Reactivation of 1960 Mark V 500 – Lipstick on a 500. Part 1

[allsas]

Reactivation of 1960 Mark V 500 – Lipstick on a 500.

Contents
Part 1
1. Loading/hauling the SS.
3. Jawa's and lost parts.
4. Second attempt to run the motor. Improved Test setup.
Part 2
5. Lipstick on a 500.
5. Request to Tech Service.
5. Pressure washing.
6. Proprietary Paint removal tools.
6. Sealed versus Shielded bearings.
8. Drive Sleeve Surprises.
Part 3
10. Getting a Buzz from the Switch.
11. Pits versus lesions.
12. Carriage Needed.
Reactivation Time and Expenses.
Definition of Reactivation of 1960 Mark V
Issues.
Part 4: Completion of the Reactivation w/Parts 1-3, URL's to references and more pictures available as an executable Parts 1-3 & 4 of Reactivation updated 11/03/08 Download and execute.


A need for a sharpening station and storage for the Jointer and bandsaw had me looking for a bigger grinder, a motor, or a stand. An adapter for the sharpening guide on the 520 auxiliary table was being worked to allow the sharpening guide to be attached and moved without drilling (violating) holes in the table. Also I was looking for a motor to drive a thickness sander because I have pillow blocks, cylinders, and thin sheets of spalted wood that could be made into veneers.

Watching the Shopsmith Academy reconditioning of a 1962 Mark V and a slow selling Shopsmith on CraigsList. enticed me to contact the owner. The owner said that there were three other people interested but kept my phone number. Five days later, a time was set to preview the Mark V. The owner included a sprayer, dado blade and some bowl gouges. He enthusiastically endorsed the sprayer because it could be moved (and the SS) around the house or yard. He had used the lathe to make bowls from pieces of firewood. The SS was a birthday gift from his wife and his sons didn't want it. That girl MUST be a gem.

[ATTACH]2178[/ATTACH] Found condition of 1960 Mark V 500S/N 366722.



1 – 10-3-08:

The easiest way to load the SS in a canopy covered PU, is to remove the legs. Removing the legs only involves ten slotted pan head ¼” – 20 screws. The height is reduced to 21”. Length is less than 5 ½ feet. The weight can be reduced by removing the tables. In this case, the extension table could not be withdrawn, and the saw table was not on the saw. With enough adrenaline, YOU can hoist it around to load it. I had a couple of boxes for the sprayer, a couple of spray guns, and the lathe accessories. The manuals could not be found.
2 – 10-4-08:

The abbreviated Mark V was transferred onto a stand for a closer look. The amount of paint missing and rust on the metal parts were indicative of lengthy exposure to Seattle weather. The Tie bar casting was loosing 2” square paint chips leaving a white powder that was between the paint and the casting.

The quill and the drives rotated easily. No noise, rattles, everything seemed to be tight. It must be OK to plug it in and hear it run. The first attempt ended immediately when the 20 amp breaker tripped. Reseting the breaker did not restore power. The cover plate needed to be removed to determine what was wrong. Access to the cover plate required removing a shelf. Pressing on the breaker to reseat it. The reseating of the breaker could have been done with the plate on, but it wasn't obvious that that was the problem and taking it off was done to allow replacement of a damaged breaker. After replacing the plate and shelf, the SS was tried three more times with similar results, a tripped breaker.

The possible problems included broken wires, shorted switch, water soaked motor, shafts that were worn and seizing as the rpm's increased. The possible repair costs were spiraling up without an upper limit, new motor $350, new cord $20, painting, and the incidental parts weren't even considered...This could get expensive. Time to get into the headstock to see what was there.
3 – 10-5-08:

