Shopsmith Forums

Getting ready to buy a new blade for my DW717 CSMS, (still has the original factory blade). Looking at the Freud LU91R Thin Kerf Sliding Compound Miter Saw Blades. Thoughts on this blade, anyone using one,taking suggestion, just wanted some feed back before I plop down for an expensive blade...lol...expensive for me anyways, retired and on a fixed income, don't mind spending the money for quality...thanks

Retired and on fixed income...I can relate.

CSMS...I can not relate. Never had/used one.

Freud...I can comment. Freud makes good blades. If their name is on it and it is the right type blade for the intended job it should serve you well.

I put a CMT blade on my 12 in CMS but it was available locally and on sale but I like it. I also got the original blade sharpened for about $15. I dropped it off at a local ACME store and they sent it out to be done. If you can live without it for a couple of weeks that may be the cheaper way to go.

Here is the blade I find to be excellent for fine cuts.
https://www.amazon.com/Tenryu-MP-25580C ... B000FXV5II

Here is the 60 tooth version.
https://www.fastoolnow.com/mp-25560ab.html

Gene Howe wrote:Here is the blade I find to be excellent for fine cuts.
https://www.amazon.com/Tenryu-MP-25580C ... B000FXV5II

Here is the 60 tooth version.
https://www.fastoolnow.com/mp-25560ab.html

Hadn't even looked at those, I like that it is a full kerf as opposed to the thin kerf Freud. That thin kerf thing kinda bothers me a little. All the Freud stuff seems to be thin kerf, or if full kerf they have a 10 degree hook, my DW717 doesn't want it to be more then 7 degrees. These seem to be a good choice between the Freud and a Forrest blade (The Tenyu 60 tooth at $97), was looking at the Forrest too, but $150 plus ... ow weee that Chopmaster signature line, I don't know if do enough work with a csms to justify one them..lol...but the Tenyu for about $20 or so more then the Freud, have to consider that..lol...still on the fence, some body come push me over...lol...make up my mind

I am certainly in the minority but for me, Freud blades are pure crap. Glue line rip? What a joke. And, their thin blades in the SCMS deflect and give awful cuts. And that's a 10". I can just imagine the deflection on a 12".
People say that thin rip blades are better for under powered saws like my MK s but a good sharp full kerf Tenryu cuts white oak 8/4 like it was butter.

Gene Howe wrote:I am certainly in the minority but for me, Freud blades are pure crap. Glue line rip? What a joke. And, their thin blades in the SCMS deflect and give awful cuts. And that's a 10". I can just imagine the deflection on a 12".
People say that thin rip blades are better for under powered saws like my MK s but a good sharp full kerf Tenryu cuts white oak 8/4 like it was butter.

Yep my thought exactly about the thin kerf thing, not to mention as I think about it, that thin kerf is gonna throw my temp stop block rail (that's what I call it) I made off by the difference between a full kerf and a thin. I custom made it for my csms and registers off my bench to the right of the csms, no way to adjust it unless I shim it...lol...so I guess a full kerf is in order, so it's between Tenyu and Forrest I guess, I am leaning real hard towards the Tenyu, thank you Gene for suggesting it. If I had gotten the Freud and made a bad cut with my stop block rail (because the tape measure would be off), I sure would have been mad...lol...that's the problem with custom jigs and fixture they are so dependent on blade widths.


In case anyone is interested, stop block rail

I have a plain 12" miter saw and went with the Freud LU85R012 which is a 96 tooth blade made for such saws. It gives the finest cuts you can imagine. It also costs in the $125 range.

Typically you need to shop for miter saw blades NOT table saw blades. You are looking for a blade that excels in cross cuts. You also have to match the arbor hole, on mine that is 1". The blade is not a rip blade, the blade is not thin kerf but thinner then some. From my notes I measured it at .116" which makes it thinner then .125" blades but thicker then .097" blades. Most miter saw blades are in this range so if you are worried about calibration you better check what you have now.

Again the critical things are arbor size and making sure the blade is made for a miter saw.

If I ever have to replace the blade I'd look at this one:

https://www.infinitytools.com/saw-blade ... t-110-kerf

I've been really happy with Infinity blades and that is pretty much all I buy now.

BTW I've had really good experiences with Freud blades including thin kerf for the shopsmith and rip-line blades. They use to be my go to blades and I still get some for my circular saws.

I keep the stock blade on the 12" saw for most work and then put the finishing blade on when I want/need fine cuts. And so you know that this is how it is here are the pictures:
BTW Amazon sells these blades but the image is not for this blade???

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Cros ... +saw+blade

I got this blade back in early 2001 so it is not something new or different anymore.

Ed

Go Navy, you will not be dissatisfied with either of the blades I mentioned. Every power saw in my shop, for the last 10 years, has a Tenryu blade installed.

I just looked up the saw in question, the original blade is ATB 40 tooth general purpose blade. To be honest just about any blade with 60 to 80 teeth will be like a whole new world for you. I was picturing the big brother to your saw in the 12" family. Sorry about that.

If you can afford the $100 or so blades they are great but to be honest I don't normally use those blades for every day jobs, I save them for when I need them. Unless you have all fine woodworking jobs they are a waste of money. I'd opt for a blade in the $50 to $60 range and wouldn't worry about the brand. If at some point you have a project that would benefit for a top of the line blade then buy one then. You are better off have a nice general purpose blade for most of time and then if needed you can get a better one and use it for the project then switch back for general use.

Remember this sort of saw is more geared towards construction then fine woodworking, and the blade they give you is pretty minimalist so like I said a good quality blade is going to make a noticeable difference no mater what blade manufacturer.

Ed