Shopsmith Forums

I can relate to this problem. I wonder if one of those engraving tools might work? (I'm thinking of the one that looks like a pencil and has a really sharp point).

Paul

If you don't want to try engraving on the bit, when I was in middle school shop class, we made a project that was an electric engraver/etcher. Didn't engrave or cut a groove in the metal as much as it arced/burned the metal and was permanent. I still have wrenches and sockets that I etched with it in the early 70's that look great and still clearly legible. It was easy to build and worked great. It was powered by a small train transformer or a battery charger, anything 12VDC. If any-one's interested, I can whip up a set of plans on how to make one.

Try color coding them. Just dip the clean bit down into paint and wipe off the outside. Hang them up to drip and dry. Don't paint the shanks where it goes into the chuck. Wood clothespins with springs work well to hang them up to dry.
You only need about 4 colors then start over.
If you can't tell a 1/4" bit from a 1/2" bit because they are both red it is time for new glasses...

Unfortunately, a lot of brands of drill bits come this way. I tried this trick and it worked okay for those bits that the engraving is cut deep enough.

I used black water-based acrylic paint and brushed it over the engraving. I let it dry a little, wiped off the extra and the paint stays in the engraving, making the numbers/letters stand out.

I also used this trick on my SS bandsaw so I can read the tension markings. I found those numbers/measurements hard to see too until I used the paint. Now I can see them just fine.

I just can't recommend screwing around with the bits. I know a lot of folks do, but other than polishing the shafts and sharpening, I don't mark them. To solve the problem of identifying bits, I made a simple stand where they are stored. Each of the smaller bits drilled their own hole. Because bits only fit in their own hole, I haven't bothered to mark the wooden stand, but it could be marked to identify sizes. The bits larger than 1/2" can be mixed, but really that is no issue.
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Hi,

You might want to invest in a drill gauge(s). They are useful for more then sizing drills but when your vision isn't as good as it use to be they are a must have.

Pictured at the top is a 61-80 for number drills. Left is a 1 to 60 for numbered drills, center is a 1/16 - 1/2 fractional. The plastic gauge even works fine and it was free from Handyman when they use to try and sign me up...

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Ed

Ever since I purchased my Digital Caliper I don't think I even step into my shop without having it in my pocket. This was one of those tools that I thought I would never use but had to have, now I can't see how I ever got along without it. Every time I pick up a drill bit I check the size instantly with the Caliper.

stew wrote:Ever since I purchased my Digital Caliper I don't think I even step into my shop without having it in my pocket. This was one of those tools that I thought I would never use but had to have, now I can't see how I ever got along without it. Every time I pick up a drill bit I check the size instantly with the Caliper.

Me too! WhenI pick a bit from it's holder I often check with my caliper. Maybe that's why I didn't bother to write the size on the wood satnd.