Shopsmith Forums

My how time alters one's memory of things happening earlier. The 2° lean on the back of the blade is the result(as Algale already stated) of the unique SS bandsaw auto track design. Those wheel bevels and canted upper wheel cause the leanback.

That slight(2°) angle is only a problem with non-straight cutting and as Jsburger stated cutting tenon shoulders.

Shimming corrects that, however now the bandsaw table is no longer level front to rear. IF one needs to use the main table etc. for support, the slight angle MIGHT become an issue.

JPG wrote: ↑Thu Mar 04, 2021 10:44 pm My how time alters one's memory of things happening earlier. The 2° lean on the back of the blade is the result(as Algale already stated) of the unique SS bandsaw auto track design. Those wheel bevels and canted upper wheel cause the leanback.

That slight(2°) angle is only a problem with non-straight cutting and as Jsburger stated cutting tenon shoulders.

Shimming corrects that, however now the bandsaw table is no longer level front to rear. IF one needs to use the main table etc. for support, the slight angle MIGHT become an issue.

How then do you explain the fact that the back edge of the blade is plumb and the table is tilted with respect to that plumb line.

With that tid bit of information I conclude that the wheel bevel and cant are NOT the cause of the lean back but that table position is.

The disconnect seems to be with the definition of "lean back". Lean back with respect to what? I consider the back edge of the blade (for this discussion) to be the reference line.

Then, with regard to non-straight cuts, I don't understand how this effects the angle of the cut line if one is using the appropriate blade (a narrow blade).

The angle of the blade to the table on my 2006 Bandsaw I went through the last few days looks the same as shown in Gary's picture. The only difference is mine has the aluminum table.

JPG commented,

Shimming corrects that, however now the bandsaw table is no longer level front to rear. IF one needs to use the main table etc. for support, the slight angle MIGHT become an issue.

JPG,

If one needs the Main Table for extra support does it not tilt? If someone needed more than just the main table could they not use the extension table edge to add to the support for the original (500) table system or add floating tables for the 510, 520 or Mark 7 which can tilt with the main table?

One of the things I like about the Shopsmith is the versatility. If you can imagine it you can pretty much figure out a way to do it with a Shopsmith.

Please explain to me how one tilts the main and floating tables front to rear. i.e. raise the front relative to the rear 2°.

Dusty the reference is a level mother earth. The table should be level(before tweakng to the blade). The blade ain't plumb.

garys wrote: ↑Thu Mar 04, 2021 5:16 pm My bandsaw is 40 years old this year so it has the cast iron table and no shims or washers of any kind under it. That would be the way it was assembled back in 1981.
My blade has a bit of angle as shown in this picture.
bansdaw.jpg

I've used it only for resawing so I have not encountered any situations where that angle makes a difference. I don't use it for any scroll type work or cutting around corners. I have a scroll saw for that work. If I ever do any cutting of curves, I probably might shim the table to get it at 90 degrees.

Yours is pretty darn good in comparison to mine but your tilts in the opposite direction.

JPG wrote: ↑Fri Mar 05, 2021 12:32 pm Please explain to me how one tilts the main and floating tables front to rear. i.e. raise the front relative to the rear 2°.

Dusty the reference is a level mother earth. The table should be level(before tweakng to the blade). The blade ain't plumb.

Are you telling me that if I drop a plumb line it won't be parallel to the back edge of the blade as I show it in the first attached image? If you are, I am about to get a lesson in how to use a level and plumb line.

If I zero the AngleCube off the blade and then check the table top it tilts about 2 degrees.

JPG you asked,

Please explain to me how one tilts the main and floating tables front to rear. i.e. raise the front relative to the rear 2°.

The answer is you don't need to. I currently have three Magna/Shopsmith Bandsaws and on all three the infeed side of the bandsaw blade and therefore the outfeed side of the bandsaw blade is 90° from the infeed and outfeed of the Mark's Main Table.

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In the picture above (on the Mark V from the craigslist ad when I bought them) is my 2006 Bandsaw. It is currently on my Mark 7. Interestingly when I set the Main Table on the Mark 7 as an extra outfeed table I have to tilt it about 2° down on the left side to match the Bandsaw's table. If I was to shim the Bandsaw's table 90° to the blade I may not have to tilt the Mark 7's Main Table at all. I haven't tried it on my Mark V for comparison. Next I may have to try my 1998 & 1956 Bandsaws to see how they compare.

chapmanruss wrote: ↑Sat Mar 06, 2021 4:22 pm In the picture above (on the Mark V from the craigslist ad when I bought them) is my 2006 Bandsaw. It is currently on my Mark 7. Interestingly when I set the Main Table on the Mark 7 as an extra outfeed table I have to tilt it about 2° down on the left side to match the Bandsaw's table. If I was to shim the Bandsaw's table 90° to the blade I may not have to tilt the Mark 7's Main Table at all. I haven't tried it on my Mark V for comparison. Next I may have to try my 1998 & 1956 Bandsaws to see how they compare.

Based on what I see here, I am not a bit surprised. I don't see how it can be any different with any standard Shopsmith configuration.

Because of what I now see, I plan to wedge the second bandsaw table the same way so that they are interchangeable with coplaner tables.