Shopsmith Forums

I am adding a 220 outlet to my shop. I have a Mark 5 upgraded to a Mark 7, running 110. What performance improvements might I expect by powering the Mark 7 with 220? I cut many different woods, usually hard and very common to cut 8/4 stock. I don't have dimming lights or breakers tripping today. Really focused on performance improvements by running 220.

It is 1 3/4 HP on 110 and 2 HP on 220. Mine will slip the belts on 110 as it is. I have 220 in my shop and I will try it one day, but honestly, I just don't see the need. I plug in to many different areas around the shop, so limiting it to a single 220 outlet is a slight encumbrance for me (unless I make the 220 outlet a normal which would probably not be smart).

JMHO, and I may change my mind after running in on 220 LOL.

Thank you. I understand the Mark 7 motor/electronics are self aware of the power voltage. In theory you could have two plugs on the power cord one for 220 and for 110. Do you know if my assumption here is correct?

c2h6o wrote:Thank you. I understand the Mark 7 motor/electronics are self aware of the power voltage. In theory you could have two plugs on the power cord one for 220 and for 110. Do you know if my assumption here is correct?

I thought the same thing. One could make a pigtail for use on the 200 circuit, and still plug into the 110 circuits.

I always run my M7 at 220. I have cut a decent amount of 8/4 hardwoods plus some very hard specialty woods for friends. It breezes through them.
The simplest way to have both 110 and 220 is to take a heavy gauge extension cord (I’ve used 14 and 12 gauge), lop off the male end and wire up a plug for your outlet. You have two line with no neutral so it is very easy to do. There are copious warnings from forum members about not plugging in the modified extension cord. Common sense says to make certain which ever path you take, Cord/pigtail/replacement connectors, just be certain to be the only one using that cord or mark it so no one else with access uses it for something other than the ShopSmith.
There have been multiples opinions on this forum regarding the use and non use and non need of the 220. Will you notice a HUGE difference? I doubt it. Noticeable, yes, but it will not be anything like a 3 phase 5 HP motor in a table saw.
I just made a modified extension cord so I could use 220 at home and 110 on winter hiatus.
Not sure that helps.

Be well,
Ben

benush26 wrote:I always run my M7 at 220. I have cut a decent amount of 8/4 hardwoods plus some very hard specialty woods for friends. It breezes through them.
The simplest way to have both 110 and 220 is to take a heavy gauge extension cord (I’ve used 14 and 12 gauge), lop off the male end and wire up a plug for your outlet. You have two line with no neutral so it is very easy to do. There are copious warnings from forum members about not plugging in the modified extension cord. Common sense says to make certain which ever path you take, Cord/pigtail/replacement connectors, just be certain to be the only one using that cord or mark it so no one else with access uses it for something other than the ShopSmith.
There have been multiples opinions on this forum regarding the use and non use and non need of the 220. Will you notice a HUGE difference? I doubt it. Noticeable, yes, but it will not be anything like a 3 phase 5 HP motor in a table saw.
I just made a modified extension cord so I could use 220 at home and 110 on winter hiatus.
Not sure that helps.

Be well,
Ben

That is my plan (to make a "pigtail/extension" if/when I decide to try it on 220. I have two 220 outlets in the shop that were used for heaters when I had my IT business in this building. I have always been curious, but never really felt the need for more power. Maybe I am still just to new to this that I don't know any better ...

c2h6o wrote:Thank you. I understand the Mark 7 motor/electronics are self aware of the power voltage. In theory you could have two plugs on the power cord one for 220 and for 110. Do you know if my assumption here is correct?

Yes, your assumption is correct. It is self aware on voltage.

c2h6o wrote:Thank you. I understand the Mark 7 motor/electronics are self aware of the power voltage. In theory you could have two plugs on the power cord one for 220 and for 110. Do you know if my assumption here is correct?

Be careful! If you put two plugs on one cord, then when you plug one of them into a power source, the exposed pins on the other plug will be electrically HOT!

You need to be careful. I think this is against code If you make a pigtail to plug the SS 110 plug end into a 220 pigtail you risk that someone will plug in a another non 220 device into 220. NOT GOOD!

Again I think it is against code, but if you want to do this put a male 220 plug on the SS and then make the pigtail with a female 220 plug and a male 110 plug. That will prevent someone from using the pigtail to plug a 110 device into a 220 socket.

I have a 25' 220V extension cable that I got from Eastwood for my welder. I am sure there are many other ones made in different configurations.

Something like that if the connectors are right might make a big difference for you in the PowerPro.

I always hesitate on custom building electrical due to insurance.

If we had a fire and the fire Marshall said they found non standard wiring present in the rubble, the insurance adjuster would try to wiggle out of covering it, even if it could not be attributed to the cause.

Just something to consider even if you can make the pigtail yourself.

Everett