Removed motor from the headstock while it was in the Bench. The switch was loosened and while it was waiving around, I heard something drop down into the motor pan. The Speed Control dial's 3/32 set screw was already withdrawn and the dial almost fell off. The owner had claimed that the control was easy to move. He might have been jerking my chain and I didn't realize it because if it was connected, the gears would have been stripped and I was too ignorant to realize that the mechanism could have been damaged. The quadrant screws were removed and the speed indicator dial removed. This exposed the elusive anti rattle spring. I didn't want to lose it. I wiggled it. I jiggled it. I pulled on it. I pushed on it. It wouldn't come off. If it stayed on there, it must be OK to leave it there. The three screws holding the quadrant were removed and it was moved until its tether to the control sheave prevented movement. The speed control was unstrapped from the control sheave. The access hole almost causes claustrophobia and created the deepest scratches on my hand in the project. The “B” style headstock has the the smallest access hole possible. Now I have my right hand full of quadrant, and my left hand caught in headstock. I got my hand out of the access hole and carried the quadrant over to the table. Looking over my shoulder, I noticed that the anti rattle spring is gone. Coming back from the table, I was looking for the anti rattle spring. Nothing on the bench, nothing on the table. The FN Jawas got it. Now the screws holding the motor pan to the headstock could be removed.

The motor pan was held by a menagerie of screws and a self cut thread for the back screw. Some of the Tinnerman clips looked like they had been chipped by using large screws. The Control sheave was rattling around in the headstock and getting the drive belt off motor sheaves was easy.

The two pronged plug was plugged into a powerstrip with a 15 amp breaker. The switch on the powerstrip was used to switch power to the motor. This setup was used to prevent tripping the house circuit and avoid having to touch the motor, motor pan, switch, and the unshielded switch poles. The motor started and ran on the 15 amp powerstrip. Restarted and ran. Off, on, off, on, off. No problems.

First, get the headstock off the SS Bench. Now the gravity of the three piece carriage sunk in. The carriage was BROKEN into three pieces.
[ATTACH]2179[/ATTACH]A Three Piece carriage, I have to ask how this happened.

No raising the the way tubes, headstock and supporting it on the saw table uprights. The way tubes were raised, set on three 2 x 4 's , tie bar set screws for the Way tubes loosened, and the tie bar removed with a few taps from a rubber mallet. No rust under the tie bar ends. The front Way tube could be rotated before the set screws were loosened in the hinge base. The other tube released the tube after the the set screw was loosened. The Way tubes had some rust, but looked like they could be shined up.

The bench tubes were taken out of the castings. Only one of them left a scar track in the casting as it was withdrawn, The scar track was caused by indentation left by the set screw, The Bench tubes were factory painted silver. The Bench tubes are about 3/4” longer than the Way tubes. The Bench tubes had rust in the scratches through the paint. They looked recoverable.

4 – 10-6-08:

[gwilim]

I just was given a "barn fresh" 1960 Mark V 500, so I'm very interested in your reactivation project. However, the Driveway file is almost 9 MB, and the free account limits you to 2MB. Is there another way to see your file?

[charlese]

I just was given a "barn fresh" 1960 Mark V 500, so I'm very interested in your reactivation project. However, the Driveway file is almost 9 MB, and the free account limits you to 2MB. Is there another way to see your file?

gwilim - Although I can't help on the driveway project, you can view allsas's 2nd and 3rd installments. The easy way to find them is to click on his name (above post #1, then click on view all posts by allsas, from the drop down menu. To my knowledge, he hasn't yet posted #4.

[allsas]

The file on driveway contains part 4, more pictures, and was updated a couple of days ago. It is a compiled HTML file that has the browser, pictures, URL references to Forum and Shopsmith ownersite info. Most of its in one file, so it can be moved to any computer w/IE, Windows and internet access for URL's. I used Nick's Sawdust sessions to get it so that to stop tripping breaker, and heard of another 500 for sale that started smoking when it was plugged in. Affirming, Nick's caution to reactivate cautiously and meticulously.

There is another source is: http://cid-1ddbf9934fb1a908.skydrive.li ... rk%20V.exe

I will make an assumption from your post, that it is too big to download, 9MB, with a dialup connection. The same would be true for the second location also. A possible solution for large downloads is a download manager, such as FDM (Free Download Manager) which restarts downloads at the point that they were interrupted,,, allowing a large file to be downloaded in several sessions. The download picks up where it was interrupted and proceeds until the entire file is downloaded.

That reminds me... I found two excellent activity lists for tearing down the headstock ---- I'll add them as the next update.