Setting up my like-new 510... Noticed Miter Bumps when entering the table. What I mean is that once the miter is fully on the table, 9" from the blade, it operates smoothly. if you make a cut greater than 9", then the Miter is off table and bumps over the edge of the table when it reaches the table. Don't see how to correct this. Is this normal?
Nice machine, btw. Have been taking a crash course and amazed with the infinite possibilities! Overwelmed actually...
Shopsmith Newbie - Miter Bump
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racerchris
- Gold Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Fri Apr 10, 2009 11:14 am
The bump you are feeling is probably caused by the adjusting screws called glides, in the bottom of the miter gauge. These are covered with a black substance, rubber like plastic I think. These screws look like bolt heads containing a flat screwdriver slot.
Go gently when adjusting these glides. In fact, it may be best to not do any adjusting until you have replacements. These are part number 270 on this exploded diagram. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/part ... xpview.htm
The stems of these glides are actually a substance that acts like rubber. They are easy to twist off. I did this dastardly deed a while back. I found no metal at all in the shaft of the screw.
Evidently after they have been set for a long time they become stuck. If one breaks off in the hole, it is easy to dig out because it is so soft, but a replacement will cost around $14.
Go gently when adjusting these glides. In fact, it may be best to not do any adjusting until you have replacements. These are part number 270 on this exploded diagram. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/part ... xpview.htm
The stems of these glides are actually a substance that acts like rubber. They are easy to twist off. I did this dastardly deed a while back. I found no metal at all in the shaft of the screw.
Evidently after they have been set for a long time they become stuck. If one breaks off in the hole, it is easy to dig out because it is so soft, but a replacement will cost around $14.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I sounds to me as though you have the fence working right here the edge of the main table - at the ends of the front and rear rails.racerchris wrote:Setting up my like-new 510... Noticed Miter Bumps when entering the table. What I mean is that once the miter is fully on the table, 9" from the blade, it operates smoothly. if you make a cut greater than 9", then the Miter is off table and bumps over the edge of the table when it reaches the table. Don't see how to correct this. Is this normal?
Nice machine, btw. Have been taking a crash course and amazed with the infinite possibilities! Overwelmed actually...
Try installing an extension table snug against the main table on the side where you are having this problem. Does this change the symptoms.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I'm not sure that I have a good visual picture of what you are describing. However, if you have the miter gauge in the track but pulled back so that the face of the gauge is 9" off the table I believe you are using the wrong tool.racerchris wrote:Setting up my like-new 510... Noticed Miter Bumps when entering the table. What I mean is that once the miter is fully on the table, 9" from the blade, it operates smoothly. if you make a cut greater than 9", then the Miter is off table and bumps over the edge of the table when it reaches the table. Don't see how to correct this. Is this normal?
Nice machine, btw. Have been taking a crash course and amazed with the infinite possibilities! Overwelmed actually...
Pulled that far off the table, the miter becomes very inaccurate (and a bit of a hazard) because very little of the miter bar is engaged with the miter track.
I would suggest that it is time to switch to the adjustable cross cut sled.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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racerchris
- Gold Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Fri Apr 10, 2009 11:14 am
Chuck,
Thanks for the reply. I spent the better part of last night setting up the saw. Very interesting procedure. I am so glad I returned the "Greenie" and purchased this one instead. The SS I purchased is in great condition and came with EVERYTHING a new 5in1 tool comes with. In fact, practically all accessories were brand new and sealed. So many of the used ones were missing parts that I would have never realized I needed...
Anyways, squaring the miter was an interesting procedure. My miter seemed to have some corrosion where the miter attaches to the bar. So I took the whole thing apart and polished the bar where it contacts the miter. Now the miter moves freely through all the angles, but it seems the screw turns with the miter which concerns me because it seems like it would come loose with time. Is this normal?
Also, I noticed something different about my miter than what is shown on the exploded diagram. Part 279 which is listed as a "Taper Screw" is missing and in its place is a nut that seems to be locked into the bar. The nut does not have threads, instead it has a 5/32 hex. Am I missing something?
One more thing, I went through the rip fence adjustment. The first step is to loosen the adjusting set screw, but no where in the instructions does it seem to tell me how to properly adjust this set screw... It's not obvious to me the purpose of this set screw.
