Shopsmith Forums

It's getting difficult to change the speeds on my Mark V... Several things were happening. First, when speeding up, the spindle would eventually stop (with the motor running). Realized it was the pulley's not working, so got them oiled up, and speed adjustments now work as anticipated.

Second, the speed indicator wasn't working. Looks like I've stripped out the gear (probably because I put the gear attached to the setscrew on backwards when I replaced it last... Specifics on how that gear should be installed would be helpful...

Third, the handle itself is hard to actually turn - even when completely removed (so it has nothing to do with the sheaves)... I imagine putting some good grease (cup grease per the manual) should help that a little...

I'm posting all of this, because when I acquired my shopsmith, it fell out of the back up a pickup truck during transport, and landed "head first" on the ground. I've replaced most of the damaged parts (spindle, handles, and others) that were obviously broken. I'm wondering if there's anything that you see from these pictures that need replacing. Have I bent something or is there anything else wrong? Things *seem* ok to me, but I'm not sure.

Thanks for your help!
https://imgur.com/a/I5uN8 (If it's easier that way).

You can buy a new speed dial from Shopsmith or there's a guy on ebay who repairs em with steel teeth inserts.

The porkchop teeth look a bit worn, but can be touched up with a file (use a light touch).

Definitely helps to have some kind of lube on the worm gear.

I plan on purchasing a new face plate, curious if I'm at a spot where I need to purchase anything else. There's no slop in the speed control mechanism, so I hesitate to modify the teeth with a file... What would I even try to file to accomplish?

Any other reason you can think of that may be causing the speed control to be so tough to turn? It doesn't *look* bent, but I guess something might be and it's hard to see...

jrhamilt wrote:I plan on purchasing a new face plate, curious if I'm at a spot where I need to purchase anything else. There's no slop in the speed control mechanism, so I hesitate to modify the teeth with a file... What would I even try to file to accomplish?

Any other reason you can think of that may be causing the speed control to be so tough to turn? It doesn't *look* bent, but I guess something might be and it's hard to see...

Take a look at your photo of the teeth on you pork chop (which mesh with the worm gear). There is uneven wear, especially at the top. It is caused by forcing the mechanism to slow speed too quickly and/or without adequate lube on the sheaves. It tends to bend the arms or ears that hold the pork chop apart, introducing slop, which then causes the pork chop to be off center to the worm gear, resulting in uneven wear. Made worse as the roll pin gouges away the soft metal of the pork chop. Yours isn't too bad. A light filing on the teeth can even that out.

There's also a permanent fix which involves replacing the roll pin that keeps the porkchop in with a bolt and some star washers and a nylon nut. Unfortunately, the member who pioneered that fix passed away not too long aog. He used to send a free repair kit to any member who mailed him. He posted his repair process somewhere on the forum, but I can't find it just now.

jrhamilt wrote:It's getting difficult to change the speeds on my Mark V... Several things were happening. First, when speeding up, the spindle would eventually stop (with the motor running). Realized it was the pulley's not working, so got them oiled up, and speed adjustments now work as anticipated.

Second, the speed indicator wasn't working. Looks like I've stripped out the gear (probably because I put the gear attached to the setscrew on backwards when I replaced it last... Specifics on how that gear should be installed would be helpful...

Third, the handle itself is hard to actually turn - even when completely removed (so it has nothing to do with the sheaves)... I imagine putting some good grease (cup grease per the manual) should help that a little...

I'm posting all of this, because when I acquired my shopsmith, it fell out of the back up a pickup truck during transport, and landed "head first" on the ground. I've replaced most of the damaged parts (spindle, handles, and others) that were obviously broken. I'm wondering if there's anything that you see from these pictures that need replacing. Have I bent something or is there anything else wrong? Things *seem* ok to me, but I'm not sure.

Thanks for your help!

Here is the link to the pork chop repair, https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 90#p185690
download the last attachment, the one that starts " Bill Mayo - Mark V Headstock Improvement "
In this photo you can see how the arms have spread apart, and the pork chop is misaligned with the worm screw.
And this one shows how the worm screw tracks at an angle across the teeth.

When the repair is done the contact point of the worm screw will run down the center line of the pork chop teeth which is largely undeformed.

The deformed teeth can be filed, as suggested by others, alternately a member once posted that he had taped the teeth back into shape with a hammer and punch.

When I repaired mine I wasn't able to locate a bolt locally that was long enough to enable the entire portion in the pork chop to be free of threads. I used the longest one I could find and it seems to be working fine.

Excellent replies above. I would add that the screw Bill included was only threaded at the end so that the full od of the bolt was available(almost full width). That is much gooder than pivoting on threads.

A machine shop/supplier is more likely to have that type screw(long 3/16" cap screw).

You will never find it at big orange or big blue.

rpd wrote:

jrhamilt wrote: When I repaired mine I wasn't able to locate a bolt locally that was long enough to enable the entire portion in the pork chop to be free of threads. I used the longest one I could find and it seems to be working fine.

Why would you prefer to have a non-threaded screw?
any concerns with full-threaded machine screw? For right size (#10 i guess), it won't be a problem to rotate the pork chop... wouldn't it?

jjj240 wrote:

rpd wrote:

jrhamilt wrote: When I repaired mine I wasn't able to locate a bolt locally that was long enough to enable the entire portion in the pork chop to be free of threads. I used the longest one I could find and it seems to be working fine.

Why would you prefer to have a non-threaded screw?
any concerns with full-threaded machine screw? For right size (#10 i guess), it won't be a problem to rotate the pork chop... wouldn't it?

It would be best with a bolt that was long enough that the entire bore in the pork chop could rotate on the non threaded part. Less friction and wear.

Greater 'bearing' surface. 'Peaks' of threads do not provide much surface area.

JPG wrote:Greater 'bearing' surface. 'Peaks' of threads do not provide much surface area.

In this particular application is the amount of bearing surface really all the important???