Shopsmith Forums

RandyO,

Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum. The Owner's Guide being Feb 52 is probably the best indication as to when it was made if it is its original guide. The next Owner's Guide date was Sept 52. In the meantime, cleaning it up, removing the WD-40 and getting the bare metal parts waxed will have you off to a good start. I would recommend starting your own thread to keep questions and information for your Shopsmith Model 10ER in one place.

as I posted, still have to go thru box of attachments, it's setup now as a disk sander, needs a belt fer sure, possibly motor too, belts were making so much noise, could't hear the motor but it wasn't silent, there was at least a detectable whir, motor is ½hp

Motors are supposed to 'whir'.

Bad motor is highly unlikely.

Very nice looking Model 10!(no E)

JPG wrote: ↑Sun Nov 20, 2022 8:29 pm Motors are supposed to 'whir'.

Bad motor is highly unlikely.

Very nice looking Model 10!(no E)

only thinkin on the motor in my Dewalt that sounded ok (slight whir) but bogged down in thicker cuts and hardwood, I put new bearings & brushes in it, and back to full power, and dead silent without a blade

I was not referring to a universal motor(with brushes).

RandyO,

The picture tells me a lot about your new-to-you Model 10E. It was likely made in 1948 but not 1952. It should say Model 10E on the Logo Plate as well as having the serial number.

The motor is the common 1/2 HP motor found on them. I have had a lot of these motors on Model 10E and 10ER Shopsmiths I have restored. None of them were bad although I have replaced bearings in a couple of them. These motors seem to run forever. Clean the dust out and you will want to replace the cord if original.

It appears that this Model 10E was put on that bench at a later time than when purchased as it looks like the 2" x 8' Boards are 57" long instead of 60" long the correct length for earlier Model 10's with the larger Base and 4 bolt Headrest. They probably followed the instructions for mounting a Model 10ER that has the shorter Base and 2 Bolt Headrest. That is the reason the Way Tubes extend so long out the Headrest end. Not having the Retractable Casters, a previous owner has built a wheeled wood base for it to sit on. This can make the Shopsmith sit too high for some operations to be done comfortably. If it works for you great if not you could remove it from the wood base and add the original Retractable Casters or newer options for casters.

I am glad to see you have an Owner's Guide for it although it is a later one for the Model 10ER. Some things will be different in that manual when compared to the parts on your Model 10E. There is an earlier Owner's Guide available as a PDF through this website. Look under the Maintenance and Repair section for Shopsmith Large Format Drawings, Illustrations and More by Everett Davis. This will be one of the first four topics and is linked below. In it you will find a wealth of information on the Shopsmith tools. Some are directly linked there and others are on “My Google Drive” with documents too large to be directly linked. Everett has become the Shopsmith historian by saving and restoring manuals and other documents. On his Google Drive you will find 10E & 10ER which in that file group has a restored copy of a Model 10E Owner's Guide on the top row right side.

viewtopic.php?t=16113

One of the changes that was made to the Model 10's was going from the Wood Extension Table, which you should have based on the Tailstock, to the Metal Extension Table. This will also be one of the differences in a Model 10ER Owner's Guide compared to a Model 10E Owner's Guide for both operations and parts.

The picture below is a Model 10E I restored to give you a reference as to how it looks and the parts they originally came with. These were sold without a bench and the option of with or without a motor.

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Like the one above yours has the second version of the Headstock and the later Gauge Collar on the Quill unlike the one above. Already a plus for you. Something to keep in mind if you need parts, some can be replaced individually while others have to be replaced as an assembly. Many of the parts were the same throughout the production of the Model 10's from 1947 through 1953 while others had more than 1 version, like the Headstock which had 7 versions.

I am overwhelmed with joy to have found this Forum with all the experienced artisans. This past summer I was gifted two old, very rusty Shopsmith's, one is a 10E and the other is a 10ER. I just recently purchased a new workshop to move them into and have begun removing rust, assembling and buying missing pieces like the drill Chuck (need so many other small pieces to make these machines work. I started with the 10E and have it operational (still so much restoration work to do), but the wiring going to in inside the motor is old and cracking, and don't incorporate a ground wire; so, I'm looking for any information to help restore and upgrade the two motors I have (1/2hp & 3/4hp). I really have my work cut out since these machines were previously owned by a carpenter/fisherman who lived in a small seaside town, and I suspect one may have been flooded by saltwater during a hurricane flood.

O1dSeafarer,

Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum.

As you go through the Model 10E and Model 10ER you will notice some differences. Depending on when each was made there may be small differences and/or major differences. The serial numbers would give an approximate time of when each was made. Some parts remained the same throughout the production of the Shopsmith Model 10E & 10ER. It will be important to get the correct replacement parts needed for each. Some parts are not individually interchangeable. They do share common accessories that attach to the Quill's Spindle like the Drill Chuck. The Model 10's can even use most current Arbors, Chucks and Spindles.

The picture in my post above shows a Model 10E I restored likely made in the beginning of 1948. Even at serial number 4708 it already had changes from the first Model 10E's made. Both the Headstock and Tailstock are the second version.

I replace the old wiring and even the switch when restoring Model 10's and add the ground. Depending on the motor some are easier to replace while others are a bit more difficult. Some motors have terminals behind the cover plate so attaching a new power cord is simple. Other motors have the power cord spliced to the wires inside the motor housing. These have to be cut and the new power cord spliced in. As for the ground I usually put a ring terminal on the end and connect it under one of the screws holding the cover plate on. The picture below shows a motor that has the terminals for connecting the power cord to.

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O1dSeafarer,

I would recommend starting your own thread to keep information directly related to your Model 10E and 10ER in one place.

Russ, Thank you very much for your reply. I will start my own thread; I was so excited to find one with the same title I wanted "Just got a 10E", so I will be a little more original in my next post, which will include serial numbers and some photos. I was planning on rebuilding my machines regardless of help, but I am over the moon having found this wonderful and currently active group. My new post will be coming soon, this week. So many projects, so little time for father time... me. LOL. Dan (O1dSeafarer)