Shopsmith Forums

From my novel...

I sanded/polished the bottom tubes until I'm blue but they still have this 'bronze' tinge. Do I just live with it or is this the time for that Orange cleaner?

I'm not concerned about cosmetics. I just don't want the 'cancer' to spread. If wax will keep it at bay I'm good.

How should I proceed?

TIA,

---JC

suntower wrote:From my novel...

I sanded/polished the bottom tubes until I'm blue but they still have this 'bronze' tinge. Do I just live with it or is this the time for that Orange cleaner?

I'm not concerned about cosmetics. I just don't want the 'cancer' to spread. If wax will keep it at bay I'm good.

How should I proceed?

TIA,

---JC

I attribute the lack of response to lack of understanding 'bronze'.

Perhaps a picture will help.

Wellllllllll.... why didn't ya say so?

Here ya go!

And while I'm at it, here is a piccie of the Jointer, one of the racks and some tubes. How does one de=rust those? I'm not concerned about the visuals. I just want them to arrest the rust.

TIA,

---JC

I do not 'see' the bronze?

The jointer cutter head and blades - use evaporust soak'.(remove bearings and wedges/screws)

The jointer bed looks decent for it's age.

The table tubes, I would use electrolysis. The one extension table looks ok is. The other one, electrolysis.


You stand on your head to take those pix?

Sorry they're all upside down. I can't stand smart phones. I'm old. What can I say.

Anyhoo...

See the first one, the lower tubes are more 'coppery' colour?

If I just keep 'em waxed does that arrest further corrosion? I'm trying to do the absolute minimum, but I don't wanna worry about it breaking.

Sorry if these are stupid questions... I've never had rusty machines before.

TIA,

---JC

OK. The bench tubes(lower) are a different alloy than the way tubes.

Hence the color difference. Yes the way tubes are more 'silvery', but they are both steel.

So wax em (often) and move on. Johnson's paste floor wax(original formula).

suntower wrote:Sorry they're all upside down. I can't stand smart phones. I'm old. What can I say.

Anyhoo...

See the first one, the lower tubes are more 'coppery' colour?

If I just keep 'em waxed does that arrest further corrosion? I'm trying to do the absolute minimum, but I don't wanna worry about it breaking.

Sorry if these are stupid questions... I've never had rusty machines before.

TIA,

---JC

This is a cheap and easy sealer for metal also, directions are on the can, at the BBS about $12 a quart, wipe on, let dry and buff, good for steel and Aluminum. Even thouth on this site it does not mention that instruction are on the can, I have used it, better then just JPW.
http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/ ... netrol.php

De wax shellac works well as a metal coating, Zinzar Seal Coat, about $12 a quart at the BBS, a couple coats, but dries in a few hours. I prefer that and Pentrol over just JPW, but I use it over them. On Cast Iron Shellac and Pentrol seal the pores really well. Both are better the JPW on cleaned up pitted metal seals those pits really well.

Interesting. I was just @ Lowes today and it was on sale. THANKS!

I have no problem using JPW, but frankly, I doubt I'll be using the Shopsmith all that often, so I want something as 'permanent' as possible.

Sorry, what's 'BBS'?

ERLover wrote:De wax shellac works well as a metal coating, Zinzar Seal Coat, about $12 a quart at the BBS, a couple coats, but dries in a few hours. I prefer that and Pentrol over just JPW, but I use it over them. On Cast Iron Shellac and Pentrol seal the pores really well.