quill extending lever wound spring won't stay on
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quill extending lever wound spring won't stay on
The wound spring in the housing of the geared lever that pulls the quill back in automatically was disconnected when I took the head apart. I'm trying to get it back on and keep it on. I finally got the spring onto the retaining pin, only to have it pop back off after i had inserted the mechanism back into position.
I'm sure maintaining spring tension to keep the back of the spring slot up against the pin is key, but how do I best do this?
I'm sure maintaining spring tension to keep the back of the spring slot up against the pin is key, but how do I best do this?
'54 greenie
- JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: quill extending lever wound spring won't stay on
Are you doing this in or out of the headstock?
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: quill extending lever wound spring won't stay on
The entire head is disassembled right now.
'54 greenie
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: quill extending lever wound spring won't stay on
My experience is that if the spring is "formed' such that the pin will automatically position itself in the hole/slot, this problem ceases.
Trick is to get it to ride against the shaft and the end curve matching the shaft diameter.
Trick is to get it to ride against the shaft and the end curve matching the shaft diameter.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: quill extending lever wound spring won't stay on
I've tried forming it to do just that, without much success. I'll have to keep trying.
'54 greenie
Re: quill extending lever wound spring won't stay on
Long shot, but are you sure you have it wound in the correct direction.
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: quill extending lever wound spring won't stay on
If he was able to take it out (and get it back in), I doubt he would be having the current problem.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: quill extending lever wound spring won't stay on
This is maybe another long shot, but are you sure the spring isn't damaged where it connects to the pin? If the quill was removed and the quill feed handle was allowed to snap back by itself, the momentum can turn the spring backwards and damage the end where it connects to the pin.
- chapmanruss
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Re: quill extending lever wound spring won't stay on
The picture below shows a Quill Return Spring. Notice the curve at the inside end where it attaches to the Pinion Shaft as JPG noted above. It is that curve that helps it engage the pin on the Pinion Shaft to the keyhole of the spring. Until it is reassembled in the Headstock it is difficult to keep it together. Once engaged on the pin even a spring without that curve can work and remain in place as long as tension is kept on the spring. A little turn backwards will disengage the spring from the pin on the Pinion Shaft. Do be mindful of the proper orientation the spring when inserted into the Spring Housing as Ron noted. The spring should tighten more as the Pinion Shaft Assembly is turned extending the Quill Assembly. There should be tension on the Spring still when the Quill is retracted.
Although the Spring shown in the picture is from a Model 10ER the Quill Return Spring has remained essentially the same since the first Model 10E in 1947 through Mark series tools made today. The difference between the Model 10's and the Mark series tools is the side of the Headstock the spring is on.
Do check the inside end of the spring for damage. I had one that was cracked from the end of the keyhole to the end of the spring which would not hold on to the pin as the end would separate. If needed a replacement Spring can be purchased from Shopsmith and does come installed in the Housing. The Spring is not available separately when an OEM Spring is purchased new.
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Although the Spring shown in the picture is from a Model 10ER the Quill Return Spring has remained essentially the same since the first Model 10E in 1947 through Mark series tools made today. The difference between the Model 10's and the Mark series tools is the side of the Headstock the spring is on.
Do check the inside end of the spring for damage. I had one that was cracked from the end of the keyhole to the end of the spring which would not hold on to the pin as the end would separate. If needed a replacement Spring can be purchased from Shopsmith and does come installed in the Housing. The Spring is not available separately when an OEM Spring is purchased new.
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Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.