Shopsmith Forums

Hi, My dad has an old Shopsmith Model 10E that I am trying to get up to snuff and it has a table saw that turns at a very slow crawl that I'd like to fix. I don't know if the parts are old or if I need to adjust something.
Thanks if you can help.

Welcome to the forum!
You might want to pend some time here reading up on how the model 10's work before jumping into operating it. What I can see 1st is that that machine has a speed increaser/decrease so it might just be set for a slow speed. More concerning is that the saw blade is attached using an improper mandrel designed for a drill chuck. Not recomended to operate like that safely.

Good thing is these machines are quickly understood and you'll have it down in no time at all.

otabe wrote:Hi, My dad has an old Shopsmith Model 10E that I am trying to get up to snuff and it has a table saw that turns at a very slow crawl that I'd like to fix. I don't know if the parts are old or if I need to adjust something.
Thanks if you can help.

Ok. first the saw blade should be mounted on an arbor, not in the drill chuck.
With regard to the speed, your speed changer is not set up correctly, here is a link to the manual for the speed changer. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2714

OK, thanks for the guidance

Oh, and welcome to the forum.

Love to see the old iron being brought back to life.

In the third picture the tie bar (spectacle looking piece, under the power cord) should be at the left end of the way tubes.

Also there is something odd happening with the quill lock, i can see the end of a bolt in the hole, but there should be another lever similar to the headstock lock there.
in this picture it is left of the quill advance and right of the nameplate. (The picture is of a 10er so there will be minor differences.)

Welcome!
You can download free restored manual for the 10E in a link Under the first post here follow the link in it to My Google Drive

It in the 10E & 10ST MANGA folder. Get both the 10E Preliminary and the 10E Restored manuals.

In the main directory you may find Got Rust.PDF helpful too.

Everett

Thanks!

Hi,
As others have already said, get a copy of the Manual and Mr. Davis' are some of the best for the Model 10E. For safety take the blade off the drill chuck mess it is on and get a 5/8" universal arbor for it. I recommend removing the belts to check how well the bearings turn in the motor and headstock. Old "sticky" bearings drag down the speed and is hard on the motor. After removing the belts turn the motor pulley, it should turn freely. Do the same to the headstock pulley on the drive shaft and quill. If they do not turn freely advance the quill out until it disengages from the drive shaft. The quill can be completely removed for this. Do NOT let go of the handle allowing the spring to retract by itself as this can damage the spring but instead turn it back by hand while counting the turns without the quill engaged. With the quill and drive shaft assemblies disengaged you can check them individually. They should turn freely, if not they need new bearings. To put the quill back in place turn the handle to tension the spring the same number of turns made to release it (usually 3). Insert the quill back into the headstock with the teeth down and engage the pinion gear. Retract it with the handle until it stops and hold the pulley or spindle shaft of the quill while turning the other to engage the splines of the quill and drive shaft together. Then finish retracting the quill. Almost every Model 10 I have restored needed new bearings which is not surprising after 64 to 70 years.
Russ

Almost ANY Shopsmith 5/8ths arbor will work with
the Model 10. Model 10, Mk11, Mk5 or V, MkVII,
and Mk7.

There is a 1.25 inch arbor, for the Mk stuff, you don't
want it. There is an arbor for stack dadoes, it will work.

The distance from the quill to the blade may be different.
Make sure you're not cutting into the table.

steve

rpd wrote:

otabe wrote:Hi, My dad has an old Shopsmith Model 10E that I am trying to get up to snuff and it has a table saw that turns at a very slow crawl that I'd like to fix. I don't know if the parts are old or if I need to adjust something.
Thanks if you can help.

Ok. first the saw blade should be mounted on an arbor, not in the drill chuck.

10erarbor3.JPG

With regard to the speed, your speed changer is not set up correctly, here is a link to the manual for the speed changer. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2714

Ron, Keith Rucker says THANK YOU!
(Keith owns the Vintage Machinery site.)

steve