify to make a harvesting knife..... and a few other things that have gone since my reorganization started.

There is always tomorrow and more rain on the way so might just do some shopping for a few things like the drill bit and some garden plants.

Ed