Re: New member, not sure where to start.
Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2020 9:56 pm
DLB, thanks, I did see his ebay repair but he does not mention repair of the winding leads. I may contact him anyway and ask as the motor repair places around here tend to work on large industrial motors. Maybe I could just ship him the motor casing and windings?
RPD, thanks as well. My switch didn't really appear to have a problem with there being a gap between the switching plates (for lack of a better term). On mine, a couple of the fixed side contacts had a bit of wobble, perhaps enough to vibrate and come within arcing distance of the "leaf spring" contacts. This I think caused the contact on the leaf spring to erode to the point where contact could not be made at all. Mine is switching forward/reverse real nice now, but apparently, still partially broken for the power contacts.
JPG, thanks, yes 5 and 5a do have a jumper. The black and white wires from the power cord are tied directly to the black and white from the motor, bypassing the L1's and L2's altogether. I think it is basically the same. The switch across L1's and L2's is just acting like a DPST to make the same connection. If the switch is at the wall or an in-line cord switch I think that would be fine, right? As tested, the L1 to L1 blue (as printed on the back of the switch) had no continuity, I tested it several times. I see now that it should, so the switch is still not really fixed anyway. It is making connection in forward which likely means I somehow mixed up the switching plates. Disappointing, I thought I was very careful to not mix up the switching plates too (sigh), I will save that problem for later as it is working well enough to move forward.
The Taiss switch said its middle position was off, no connections. I didn't think it completely through, but thought with 12 possible pins there could be a way to make it work?
Would you be able to tell me which wire colors go with which winding? I am thinking I may have already damaged the leads or the winding shellac and I would like to continuity test the windings before moving on. I don't want to try to hook it back up to power with the wires in the way they are.
Thanks for the continued help guys.
P.s. I am not getting notifications when people reply. I checked all the boxes on the notifications page. What am I missing?
Mike -
RPD, thanks as well. My switch didn't really appear to have a problem with there being a gap between the switching plates (for lack of a better term). On mine, a couple of the fixed side contacts had a bit of wobble, perhaps enough to vibrate and come within arcing distance of the "leaf spring" contacts. This I think caused the contact on the leaf spring to erode to the point where contact could not be made at all. Mine is switching forward/reverse real nice now, but apparently, still partially broken for the power contacts.
JPG, thanks, yes 5 and 5a do have a jumper. The black and white wires from the power cord are tied directly to the black and white from the motor, bypassing the L1's and L2's altogether. I think it is basically the same. The switch across L1's and L2's is just acting like a DPST to make the same connection. If the switch is at the wall or an in-line cord switch I think that would be fine, right? As tested, the L1 to L1 blue (as printed on the back of the switch) had no continuity, I tested it several times. I see now that it should, so the switch is still not really fixed anyway. It is making connection in forward which likely means I somehow mixed up the switching plates. Disappointing, I thought I was very careful to not mix up the switching plates too (sigh), I will save that problem for later as it is working well enough to move forward.
The Taiss switch said its middle position was off, no connections. I didn't think it completely through, but thought with 12 possible pins there could be a way to make it work?
Would you be able to tell me which wire colors go with which winding? I am thinking I may have already damaged the leads or the winding shellac and I would like to continuity test the windings before moving on. I don't want to try to hook it back up to power with the wires in the way they are.
Thanks for the continued help guys.
P.s. I am not getting notifications when people reply. I checked all the boxes on the notifications page. What am I missing?
Mike -