I am contemplating building a bed or my daughter( Brand new Mrs. and MD!) This is my first shot at starting with unfinished lumber. I have 2 questions, for now at least.
1. Several componants are required to be 6in wide, to wide for my jointer. Should I run these down to a commercial shop to have one face trued up, or rip them, face them on my SS joiner and glue them up. I have a thickness planer. These are the bed rails.
2. The rails call for 1X6 finished stock. My supply is 1X8 rough stock. Can I replace the 1X6 finished stock with a 3/4 X 7 1/2. Plans seem to have nothing that would make that a problem. cross section of the two is close to the same.
rough cut lumber questions.
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Hi dbristol! You ask difficult questions, to which you may receive various answers.
Your question #1. - - It is entirely up to you if you want to take these boards to another wood shop. Another consideration depends on the quality of the rough lumber. It is my guess that the longest board you will need is about 7 feet. If your rough lumber is longer than that, I would select the straightest, non-deformed sections of the boards and cross cut them out of your lumber. I think you'd only need two or three of these. (I'm thinking of small braces/cleats for the inside of the bed rails, but you may be able to get by with two - using the extra width for these braces/cleats.) (But probably over thinking my answer.)
In my small shop, I would be inclined to first run these (Rail boards) through the planer- taking small bites - just enough to smooth the two faces. Then provided there is no appreciable twist or warp (guessing that all cup would be removed by now) I'd cross cut to appropriate length (plus a couple of inches) and joint one edge. Next, I'd run through the planer again, on edge- this time planing the rough edge. It would be best to do these edge passes with both boards at the same time. Then I'd plane the faces to the correct width.
Always leaving a bit of extra width and length for final planing/and cross cutting.
#2. -- Yes you can always replace plans with other sizes, so long as your project can be made to compensate for the changes. However you said you have a planer, with this tool you can make the width of a board to the nearest 1/64" depending on how accurate you can read you caliper or tape.
P.S. I wanted you to know that a LOT of time is taken in my shop to select the parts of a board that will be the best for a piece in the project. Never ever let yourself fall into the trap that we have to use a board as it came from the tree. Sometimes it is even necessary to angle cut a board out of a larger board for purposes of grain orientation. But you first need to be able to see the grain flow. Have to plane down a rough board in order to see this.
Your question #1. - - It is entirely up to you if you want to take these boards to another wood shop. Another consideration depends on the quality of the rough lumber. It is my guess that the longest board you will need is about 7 feet. If your rough lumber is longer than that, I would select the straightest, non-deformed sections of the boards and cross cut them out of your lumber. I think you'd only need two or three of these. (I'm thinking of small braces/cleats for the inside of the bed rails, but you may be able to get by with two - using the extra width for these braces/cleats.) (But probably over thinking my answer.)
In my small shop, I would be inclined to first run these (Rail boards) through the planer- taking small bites - just enough to smooth the two faces. Then provided there is no appreciable twist or warp (guessing that all cup would be removed by now) I'd cross cut to appropriate length (plus a couple of inches) and joint one edge. Next, I'd run through the planer again, on edge- this time planing the rough edge. It would be best to do these edge passes with both boards at the same time. Then I'd plane the faces to the correct width.
Always leaving a bit of extra width and length for final planing/and cross cutting.
#2. -- Yes you can always replace plans with other sizes, so long as your project can be made to compensate for the changes. However you said you have a planer, with this tool you can make the width of a board to the nearest 1/64" depending on how accurate you can read you caliper or tape.
P.S. I wanted you to know that a LOT of time is taken in my shop to select the parts of a board that will be the best for a piece in the project. Never ever let yourself fall into the trap that we have to use a board as it came from the tree. Sometimes it is even necessary to angle cut a board out of a larger board for purposes of grain orientation. But you first need to be able to see the grain flow. Have to plane down a rough board in order to see this.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
With a pair of winding sticks, a long straightedge, and a #4 or #5 hand plane I can quickly true up a board in preparation for running it through the planer. This really works. You don't have to plane the whole surface smooth, just remove the twist and knock off the high spots.
I now use my Shopsmith jointer only for jointing edges for gluing. By setting a heavy duty roller stand true and level with the outfeed table, I've been able to joint and glue boards 103" long.
I now use my Shopsmith jointer only for jointing edges for gluing. By setting a heavy duty roller stand true and level with the outfeed table, I've been able to joint and glue boards 103" long.
Winding sticks needn't be anything fancy. I have a couple of straight sticks about 3/4"x3/4" x 36". They can easily be made from scrap.
I clamp my rough board on a bench surface, place the winding sticks on both ends and then look down the surface of the board. If the sticks are parallel, the board is straight. If they are not parallel, I mark the high corners with a soft pencil and hand plane the high corners on the ends. I keep checking with the winding sticks, moving them toward each other and again marking and planing until the sticks are parallel the entire length.
"Cup" can be addressed by seeing how the board sits on the flat bench surface. If it is sitting on the ends with the middle high off the surface I usually plane the ends first until the board sits flat. You could also turn it over and plane the middle where it is high, or a combination of both if working on one side only will make the board too thin.
This is a good and useful skill to learn. A jointer is not the ultimate panacia. With the jointer you can still get cup in and cup out, or twist in and twist out.
I clamp my rough board on a bench surface, place the winding sticks on both ends and then look down the surface of the board. If the sticks are parallel, the board is straight. If they are not parallel, I mark the high corners with a soft pencil and hand plane the high corners on the ends. I keep checking with the winding sticks, moving them toward each other and again marking and planing until the sticks are parallel the entire length.
"Cup" can be addressed by seeing how the board sits on the flat bench surface. If it is sitting on the ends with the middle high off the surface I usually plane the ends first until the board sits flat. You could also turn it over and plane the middle where it is high, or a combination of both if working on one side only will make the board too thin.
This is a good and useful skill to learn. A jointer is not the ultimate panacia. With the jointer you can still get cup in and cup out, or twist in and twist out.
For use of winding sticks - see Drew's interludes in this sawdust session. http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... _Index.htmshydragon wrote:What are winding sticks and how are they used in this operation?
BTW - 8iowa's posts above were well said!
A method to remove slight cup is to use the thickness planer. By placing the two high edges of the board down - plane off just a small amount of the high center of the board. Light cuts are necessary so the planer doesn't push the board flat in the process. In several (maybe more) passes the high center of the board is made flat. Now you can turn the board over and flatten the other side.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
thanks
Thanks guys. lots to think about, and good info. I think I will get the wood out again and look it over with your suggestions in mind. With the mission style in mind, I know I'll want to pick out some nicer wood for the head and foot boards. everything other than the rails will be done on SS machine for sure. Thanks alot.
Ideas and suggestions worked!!
Just thought I would let you know that I started on the bed. I am working on the post right now. I did all the checking and found my jointer and planer are working fine. I was able to get nice flat pieces ripped and squared up for the posts. I left plenty of extra stock to work with. More than I will need I think, but better to much than to little. I started the planing with 1/64 in bites. It seemed to be excessive, until I got to one of the more cupped boards and then your wisdom really showed. Next step is to get the rest of the smaller pieces going. I decided to buy some better stock for the rails. I am taking pictures as I go, so maybe I will have a bed to show you some time in the next 6 weeks. Thanks again guys!!:D 
Bet we would knot mind pics for the progress.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob