Need help changing the belts on my Greenie

[APerna1985]

Hey everyone, I have a first generation Mark V Greenie. I took the big belt cover off on the left side of the machine, and I saw both the Gilmer belt and the belt going from the motor to the speed controls are totally shot. I know the Greenie is a little different from the newer models and I cant find any information on changing the belts exactly I see lots of info on tearing down the whole head stock. Is that the only way to change the belts? Also I found a horse shoe shaped clip with a spring on it laying inside the cover, where did that come from?

[JPG]

Hey everyone, I have a first generation Mark V Greenie. I took the big belt cover off on the left side of the machine, and I saw both the Gilmer belt and the belt going from the motor to the speed controls are totally shot. I know the Greenie is a little different from the newer models and I cant find any information on changing the belts exactly I see lots of info on tearing down the whole head stock. Is that the only way to change the belts? Also I found a horse shoe shaped clip with a spring on it laying inside the cover, where did that come from?

A pix would help.

To change the gilmer belt does require removal of the drive sleeve.

[APerna1985]

OK here is a picture, you can see how bad my belts are, the Gilmer belt has no teeth left, and the motor belt is pretty much just strings... Also here is the clip.

clip2.jpg (36.31 KiB) Viewed 18711 times

belts.jpg (32.04 KiB) Viewed 18711 times

shopsmith.jpg (59.77 KiB) Viewed 18711 times

[wa2crk]

The clip is from the speed control quadrant. That area of the machine needs some attention. IIWM I would tear it down completely and repair anything that needs it and then run the machine for the next 30 years
Bill V

[dusty]

Does the drive sleeve come out the same way on all models?

Does that mean that a pair of spring grip pliers is needed?

In the last image, is that the motor drive belt marked Dayton? If it is, does it have a part number imprinted on it?

After Comment: I agree. If this was mine, I would break it down into its many parts and then clean, repair/replace and reassemble.

If you should decide to do this, do your homework before tackling the quill assembly.

[JPG]

Does the drive sleeve come out the same way on all models?YES

Does that mean that a pair of spring grip pliers is needed?NO

In the last image, is that the motor drive belt marked Dayton? If it is, does it have a part number imprinted on it?

After Comment: I agree. If this was mine, I would break it down into its many parts and then clean, repair/replace and reassemble.

If you should decide to do this, do your homework before tackling the quill assembly.

HEED THE LAST TWO COMMENTS!!!!

[rpd]

The drive sleeve is held in by a retaining ring (flat spring) that spirals into the groove, This video shows how to remove the drive sleeve,(starts at about 13:00) he uses two screw drivers to remove it, but I found that a pick with at hooked end worked better for me.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFvYrHUs7zM[/youtube]

[APerna1985]

I finally dug into my rebuild tonight. I I now see why you guys do a full rebuild on the headstock when you have to change your belts. I never thought I'd have the whole thing torn down just for 2 belts. By the time I was done all that was left on the head stock was the speed control knob and the spring-loaded lever for the quill. Once I got the machine apart and started cleaning everything out I noticed that just about every bearing was shot in the machine all except the one for the speed control. But the kit I ordered off eBay came with belts and all the bearings so I changed them all tonight. The only thing left is fixing my big mistake. When I was changing the bearings on the Gilmer Drive I thought it might be easier to slide the pulley for the Gilmer drive off not realizing that it has a clutch pack inside it, How do I get the big spring compressed easily? Also the Allen set screw for the Gilmer pulley was finger tight at best, is that normal?

[chapmanruss]

Opps!

It is not an easy process to get it back together correctly.

The following link may be helpful.
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... #post32871

When Dusty said

If you should decide to do this, do your homework before tackling the quill assembly.

Doing your homework should have included the Gilmer Drive Sleeve too.

Also set screws should not be "finger" tight.

[rpd]

I finally dug into my rebuild tonight. I I now see why you guys do a full rebuild on the headstock when you have to change your belts. I never thought I'd have the whole thing torn down just for 2 belts. By the time I was done all that was left on the head stock was the speed control knob and the spring-loaded lever for the quill. Once I got the machine apart and started cleaning everything out I noticed that just about every bearing was shot in the machine all except the one for the speed control. But the kit I ordered off eBay came with belts and all the bearings so I changed them all tonight. The only thing left is fixing my big mistake. When I was changing the bearings on the Gilmer Drive I thought it might be easier to slide the pulley for the Gilmer drive off not realizing that it has a clutch pack inside it, How do I get the big spring compressed easily? Also the Allen set screw for the Gilmer pulley was finger tight at best, is that normal?

I bought a bearing puller, like the one shown in the link that Russ posted, for reassembly I just reversed it so it pulled everything together.