Shopsmith Forums

My knowledge of washing-machine design has recently undergone an involuntary meteoric increase since the forced retirement of my 1969 Norge and its replacement by a used 2016 Speed Queen (yes this is a Shopsmith-related topic, hold on).

The Speed Queen was filthy, but the brand is highly recommended and the price was right so I bought it for $140. Took the inner tub out (the perforated one that spins around) and found much crud within (in-between this tub and the outer tub - yuck). Also found that the inner tub was mounted on a cast aluminum flange hub that was severely corroded (see pic).

No way was I going to re-use that corroded hub - I will replace it, and I want some kind of protection on the new hub to keep it from also corroding. I am very surprised that a quality brand like Speed Queen would put such a component into severe service without some corrosion protection.

Bought a lovely new hub and solvent-cleaned it. OD had some ragged flashing so I used my trusty Shopsmith and my Nova G3 chuck to lathe-sand the hub (see pics). Next step is to apply corrosion protection - but not paint, and not "black oxide".

I cannot find a better protection for cast aluminum in a severe wet environment than anodizing. Local shop wants $150 + to do it.

I would like anyone on this forum to share their experience with the anodizing of aluminum parts, either home-brew or through a finishing shop. Has anyone here found any advantages to anodizing Shopsmith components?

We used Alodine conversion coating when I worked for the USAF repairing aircraft generators.Hamilton Sunstrand the OEM of many of the generators used the same thing.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromate_ ... on_coating

Anodized hub arrived, and installed. Anodized per MIL-A-8625 Type II Class 1.This is a clear anodize, and less thick than Type III "hard" anodize. I chose Type II because I did not want to risk using the thicker Type III and then have problems with thread and spline clearances. $125 from Maryland Plating and Servicing Inc. Photos below.

The anodizing process creates a porous surface structure, which is then filled/sealed with nickel acetate, thus providing the anti-corrosion surface.

Alodine maybe would have been a sufficient anti-corrosion process for this application, but I guessed that MIL anodizing would hold up better in a hot/wet environment. Time will tell.

I also did some component dismantling/cleaning and seal replacements in addition to replace the hub. My hat is off to all appliance repairmen. Brutal work. I look forward to never having to work on another washing machine again, which is why I bought a Speed Queen, and why I anodized the hub. I want this machine to last as long as my Shopsmith.

Steve,

And I thought I was hardcore on appliance repair in my house! Kudos on that repair and I hope it lasts you a long, long time. Never thought about going to this kind of an extent on appliance repair. I don't think I could back to a vertical unit though. Once you switch to front loaders, it is hard to go back. My Whirlpool Duet manufactured in 2005 is still going strong, but it has been repaired several times by me. Washers and dryers are a pain to work on, but dishwashers are the absolute worst.

This is pretty cool reading!
My nephew has a side-hustle making niche automotive aftermarket parts. I think they use a lot of anodizing. Luckily, his catalog doesn't address my car, or I'd be an addicted buyer for these shiny, red things.