Cutting plywood

[randythewoodchuck]

I have only a combination blade for the Shopsmith 520 table saw. I need to cut a piece of plywood into strips. The plywood is only about 3'X3', so it is not a size problem for the table saw. I am wondering if the combination blade is the correct blade to use. Will it suffice for plywood, or should I be looking to purchase a different blade for plywood cuts?

[ChrisNeilan]

It will do the job, but any cross grain should have masking tape on it to minimize tear out or splintering. A zero clearance insert on the table would help as well. Blades made for plywood are better still. Try a test cut to see how it goes.

[JPG]

Feed slowly.

FWIW plywood adhesives are not kind to a steel blade. Carbide blade, less so.

Scoring prior to cutting will help.

As will a shallow cut(about outer ply depth) will also help.

No 'guarantees'.

If you will do much plywood cutting, a plywood blade is advisable(hollow ground). Not very good for much else however due to the small teeth and no set other than hollow grind.

[algale]

To the prior advice I would add:

In addition to slowing your feed rate, you can turn the speed dial above the top range of "saw" speed on the dial; you don't need the grunt of extra torque to cut plywood and by increasing your speed you effectively get the effect of a blade with more teeth since you are putting more teeth through the work piece per unit of time. The new shopsmith carbide blades are rated for 7600 RPM.

You can make a scoring cut on the bottom by raising the table for the first cut so you are basically cutting through just the bottom ply or two. Then raise the table and make your through cut.

[randythewoodchuck]

Any suggestions on a plywood blade maker? Would be willing to buy one as I expect to do a considerable amount of plywood work shortly. Also, can one be purchased w/the 1.5" arbor? I know Shopsmith doesn't offer one anymore.

[randythewoodchuck]

I meant 1.25" arbor.

[wa2crk]

I agree with the comment about the zero clearance insert but would add make a new one if the cuts are very critical. ZC inserts have a tendency to get a wee bit wider with use. For VERY critical cuts (where the edge of the cut will be seen) I like to cut about 1/8 inch oversize and then to final size with the router and a guide. Two steps but better results.
Bill V

[reible]

For anything less then cabinet grade cutting I use a combo blade and they work quite well. If you are going to be doing fine woodworking then it might be a good idea to get a "plywood" or "laminate" blade.

Combo blades work fine for things like garage or storage shelving and even finer projects with some of the aids mentioned. Depending on how much you are willing to spend and how much fine woodworking is involved should help you get to a price point for a blade.

I use only 5/8" arbor blades and have for a lot of years now. Since the old steel blades went away so did my using the larger arbor. I simply could not no matter how hard I tried to see any difference even with a magnifier looking at the cuts........ so without a reason to go that way I went to the 5/8" arbor which then opens the world of blades to you.

I've been extremely happy with router bits and saw blades from infinitytools.com. For my choice I went with one of these:

http://www.infinitytools.com/catalog/pr ... egory/643/

Yes you pay $80 but it is a good blade. If you end up find a few other things and get over $100 (which I seem to do all the time) then the shipping is free.

Yes to the various methods mentioned, ZCI and this blade has worked very well for me even with some thin top layer materials. It also cuts laminates with no chip out so it is my go to blade for quality cuts in those materials. I've and mixed results with the tape on the kerf line....(the tape has to be the right kind) better luck with kerfing the cut line first and then making the second cut. Keep in mind the way the blade cuts as to which face should be up/down when making the cuts. Do a little reading like this:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking ... ep_by_step

Lots of tips and tricks if you have the time to check them out.


If you get a chance to practice do so.

Ed

[jsburger]

I meant 1.25" arbor.

Forrest Manufacturing will drill any of their blades to any size you want. They are expensive but in my opinion the best you can buy.

[masonsailor2]

I agree with the previous posts. If you are looking for a high level cut with no tearout a combo blade with a ZCI and blue tape is my method. A sharp combo blade will work fine using that method. As far as better blades I agree either Forrest or Freud. A triple chip blade will give you the best results. If you are planning on doing a lot of ply veneer work a good triple chip blade is worth the investment but if you are going to do a limited amount then I would consider just using blue tape and a ZCI.
Paul