Shopsmith Forums

I have successfully jigsawed with my 10er in the past, but now it seems there is a disconnect between the motor and connector to the jigsaw lower chuck. The belt is working fine, so it's not the motor - but something is amiss. If anyone has an idea, please have a look at this uploaded video.

]https://youtu.be/-QHlUDLa3gI

Can it be as simple as the tightening screw on the flexible coupling needs replacing?

What the video doesn't show is how well the Drive Sleeve and Quill Shaft are turning. I would start there. If the Headstock is the culprit, the belt is slipping. The belt could also slip if there is too much resistance in the drive parts including the Headstocks and the Jig Saw. I would get a few drops of lightweight oil on the moving parts inside the Jig Saws housing in addition to oil added to the flip top oil hole. If the Quill's Spindle turns evenly the Coupler may be slipping on the Spindle or Jig Saw's drive shaft. The last possible culprit would be the set screw that attaches the Crank Link Assembly to the Lower Chuck Assembly inside the Jig Saws Housing.

Plot thickens: I found I was able to turn the Shopsmith on low speed and hold (very safely!) the spindle still. The pulleys and headstock kept going. I didn't do it long at all, and suspect something more serious and internal.

You said you were able to hold the Spindle still, but the Pulleys kept turning. If the Drive Sleeve Assembly Pulley kept turning instead of the Belt slipping on it, I would suspect the Set Screw for the Drive Sleeve Assembly Pulley is not tightened properly allowing the Pulley to turn on the Shaft. Did you happen to notice if the Drive Shaft was turning with the Pulley or not turning? The picture below shows the Drive Shaft from an early 10E. The flat spot is where the Pulley's Set Screw should be tightened against. The length of the flat spot on the Drive Shaft will vary somewhat depending on when your Model 10 was made.

_ .
The only way the Quill's Spindle could be slipping with the Drive Sleeve Assembly turning is the Quill would have to be extended to the point where the Spindle begins to disengage from the end of the Shaft of the Drive Sleeve Assembly.

Russ:

OK, so I took the pulley off and then took the opportunity to pull the quill out as well to check to see if anything was amiss. It looked clear so I tried to reassemble using Skip's tutorial:

https://youtu.be/1MbGbefGFDQ?t=674

I re-inserted the quill and aligned the pinion gears, inserting it an inch and a half - then rotated the spindle until the drive teeth were aligned with the drive shaft and continued cranking it back in. Halfway though, the handle stopped feeding it back in and seemed stuck on something I wasn't comfortable forcing.

I looked through to see if any debris had settled through the shaft - even pushing a small rag all the way through the drive teeth in the drive pulley housing. I also checked for stopping debris by inserting the quill (drive teeth first) through the back and it went all the way in. I am thinking it's time to take more apart and check, but before I do -- any ideas?


Scott

I've taken point to investigate by pulling out the drive pulley housing and quill and decided - what the heck - start cleaning everything involved here. I really haven't done much cleaning with my 10er since I bought it a over a year ago, and I'm getting comfortable enough to have a go.

First thing was the gummed up headstock inner bore - hard sawdust crust had accumulated to the point where it needed a wire brushing -

Next stop was to clean up the quill and handles


and the last step is to clean the pinion shaft and quill housing with its serious sawdust packing -- it also looks like the spring has also come off the retaining nub.

So I'll buy some locking pliers tomorrow and finish this off, I'll update with progress.

The cleanup looks good. In the last picture above the end of the Quill Return Spring looks a little bent where it attaches to the pin on the Pinion Shaft. Should not be a problem with function once you get it back on the pin. You could try to carefully reshape it if you desire. While you have things apart do the bearings turn smooth and freely on the Drive Sleeve Assembly and the Quill Assembly? If not, you should replace the any bearing that does not turn smooth and freely. After both the Quill and Drive Sleeve Assemblies are cleaned up try inserting the Quill into the Drive Sleeve while still out of the Headstock to check they go together freely. I suspect the Quill did not want to retract all the way because of dust and debris but it is a good time to check the fit anyway.

Russ:

A veteran eye!

Thanks for your input, and following me through this little journey.


1) Tested the current bearings/bushing on the drive sleeve and found them dirty but solid for now. I also took note of the bearings # in case I need to replace them: ND C88505


2) Wire-brushed every piece and applied SC Johnson Paste Wax on the teeth of the quill and a light touch of 3 in 1 machine oil on the rest - I also curled the inner center of the spring a bit more to try and ensure connection with the holding nib as per your advice.


3) Cleaned out the return spring assembly - and the sawdust of ages. Placing the spring back, I made a variant of this wire jig:

https://youtu.be/KQQhq6pBoro

But mine was just a coat-hanger, cut and twisted for strength. Worked OK; gloves, glasses and all.


In the end I learned a whole bunch more about my little 10er just by getting my hands dirty, had a few setbacks but worked through them. I think I earned my Tinkering merit badge along the way. Slowly this 10er dieselpunk beauty gets less arcane and more and more accessible.

Anyway, here's the current look - a few shinier bit and bobs, but this has infected me enough to entertain a restoration perhaps later this summer.


Oh -- and the end of the story? The original problem was the quill didn't go back in because I had the quill stoplock in.

So... that's an entirely different merit badge.



D'oh!

Scott,

It's looking better, shiner and likely works better too. As I already posted in your thread about the Dial Indicator I said

I noticed in your second picture you have the Collar turned around. It should go on first against the Spring Housing to hold it against the Headstock Casting. The Depth Indicator then goes on held in place by the Retaining Ring.

It is also shown in pictures 5 and 6 above. That's an easy fix. Don't feel bad, I have put parts on reversed before even after I know better and ended up scratching my head wondering why it doesn't work right.

With the work you have already done you are well on your way for the complete restoration.

Below is the picture from my post in the Depth Indicator thread showing the correct order.

_

Cheers, Russ - thanks for the tips. I will add your fix to this and the other thread to serve as guidance for future forum travelers.