Shopsmith Forums

Installed shim, would rather not use unless absolutely needed, cut stem till bottoms out in piston.
With these casters will need to remove some of the front boot, wheel is still extended a bit past boot when fully retracted. At least sides of boot appear to clear wheel.

One thing that has not been suggested. Extend the "bottom" of the 'foot 0.300+'. That eliminates stem shortening. 5/16" comes to mind.

Regardless I think adding a sleeve to eliminate stem wobble in the piston bore will reduce the tendency of the piston to fracture.

Do I recall correctly that the caster clears the interior face(opposite side being altered). If so by how much?

Maybe we need to consider reducing the od of the wheels at their outer edges?

Also, keep in mind, the closer the wheel axle is to the swivel rotation axis the stronger the wheel will be, and better able to support the added weight. It will also have less bending moment on the stem and less likely to crack the stem bushing (piston thing) which is already under designed in my opinion. Your wheel axle is a bolt with nut end. Take the wheel off and sand it down 1/2 inch. If that doesn't work, try moving the wheel axle.

Reducing the wheel diameter 1/2 inch will allow you to also move the wheel up 1/2 inch, and at least 1/4 inch closer to the swivel rotation center.

Mike

If you get too close to the swivel rotation center they won't swivel easily (or not at all) when you try to change directions. After all that is why they are off set to begin with.

JPG- about 3/8” clear wheel to interior
Far more wiggle on outside face of piston and I can shim that, also lots of slop in the bearings
Plan on adding bar stock on each end for stabilization and a continuous foot
Miken- if I removed the 1/4 to 1/2” diameter off wheel, probably no need to move the axel which could work. Just not quite there yet, still leaning towards a permanent fix if I can find one to live with. I believe the axel is placed away from centerline of stem to aid in swivel/turning so probably can’t change that.
Gonna pull off this and work on other assemblies

jsburger wrote: ↑Tue Sep 20, 2022 8:03 pm If you get too close to the swivel rotation center they won't swivel easily (or not at all) when you try to change directions. After all that is why they are off set to begin with.

Very true. The original wheels have an offset of 3/8. Wouldn't suggest getting closer than that.

Mike

Mike wrote: ↑Tue Sep 20, 2022 8:09 pm . . . Plan on adding bar stock on each end for stabilization and a continuous foot . . .

Interesting, one of my Mark VII's has individual feet, and one has a single continuous foot that ties both frame rails together. Sounds similar to what your shooting for.

Mike

miken wrote: ↑Tue Sep 20, 2022 9:46 pm

Mike wrote: ↑Tue Sep 20, 2022 8:09 pm . . . Plan on adding bar stock on each end for stabilization and a continuous foot . . .

Interesting, one of my Mark VII's has individual feet, and one has a single continuous foot that ties both frame rails together. Sounds similar to what your shooting for.

Mike

LOL yes that’s exactly the concept I’m looking to replicate. Not sure why the individual feet? Mine had a piece of angle holding feet together at each end. With issues I’m having, and remedies I’m considering, maybe some 3/8-1/2” x 4-6” high aluminum or steel across the front will play well.

Got a little done today, a vision of casters dancing in my head. All things considered I like the main color. Using stainless steel SHCS wherever I can with lock nuts.