Here is an interesting question:
I have a '61 Mark V which has the single bearing quill and drive assembly. The bearings are awfully noisy and feel loose to me, so I thought I would replace them at a local bearing shop. I got some conflicting info, so I am trying to figure out what is correct.
Two questions:
1. The existing quill bearing is a 202KDD5 bearing; one shop recommended a 6202zz-10 bearing, another a NTN 6203zz 15.875. Why two different numbers? My suspicion is that the 6203 number was a typo and that it should be a NTN 6202zz 15.875. The two bearings on the drive assembly are NTN 6205ZZ.
2. One shop recommended substituting bearings with rubber seals instead of the steel seals, suggesting that the rubber seals, while a tad more, will resist the dust environment better and reduce contamination of the grease. This seems to make sense to me. The rubber seal bearings are rated for 8,000 and 13,000 rpm for the two different bearing sizes on my assembly.
Look forward to anyone's experience or feedback.
Robert
Replacement bearings on a single bearing quill assembly?
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quill bearings
Did you ever get a reply to this question? I'm looking to replace the bearing in my old single beraing quill. I want to go to a local store rather then SS for the part. Thanks. Mike B.
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Convert one bearing quill to two bearing quill
Is there any reason why you can't just press on a second bearing on a one bearing quill? Will it not accomodate a second bearing towards the back of the quill to stabilize it?
- mickyd
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The bearing is commercially available. This threaddeals with part numbers. READ CAREFULLY. There is some ER10 info in that thread also that does not apply to a Mark 5 or V.mike barnwell wrote:Did you ever get a reply to this question? I'm looking to replace the bearing in my old single beraing quill. I want to go to a local store rather then SS for the part. Thanks. Mike B.
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
Two Bearing Quill
YES, I have the back of the quill housing machined to 35mm ID to accept to accept a second bearing the same size as the front one (5/8"X35mmX11mm). The quill shaft at the front of the splines is 5/8" OD so no machining is needed on the quill shaft. You will need a large machinest lathe with at least a 2" spindle bore to do this accurate machining. Doing just one quill housing can be expensive if the machine shop will accept the work. I have them machined by the dozen for a better price.mike barnwell wrote:Is there any reason why you can't just press on a second bearing on a one bearing quill? Will it not accomodate a second bearing towards the back of the quill to stabilize it?
I added the second bearing on the Gilmer quill behind the front bearing as the gilmer quill shaft on the splined end is a very odd size for which I cannot find any bearing to fit. This requires both the Gilmer quill housing and shaft to be machined 11mm deeper to accept the second bearing. I believe this gives more quill support even through Shopsmith adds the second bearing in the middle of the housing.
Email me if you need more information. Thanks.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)