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Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

Mike

Almost completely broken down and JPG’s restoration thread was a lifesaver. Bearings were a bit.h to get off, everything else not so bad. Missing a few parts but nothing affecting basic operation. Motor sent out for rebuild as needed. Lots of elbow grease needed and JPG’s assembly drawings.

JPG

Beware! assembly does not currently include lower assembly(box, casters etc.)

Mike

No worries, for me that’s probably the easier part and the area I can have more fun with.

miken

Hi Mike, curious if you have the A.O. Smith (C48L2A10) motor, or the General Electric. Also, if you would share what is included in the motor rebuild, just cleanup and bearings, or do they rewind and replace the leads as well? Good to see another Mark VII on the road to recovery.

Thanks, Mike -

Mike

Hi Mike- what I get and what I asked for could be 2 different things. It’s a GE and I asked for new bearings, relay, the black tube thing, any wiring, an original switch if available or a switch that can provide forward/ off/ reverse function and I’ll make a custom plate and anything else that will make it as “like new” as possible. So everything and the kitchen sink in a perfect world but we know that will not be the case.

I noticed in your sig line you have a back up VII or parts. I’m missing a few parts if you have some available?

I’m really starting to appreciate this machine and the design. At 1st glance I didn’t know what to think but now I’m scratching my head in a positive way.

miken

Hi Mike, I have been down the same road. My journey started here: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=24293

Maybe there is some info that can help you, especially regarding the switch. I was able to fix my original Shopsmith switch, at least temporarily, but it's still working fine so far, and I do have a backup now. However, before fixing my switch I was considering the Taiss, Universal 3 position switch. There's a link to it in the post I linked to above. JPG was a huge help to me, as were many others. Great people here. My original A.O. Smith motor was in rough shape. The leads were pretty bad, but I replaced what I could and it's been running great ever since. What parts are you missing? Sorry, I dont have much I'd be willing to let go.

Mike -

Mike

Hi Mike- been reading all the links and copied almost everything, with regards to disassembly, that JPG has put up. Will do same with reassembly when I get there. Your posts, JPG’s and many others are so very helpful and I thank everyone for all of the knowledge and kindness that’s been offered. Thank you for info on the switch and I read the back and forth on that so can make an educated decision down the road. Hope to find an original but can make a nice cover plate if not.

Other stuff I’m looking for at present:

1. Switchkey lock

2. Back cover of vacuum box

3. Vacuum bag and hose- though may never use them

4. Front cover of vacuum box if it has a good decal, or decal might be available?

5. Cam clutch assembly parts 4,5,6,7 in parts breakdown from manual

Other than item #5 I don’t believe I’m missing anything I can’t find a work around on or need to start it up. Not even sure if item 5 is 100% necessary but need to learn more about it.

Thanks for the assistance!

JPG

Switchkey lock ?????

Mike

LOL, I don’t know, the switch with the key below? Fingers faster than my brain sometimes

JPG

A 3 or 4pdt center off toggle switch can replace the original switchkey lock.

Or a dpdt AND a dpst or spst switch pair.

Not perfect, but usable. The original switch with key interlock provides delay when switching direction. thus allowing motor to coast down during on/off/on sequence.

The direction is only determined during off to on sequence.

Flipping the single switch from fwd to rev(or vice versa) too fast will NOT reverse rotation unless the start switch has had time to cycle down to stopped postion.

A downside to the single toggle switch is it will not provide a fail safe effective panic stop function.

Mike

I’ve been looking at this switch, if I don’t find an original before final assembly, https://www.amazon.com/Taiss-Universal-Changeover-Terminals-Connection/dp/B08GS1C343/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=BNi8P&content-id=amzn1.sym.8cf3b8ef-6a74-45dc-9f0d-6409eb523603&pf_rd_p=8cf3b8ef-6a74-45dc-9f0d-6409eb523603&pf_rd_r=PG6J5QSMFVSZMDF3PV8S&pd_rd_wg=pMmun&pd_rd_r=a2e0d394-913a-4cac-ab3b-706ecea0f5b2&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mi&th=1

I can make a nice cover plate but of course would prefer original though I know an unlikely find.

Thanks for the info!

JPG

That '8 terminal' switch can be wired for direction control but will not include power on/off. A 12 terminal version will I think will solve that.

