Shopsmith Forums

In using the Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides, there is a need to jump over the first guide, with the push stick, while pushing the board through a rip cut. However, once the first stock guide engages the board, it will firmly hold it in place and should prevent any kickback. Just know that for short boards you have to push with a push stick, engage the board in the first guide, continue pushing, then when the end of the board is reached, you have to jump over the guide with the push stick to finish the cut and push the board all the way out. For long boards you just push the board through and only using the push stick after the first roller. I know my description is not the best, but hopefully the pics below will help. That is a 3" wide piece of cherry to give you some idea relative to the Shopsmith push stick. In theory, I think you can rip down to maybe a 1" wide board using the Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides. Basically you need enough room between the sawblade and the fence for the roller guides to spin but not hit the blade. If you have a thinner push stick and as long as you mount the stock guides in front of the blade and behind the blade, you could rip stock even narrower than 1" wide. Lastly, if for any reason you don't want to use them for a particular cut, you just rotate them up and slide them to the right. They can sit on top of the fence and are not in the way for making a traditional rip cut without them. You could also slide them off and set aside as well. I hope this helps.

Perfect! Thanks for the explanation and pictures - that helps a lot.

Also, as you can see in my photos, I have been just using the sliding t-nuts to hold it in place on the left side of the top of the 520 fence. Earlier in this thread, claimdude showed how he machined some aluminum bar stock to make it easier to attach to the 520 fence. I intend on copying what he did, but I just haven't gotten around to it yet. What I have is working and I haven't had any issues yet.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/wood ... 22171.html

RFGuy wrote:Also, as you can see in my photos, I have been just using the sliding t-nuts to hold it in place on the left side of the top of the 520 fence.
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/wood ... 22171.html

That's how I do it too. Easy on, easy off. I can't say enough good things about this accessory. One of my favorites!

I believe drilling an offset hole in a SS t-nut(x6?) would do the same thing as that rabbeted bar stock. Bar stock likely cheaper though!

Just wanted to share how I decided to mount the JessEm guides. I had some 3/4 x 1/8 aluminum stock and decided to make some T-nuts for a custom fit of the JessEm base plate. After cutting the pieces to size, I cleaned them up and epoxied them together, marked, drilled, and tapped some holes and got this. After a bit of experimentation I found that trying to mount the JessEm base plate centered on the top of the 520 fence allowed it to teeter from side-to-side since the plate it is not wide enough to span to the two outer edges of the fence. Perhaps that could be overcome by carefully tightening the screws, keeping it level, but I wanted a better solution. I decided to shift the JessEm base plate slightly to one side so that it would rest on the center and one side of the 520 fence, thus the odd looking hole locations.

Here are some more pictures...

I initially installed mine using the SS T-Nuts (X3) on the left only, but I don't love the result:
As you can see, the T-Nuts pull the left side of the JessEm track down slightly so that it is not resting flat on top of the fence. The right side of the JessEm track in my case is raised about 0.036 inches and the angle measured 1.8 degrees relative to the table. I'm wondering if the others using this installation are seeing the same thing and whether they are experiencing any problems?

Just for reference, on their website JessEm has mounting adapter kits for Incra and Unifence. Each appears to me to consist of four bars that mount, across the fence, to two T-slots and provide threaded holes for the JessEm track to mount via eight (two per bar) threaded holes. In other words, each adapter bar has two counter-bored holes properly spaced to mount it to the fence T-Slots and two threaded holes to mount the JessEm track to the bar.

- David

I have this setup but added washers to level the bar. Washer goes between the t-nut and the mounting bar. Shims would work too, maybe even glue them to the mounting bar??

I have thought about making a part to fix this but so far that is about as far as I got. If it becomes a real thing I'll post it here since I think we all see this.

Ed

David (DLB),
I did see the same result as you when using the Shopsmith T-Nuts in just one slot. I didn't like it either.
This is why I came up with my own solution which is working well (see my post previous to yours).

Had to go out and refresh my memory. It looks like I decided on two washers next to each other with one being held by the screw and the other clamped by the screw when tightened down.

Here are a couple of pictures I just took:
I never did try to find the correct screws so I used what I had and they work so long as you don't need to slide things over them. I think they are 1/2" and they are not too long which can be an issue. I should fix this as I don't use the center set of holes and maybe should.
The fender washers I used are rather thick but what I had on hand.
This was a quick and easy way to get it to work.

Ed