Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
I know this is kind of blasphemous, but what do you hotshots think of a RAS that can do miter, compound miter, rip and crosscuts?
I am looking at a Craftman's Contractor Series 10" Radial Saw. I have a series of (shudder) tilted table miter cuts to do and it scares me to death (what was I thinking buying ShopSmiths ).
Any advise/experience would be appreciated.
Cutting on a tilted table just seems dangerous ....
Thanks in advance!
Dick 1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
I agree about the tilted table, but ripping on a RAS scares the heck out of me. I have done it a few times, it was not my cup of tea.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
ERLover wrote:I agree about the tilted table, but ripping on a RAS scares the heck out of me. I have done it a few times, it was not my cup of tea.
OK, but how about the other functions. I actually like ripping on any of my SS's. miter end cuts I am having trouble with. So if I used the RAS for cross cuts (I have a Ryobi that I already use for cross cutting lumber but it only has so much throat as it is not a sliding type) and miter cuts, what then? Are they accurate, repeatable, etc?
Dick 1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
For compound miter cuts I am all about the chop saw style. Actually gave up my radial arm saw once I got the Shopsmith and never looked back. That being said, if you can pick up a decent miter saw (chop saw) you can put it on the main table, lower that, and use the support tables in line with the top of the chop saw table to create a miter station. (Of course I have tube supported support tables on both ends of my shopsmith).
Still, nothing wrong with merging a Shopsmith and a miter saw to have a Shopsmith Miter station baby.
On the other hand however, you can do it all with less too. A jig and a handsaw with some skill, sure can do that. Even a circular saw can take care of it with some care. So yes a RAS could do the job, but I would rather go with a chop saw over a RAS.
ERLover wrote:I agree about the tilted table, but ripping on a RAS scares the heck out of me. I have done it a few times, it was not my cup of tea.
OK, but how about the other functions. I actually like ripping on any of my SS's. miter end cuts I am having trouble with. So if I used the RAS for cross cuts (I have a Ryobi that I already use for cross cutting lumber but it only has so much throat as it is not a sliding type) and miter cuts, what then? Are they accurate, repeatable, etc?
Well it is hard to answer not knowing what size lumber you are dealing with. I have a 10" sliding CPMS that I typically use for all that except ripping, at 90* I can cross cut 12", I can cut a 3.5" high piece of wood, cant do that on a 10" RAS because the motor is in the way. I would guess it would cost more also plus the space it would take up.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
I assume your Ryobi is a compound miter saw, not a ras.
Its main advantage is the length capability.
Disadvantage is the limited width.
But you already know that.
The width limit of the SS is greater(handles wider stock).
The tilting table creates length capacity issues.
As for safety concerns, the tilting table is not all that 'dangerous', but proper procedure becomes important(cut offs can fall into the blade).
The problem with the tilting table is it does not support the workpiece like a horizontal surface does. You must control it vertically as well as horizontally.
It does require getting used to. It is not a dastardly difficult thing though unless the worlpiece is large.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
OK JPG and Gator and beave, yes it is a compound miter. I am wanting to make hardwood boxes with mitered/keyed corners. I was thinking of making a small sled for the angle table cuts, but then got side tracked with the shiny idea (LOL) of a RAS.
Sooooo ... would a sled work better? I will cut 45 degree cuts in 3 to 6 inch wide stock to match grain miter corner boxes and then contrast key the corners (in various ways) The keys I have done quite a few so far, but just stalled with tilted table.
Thanks for the responses ....
Dick 1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
Oh a sled makes it much easier to control the workpieces. It needs clamps to hold the workpiece especially if the table is tilted.
Why 'compound' cuts? What shape are the boxes? Tilted sides?
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG wrote:Oh a sled makes it much easier to control the workpieces. It needs clamps to hold the workpiece especially if the table is tilted.
Why 'compound' cuts? What shape are the boxes? Tilted sides?
Not necessarily "compound" as I was just hedging my bets. Right now ... like tonight ... I need to make a series of 45 degree cuts (for a 90 degree) corner out of some maple about 2 feet long. Two sides will be about 6 inches and the ends about 4 inches. Rectangular box with keyed corners. The corners is what this discussion is about ....
Is there a SS video or document that I could review?
What are you guys doing up? It's midnight here!
Dick 1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
(what was I thinking buying ShopSmiths 
).