Been here before!

https://www.amazon.com/Taiss-Changeover-Terminals-Universal-Waterproof/dp/B09PDMV8Y8?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

Mike

Thanks, I know just enough electrically to be dangerous. I'm having the motor refurbished and part of the scope of work is new switching. I'll pass this on when he agrees to that portion of work. I also asked for an original but you know how that will go...

miken

Mike wrote
Cam clutch assembly parts 4,5,6,7 in parts breakdown from manual

Other than itemGeneral Woodworking I don’t believe I’m missing anything I can’t find a work around on or need to start it up. Not even sure if item 5 is 100% necessary but need to learn more about it.

Thanks for the assistance!

Sorry Mike, you are talking about the cam clutch assembly, correct? I don't think they are 100% necessary. The Mark 5's don't have this feature. It allows you to quickly disengage the rack feed gear so you can manually slide the headstock along the waytubes without the need to crank the handle. Are the white plastic gear racks on the inner waytube in good shape? If the racks are in good shape, and you are interested, I could probably make these parts for you. No charge, I have the materials, just shipping. Seems simple enough.

Mike -

Mike

[/quote]

Sorry Mike, you are talking about the cam clutch assembly, correct? I don't think they are 100% necessary. The Mark 5's don't have this feature. It allows you to quickly disengage the rack feed gear so you can manually slide the headstock along the waytubes without the need to crank the handle. Are the white plastic gear racks on the inner waytube in good shape? If the racks are in good shape, and you are interested, I could probably make these parts for you. No charge, I have the materials, just shipping. Seems simple enough.

Mike -

[/quote]

Yes Mike, the cam clutch assembly. If I can’t find the original parts by journeys end, I would greatly appreciate your offer to fabricate the parts. Of course I will gladly pay for them or work out a trade whatever works best. Thank you for the very kind offer.

miken

Mike wrote
Yes Mike, the cam clutch assembly. If I can’t find the original parts by journeys end, I would greatly appreciate your offer to fabricate the parts. Of course I will gladly pay for them or work out a trade whatever works best. Thank you for the very kind offer.

Sounds good Mike, and good luck with the rebuild.

My backup headstock is also missing these parts, so I am going to consider this a trial run and see if I can make them anyway, and if they actually work. I was able to produce the cam shaft pretty easily (see picture), and the handle shouldn't be much of a problem (though it obviously wont look the same as original), but the face plate/bushing has a odd angle offset built into it to keep the cam shaft parallel to the waytubes while mounted to the sloping metal headstock cover. That may be a bit harder.

Mike -

Mike

looks great Mike, you have machinist skills for sure. I have an engineering background but trying to learn the practical, fun, part in my later years. There are so many talented people on this forum.

Mike

Thought I’d put up some rust removal pics- the rust was by far the heaviest I have come across and I ended up with a lot of minor cavitation? Not sure if that’s the right word. I used 180, 220, 320, 400, 600 and it still is a little mottled.

The lathe set up was one of the scariest I’ve ever done. Stayed on side and on/ off quick to test but it was amazingly stable at lowest speed. I used a couple ideas and guidance from others on this forum, so thank you very much. Rubber adhesive backed wrapped end to protect metal and chuck and Johnson wax was for lubing plywood. Everything was smooth and nothing got hot. 3 more to go but still debating the tube with the rack.

I am not condoning or recommending this set up, those with more experience please speak up if I got it wrong. If you are a newbie like me ask the experts on this forum.

The last pic is the back in the day price for Johnson Wax.

JPG

Do not worry about the pits(cavatation). Apply Penetrol to stop further rusting in de holes and polish the surface. Last month I paid less fer de last can of JPW at an Ace store.

I would recommend a soft connection of the tube to the chuck. Wrap sheet rubber around the tube before clamping into the chuck.

Us el cheapo types use a rubber core plug as a quill to tube connector.

Mike

JPG wrote Do not worry about the pits(cavatation). Apply Penetrol to stop further rusting in de holes and polish the surface. Last month I paid less fer de last can of JPW at an Ace store.

I would recommend a soft connection of the tube to the chuck. Wrap sheet rubber around the tube before clamping into the chuck.

Us el cheapo types use a rubber core plug as a quill to tube connector.

Thanks JPG

Amazon JPW was 37.00, just checked local Ace and 8.99, pays to shop, thanks for reminding me. I have some adhesive backed 1/16” thick rubber I’m using on another Shopsmith project and it worked pretty well. Still not sure if I want to remove rack. Did you just drill out the metal screws?