Shopsmith Forums

I’ve been looking at this switch, if I don’t find an original before final assembly, https://www.amazon.com/Taiss-Universal- ... cx_mi&th=1
I can make a nice cover plate but of course would prefer original though I know an unlikely find.
Thanks for the info!

That '8 terminal' switch can be wired for direction control but will not include power on/off. A 12 terminal version will I think will solve that.

Been here before!

https://www.amazon.com/Taiss-Changeover ... th=1&psc=1

Thanks, I know just enough electrically to be dangerous. I'm having the motor refurbished and part of the scope of work is new switching. I'll pass this on when he agrees to that portion of work. I also asked for an original but you know how that will go...

Mike wrote: ↑Mon Aug 08, 2022 5:01 pm 5. Cam clutch assembly parts 4,5,6,7 in parts breakdown from manual
Other than item #5 I don’t believe I’m missing anything I can’t find a work around on or need to start it up. Not even sure if item 5 is 100% necessary but need to learn more about it.
Thanks for the assistance!

Sorry Mike, you are talking about the cam clutch assembly, correct? I don't think they are 100% necessary. The Mark 5's don't have this feature. It allows you to quickly disengage the rack feed gear so you can manually slide the headstock along the waytubes without the need to crank the handle. Are the white plastic gear racks on the inner waytube in good shape? If the racks are in good shape, and you are interested, I could probably make these parts for you. No charge, I have the materials, just shipping. Seems simple enough.

Mike -

[/quote]

Sorry Mike, you are talking about the cam clutch assembly, correct? I don't think they are 100% necessary. The Mark 5's don't have this feature. It allows you to quickly disengage the rack feed gear so you can manually slide the headstock along the waytubes without the need to crank the handle. Are the white plastic gear racks on the inner waytube in good shape? If the racks are in good shape, and you are interested, I could probably make these parts for you. No charge, I have the materials, just shipping. Seems simple enough.

Mike -
[/quote]

Yes Mike, the cam clutch assembly. If I can’t find the original parts by journeys end, I would greatly appreciate your offer to fabricate the parts. Of course I will gladly pay for them or work out a trade whatever works best. Thank you for the very kind offer.

Mike wrote: ↑Mon Aug 15, 2022 9:03 pm Yes Mike, the cam clutch assembly. If I can’t find the original parts by journeys end, I would greatly appreciate your offer to fabricate the parts. Of course I will gladly pay for them or work out a trade whatever works best. Thank you for the very kind offer.

Sounds good Mike, and good luck with the rebuild.

My backup headstock is also missing these parts, so I am going to consider this a trial run and see if I can make them anyway, and if they actually work. I was able to produce the cam shaft pretty easily (see picture), and the handle shouldn't be much of a problem (though it obviously wont look the same as original), but the face plate/bushing has a odd angle offset built into it to keep the cam shaft parallel to the waytubes while mounted to the sloping metal headstock cover. That may be a bit harder.

Mike -

looks great Mike, you have machinist skills for sure. I have an engineering background but trying to learn the practical, fun, part in my later years. There are so many talented people on this forum.

Thought I’d put up some rust removal pics- the rust was by far the heaviest I have come across and I ended up with a lot of minor cavitation? Not sure if that’s the right word. I used 180, 220, 320, 400, 600 and it still is a little mottled.
The lathe set up was one of the scariest I’ve ever done. Stayed on side and on/ off quick to test but it was amazingly stable at lowest speed. I used a couple ideas and guidance from others on this forum, so thank you very much. Rubber adhesive backed wrapped end to protect metal and chuck and Johnson wax was for lubing plywood. Everything was smooth and nothing got hot. 3 more to go but still debating the tube with the rack.

I am not condoning or recommending this set up, those with more experience please speak up if I got it wrong. If you are a newbie like me ask the experts on this forum.

The last pic is the back in the day price for Johnson Wax.

Do not worry about the pits(cavatation). Apply Penetrol to stop further rusting in de holes and polish the surface. Last month I paid less fer de last can of JPW at an Ace store.

I would recommend a soft connection of the tube to the chuck. Wrap sheet rubber around the tube before clamping into the chuck.

Us el cheapo types use a rubber core plug as a quill to tube connector.

JPG wrote: ↑Wed Aug 17, 2022 12:44 am Do not worry about the pits(cavatation). Apply Penetrol to stop further rusting in de holes and polish the surface. Last month I paid less fer de last can of JPW at an Ace store.

I would recommend a soft connection of the tube to the chuck. Wrap sheet rubber around the tube before clamping into the chuck.

Us el cheapo types use a rubber core plug as a quill to tube connector.

Thanks JPG
Amazon JPW was 37.00, just checked local Ace and 8.99, pays to shop, thanks for reminding me. I have some adhesive backed 1/16” thick rubber I’m using on another Shopsmith project and it worked pretty well. Still not sure if I want to remove rack. Did you just drill out the metal screws?