Thanks! You guys are great!
Thanks for the reply. I spent the better part of last night setting up the saw. Very interesting procedure. I am so glad I returned the "Greenie" and purchased this one instead. The SS I purchased is in great condition and came with EVERYTHING a new 5in1 tool comes with. In fact, practically all accessories were brand new and sealed. So many of the used ones were missing parts that I would have never realized I needed...
Anyways, squaring the miter was an interesting procedure. My miter seemed to have some corrosion where the miter attaches to the bar. So I took the whole thing apart and polished the bar where it contacts the miter. Now the miter moves freely through all the angles, but it seems the screw turns with the miter which concerns me because it seems like it would come loose with time. Is this normal?
Also, I noticed something different about my miter than what is shown on the exploded diagram. Part 279 which is listed as a "Taper Screw" is missing and in its place is a nut that seems to be locked into the bar. The nut does not have threads, instead it has a 5/32 hex. Am I missing something?
One more thing, I went through the rip fence adjustment. The first step is to loosen the adjusting set screw, but no where in the instructions does it seem to tell me how to properly adjust this set screw... It's not obvious to me the purpose of this set screw.
Thanks! You guys are great!
For what it's worth I use a black 6/6 nylon bolt that I cut a straight screw driver slot in to replace the miter gage glides. 5/16x18x1/2 at $10.70 a box of 50. I use several different miter gage setups and the glides are usually worn or missing by the time I get them so this has been an economical way of repairing them.
ldh
ldh
Idh,
What is your source for the nylon bolts?
What is your source for the nylon bolts?
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Leonard
La Vernia, TX
Wood Goods - Custom Woodwork
EMAIL: woodgoods "at" lavernia "dot" net
PowerPro 520, PowerPro 500 (was my father's 500), SS jointer, SS Mark V mount planer, SS bandsaws (2), belt sander, scroll saw, SS jig saws (2), strip sander, Jointech system, 12" Delta Compound Miter Saw, a small collection of routers, a router table and a Delta Unisaw. All in a 24' x 24' shop.
Leonard
La Vernia, TX
Wood Goods - Custom Woodwork
EMAIL: woodgoods "at" lavernia "dot" net
PowerPro 520, PowerPro 500 (was my father's 500), SS jointer, SS Mark V mount planer, SS bandsaws (2), belt sander, scroll saw, SS jig saws (2), strip sander, Jointech system, 12" Delta Compound Miter Saw, a small collection of routers, a router table and a Delta Unisaw. All in a 24' x 24' shop.
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robinson46176
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
racerchris wrote:Also, I noticed something different about my miter than what is shown on the exploded diagram. Part 279 which is listed as a "Taper Screw" is missing and in its place is a nut that seems to be locked into the bar. The nut does not have threads, instead it has a 5/32 hex. Am I missing something?
It sounds to me like the taper screw is there... It is made like that so you can tighten the taper setscrew (which is not very tall) and lock the miter gauge bar in the table slot so it will not slide. Note that the threads in the hole are also tapered. It is just used on a few special setups like as a stop for holding angle when drilling. You could also use the miter gauge as a fence on the old bandsaws that had the extra cross slot in the table
Try the Allen wrench in it to see if it will turn a little. If so then put the miter gauge in the table slot and tighten it to see if it will lock the bar in place. The taper of the setscrew spreads the split center of the bar to make it bind against the sides of the table slot.
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It will all sort out eventually...
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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racerchris
- Gold Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Fri Apr 10, 2009 11:14 am
Ah, that explains what that taper screw is for! and it works! Thanks!robinson46176 wrote:It sounds to me like the taper screw is there... It is made like that so you can tighten the taper setscrew (which is not very tall) and lock the miter gauge bar in the table slot so it will not slide. Note that the threads in the hole are also tapered. It is just used on a few special setups like as a stop for holding angle when drilling. You could also use the miter gauge as a fence on the old bandsaws that had the extra cross slot in the table
Try the Allen wrench in it to see if it will turn a little. If so then put the miter gauge in the table slot and tighten it to see if it will lock the bar in place. The taper of the setscrew spreads the split center of the bar to make it bind against the sides of the table slot.
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It will all sort out eventually...