Shopsmith Forums

I've never been really successful cutting 45s for boxes on the Shopsmith.
Now I need to cut some for a 48" long box.
What can I do for the safest and most accurate cuts?
I've only been a Shopsmith user since 1975, and I'm still learning.
Thanks for your help.

Gene, How tall is the box?

If short enough, I would use the miter gauge equipped with an extended fence.

If the box is too tall for that, I would simply move the headstock and carriage all the way to the right side, tilt the table add a floating table to give support and go for it.

With the table tilted it is necessary for safety sake to keep the cutoffs as short as possible. The cutoff will have a tendency to side down the tilt into the blade. If this happens, the cutoff may go flying. Stay out of the flight path.

No advise here,,
Just some food for thought.

I would say you know how to be safe .

just a couple questions , are you sure the table saw is the best tool for cutting those boards?

Maybe a power saw and clamp a board on for a guide ??

Or a power miter box if the stock isn't too wide for the saw.

Then tune the angle on the disc sander ?
Sounds like a lot of stock hanging over the table that can cause safety and precision of cut issues.
JMO

One non table saw option is a atraight edge and a 45° router bit. A bit dusty but clean edges, unless you use cheap plywood.

Hobbyman2 wrote:No advise here,,
Just some food for thought.

I would say you know how to be safe .

just a couple questions , are you sure the table saw is the best tool for cutting those boards?

Maybe a power saw and clamp a board on for a guide ??

Or a power miter box if the stock isn't too wide for the saw.

Then tune the angle on the disc sander ?
Sounds like a lot of stock hanging over the table that can cause safety and precision of cut issues.
JMO

Whoa there: Avoiding this condition is the very reason why the Shopsmith has floating tables. There need be NO stock hanging off the table.

The boards (sides) are 7" wide, 48" long. I need the 45s on each ends. The other sides (ends) are 7" X 7".
They can be cut on the router table but, I'd prefer using the Shopsmith.
It's accuracy and safety that are my concerns.
BTW, I'll use a 500 Shorty.

Well a couple of things come to mind. First is how thick is the material, this can become an issue with machines that have the lift assist installed(fixed by removing the lift assist). If you don't have the lift assist then that issue will not come up.

Second, I don't recall the length you have from blade to ground, it might be in that range so someone will have to check that.

If you have a 510/520 then you can add a floating table if your tubes are long enough, again not sure if the 27" tubes are long enough or not.

If the stock is not to wide, somewhere near 3" tall then cutting it with the miter gauge set to 45 degrees will work fine like Dusty mentioned.

As mentioned:

A circular saw will also work and might be the easiest way if the material is thicker then say 3/4".

Or a miter box if it can cut wide enough.

Then of course the obvious, does it have to be a miter corner? Lots of good joints out there besides miters......

Ed

Gene Howe wrote:The boards (sides) are 7" wide, 48" long. I need the 45s on each ends. The other sides (ends) are 7" X 7".
They can be cut on the router table but, I'd prefer using the Shopsmith.
It's accuracy and safety that are my concerns.
BTW, I'll use a 500 Shorty.

Does this translate to "no floating tables"? If it does, I will have to withdraw my suggestion unless you have a sled that is long enough.

Then the next suggestion from me would be to drag out and tune up the bevel master.

CAUTION: The blade is set too high in this photo of the Bevel Master at work.

Thanks, Dusty. Never heard of a bevel master.

You said 48" long ?

I don't have floating tables so I may be out of place here ,,, can you raise them or lower them and angle them to support that much stock at that angle, ?