My shopsmith is rather old and the bearing on the speed adjuster came apart and locked up the motor assembly, I had already ordered the newer more powerful motor so I took the hole headstock apart. replace the bearings and now have it mostly together.
The new motor had the sheeves, what the belt rides in. I would call the V drives but the spring clip already installed on them.
My question is after I got the motor mounted into the housing I can not get the belt around the motor ( I think they are called sheeves that the belt rides in.
I can fasten the rear of the motor pan to the headstock and that will allow me to spread apart the housing to get the belt on the motor but I don't have the strength to pull the motor back into place and put the screws into the housing.
Do I need to remove the big spring by using a board and take it off the new motor.. It is such a pain as we tried the old one and it shot in the air and went all over. but I was glad to see the new motor had it all assembled. How do I do this
I Have not idea right now where the speed controller is but the pullies are apart and the belt is down in the v
I am new to the forum I have never used this before so I hope this all works.
I built an aircraft using my drill press. used the 12 in sanding disk alot and make all the jigs for the plane with the shopsmith. It has built two homes. several baby rockers and several hundred reindeer for Christmas.
Thanks for any help.
Jack
1978 Mark 5
Moderator: admin
Re: 1978 Mark 5
Shopsmith has an instruction sheet for removing and replacing the belt. Click on the PDF here for the instructions.
https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/par ... e_belt.htm
https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/par ... e_belt.htm
Re: 1978 Mark 5
Sometimes the floating sheave on the motor shaft is stuck and will make that procedure difficult or impossible. With no belt on, you should be able to pull the sheave against the spring tension and it should move smoothly toward the end of the shaft, compressing the spring. You don't need to move it far, just make sure it moves. Release it gently, don't let the sheaves slam together.
- David
- David
Re: 1978 Mark 5
Gary and DLB
Thanks for the response I will see if I can get the motor sheave to move...
So I should just put the motor housing back on the headstock and then try to hook up the belt according to the instructions I do not need to remove the motorhousing.. well in my case I did since I replaced the motor with a larger motor. but I can fasten the motor housing back to the case and then put the belt on if the sheaves move.
Jack
Thanks for the response I will see if I can get the motor sheave to move...
So I should just put the motor housing back on the headstock and then try to hook up the belt according to the instructions I do not need to remove the motorhousing.. well in my case I did since I replaced the motor with a larger motor. but I can fasten the motor housing back to the case and then put the belt on if the sheaves move.
Jack
Re: 1978 Mark 5
The only other thing I can think of is you mentioned that you don't know where the speed control is set. Per those instructions, it needs to be on Fast. This puts the belt as low as possible in the idler sheaves and gives you just enough slack to walk the belt onto the motor pulley.
- David
- David
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JPG
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Re: 1978 Mark 5
IF the sheave moves!!!?
IF it does NOT move you will have a future/current problem.
IT HAS to be movable and well lubricated(light machine oil).
The sheave that moves is the outer half of the pulley. That spring will cause that to be somewhat reluctant.
Repeating, DO NOT LET THE SHEAVE SLAM CLOSED(it is that important).
IF it does NOT move you will have a future/current problem.
IT HAS to be movable and well lubricated(light machine oil).
The sheave that moves is the outer half of the pulley. That spring will cause that to be somewhat reluctant.
Repeating, DO NOT LET THE SHEAVE SLAM CLOSED(it is that important).
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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br549
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- Location: Midway between Houston/Galveston, TX
Re: 1978 Mark 5
I don't have any pictures of how I remove and re-install my motor, but will try to describe it verbally.
1. With motor running, turn speed control to "FAST". If motor not working, manually turn quill using sanding disk or lathe face plate while slowly turning speed control to "FAST".
2. UNPLUG headstock.
3. LOCK headstock in about the middle of the way tubes.
4. PARTIALLY raise the way tubes, enough to get some plywood or other suitable material between motor pan and bench tubes, with an inch or two to spare. Temporarily support the way tubes in this partially raised position.
5. REMOVE belt cover, slide to left out of your way, and secure.
6. REMOVE 5 screws holding motor pan to headstock.
7. REST motor pan, with motor still attached to it, on plywood previously inserted on top of bench tubes. The belt will limit how much the motor assembly will "drop".
8. REMOVE wires that run from the motor to the switch. I find it simpler to remove the switch and pull it out of the access hole to make disconnecting the wires to the motor easier.
9. WORK the belt off the sheaves until you can remove the entire motor assembly (motor still attached to motor pan)
10. Generally, REVERSE the above steps to re-install. Manually turn speed control (using sanding disk or lathe face plate to turn spindle) back to "SLOW" (or reasonably close to it) before plugging in and starting.
1. With motor running, turn speed control to "FAST". If motor not working, manually turn quill using sanding disk or lathe face plate while slowly turning speed control to "FAST".
2. UNPLUG headstock.
3. LOCK headstock in about the middle of the way tubes.
4. PARTIALLY raise the way tubes, enough to get some plywood or other suitable material between motor pan and bench tubes, with an inch or two to spare. Temporarily support the way tubes in this partially raised position.
5. REMOVE belt cover, slide to left out of your way, and secure.
6. REMOVE 5 screws holding motor pan to headstock.
7. REST motor pan, with motor still attached to it, on plywood previously inserted on top of bench tubes. The belt will limit how much the motor assembly will "drop".
8. REMOVE wires that run from the motor to the switch. I find it simpler to remove the switch and pull it out of the access hole to make disconnecting the wires to the motor easier.
9. WORK the belt off the sheaves until you can remove the entire motor assembly (motor still attached to motor pan)
10. Generally, REVERSE the above steps to re-install. Manually turn speed control (using sanding disk or lathe face plate to turn spindle) back to "SLOW" (or reasonably close to it) before plugging in and starting.