Greenie motor replacement?

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Tue May 05, 2009 10:46 pm

I have a friend who has been inspired by my two 10ER restorations to get a Shopsmith of his own to restore. He's looking for used and has the possible opportunity to pick up a "Greenie" with a jointer, jigsaw and some other accessories. But there are two potential problems (or maybe they're part of the same problem?). One, according to the seller the motor smokes when he tries to turn it on. The second is what the seller describes as a "spring-pullie" thing that's broken. Here is the picture the seller provided of the "spring-pullie thing":

Since my experience is with the 10ER exclusively, I can't really give my friend any advice at this point. Can anyone share their advice? Should he pass on this and keep looking for a working unit? Is this relatively easy to repair? If so, how much would the parts cost and does anybody have used ones to offer?

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Tue May 05, 2009 10:51 pm

Heath,
Question 1. How much $$$$

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Tue May 05, 2009 11:08 pm

mickyd wrote:Heath,
Question 1. How much $$$$

It's currently on "the bay" but local to him. I didn't want to violate rules by linking to it or anything. Current "price" is $99. Are you thinking get it for parts while still being on the lookout for a working unit?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue May 05, 2009 11:44 pm

Hard to really tell from the pix, but it appears the motor sheave pulley IS normal(the floating sheave appears to be pushed up against the fan sheave as would be expected if the belt is loose as shown.
Why is the belt loose? Not good news. Probably because the control sheave is pulled apart further than 'normal' and the belt is down on the shaft?????
Not known is the status of the speed control/quadrant gear. It may be broken or severely bent. Keep in mind the speed control parts comments are at this point guesses. Pulling the speed control dial and speed control so as to peek inside would be prudent if possible(that way you have a rough idea of WHAT may need to be replaced). At $99 it is viable in spite of the apparent rust. Interesting rusting of waytubes on the bottom?

The sellers pix on e-bay do not present a good image. Interesting that the table carriage is sitting on TOP of the way tubes! The tarp full of accessories are also full of rust. The 'bandsaw' is really an early jig saw. Ok if seals are intact(maybe).

If it stays at $99 picking it up may be a GOOD idea(assuming your friend understands the process of 'restoring' it and does not expect too much with little effort.

Not mentioned above is the(REMOTE) possibility the idler shaft bearings/bearing mounts are 'broken'. More likely are control sheave/quadrant problem(s).

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Tue May 05, 2009 11:54 pm

heathicus wrote:It's currently on "the bay" but local to him. I didn't want to violate rules by linking to it or anything. Current "price" is $99. Are you thinking get it for parts while still being on the lookout for a working unit?

Risky Heath especially with him not being knowledgeable on exactly what to look for. After restoration, he'll looking at several hundred dollar machine, assuming no expensive repair. (i.e. motor, speed control parts, etc.) Knowing what I know now, I would wait. He's in a populated enough area where if he keeps his eyes open, he'll be able to get a better deal. The accessories.....nothing real special.

bucksaw · Post by **bucksaw** » Wed May 06, 2009 12:04 am

I'd tell him to buy it and get a 1-1/8hp motor to replace it off eBay. They go for about $175. He could also take the motor into a repair shop and have them take a look at it. For no more than $500 he could have the saw running like new he is willing to do the work himself. That would include new bearings, idler shaft (new) , speed changer sheave (new), pork chop (new), belts (new), power switch, and possibly a replacement headstock case with additional holes for maintenance.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Wed May 06, 2009 8:24 am

Is this the one in Palm Bay FL with the stuff on the blue tarp? Look at that tarp again... There is a SS jointer sitting just below that jigsaw... If I was within 300 miles of that (and your friend wasn't bidding) I would be all over that one. How could you lose???
Someone on ebay has some Mark V 510 headstocks (said to be good) for less than $250 Buy It Now prices. Its OK... You can paint a 510 headstock green.

-
Footnote: I would assume that no one here would use this to jump in on it unless they found out that the friend was NOT bidding on it. Is that a safe assumption?
I have been known to say that "when it comes to an auction that I have no friends", but that isn't really the case. If you and I are at an auction I will stand and face you bid against you without qualm. In a case like this where I would only become aware of it from a friend helping you I would never bid on something without checking your intentions. I look at it as being a little like "insider trading".

I would assume that such would be the consensus here as a group of gentlemen?

Ron309753 · Post by **Ron309753** » Wed May 06, 2009 9:20 am

For some reason I can't view the picture, but on JPG's post he asks the question "Why is the belt loose?" Bill Mayo is really the expert on this, but what I find is that if the speed control is turned back and forth with the power off the belt will get pinched in the sheaves. If the belt is tight enough in the motor sheaves the motor won’t turn and will just hum, which is really bad. If the belt is loose enough, the motor sheaves will burn the belt, which may be the cause of the smoke.

Sincerely,

Ron 309753

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed May 06, 2009 10:26 am

robinson46176 wrote:Is this the one in Palm Bay FL with the stuff on the blue tarp? Look at that tarp again... There is a SS jointer sitting just below that jigsaw... If I was within 300 miles of that (and your friend wasn't bidding) I would be all over that one. How could you lose???
Someone on ebay has some Mark V 510 headstocks (said to be good) for less than $250 Buy It Now prices. Its OK... You can paint a 510 headstock green.
-
Footnote: I would assume that no one here would use this to jump in on it unless they found out that the friend was NOT bidding on it. Is that a safe assumption?
I have been known to say that "when it comes to an auction that I have no friends", but that isn't really the case. If you and I are at an auction I will stand and face you bid against you without qualm. In a case like this where I would only become aware of it from a friend helping you I would never bid on something without checking your intentions. I look at it as being a little like "insider trading".
I would assume that such would be the consensus here as a group of gentlemen?

I would hope your last sentence IS accurate!

Heathicus: IF your friend decides AGAINST it POST that fact so IF a GENTLEMAN IS holding back you may release him from his conscience!:)

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed May 06, 2009 10:32 am

Ron309753 wrote:For some reason I can't view the picture, but on JPG's post he asks the question "Why is the belt loose?" Bill Mayo is really the expert on this, but what I find is that if the speed control is turned back and forth with the power off the belt will get pinched in the sheaves. If the belt is tight enough in the motor sheaves the motor won’t turn and will just hum, which is really bad. If the belt is loose enough, the motor sheaves will burn the belt, which may be the cause of the smoke.

Sincerely,

Ron 309753

The unknown here is why it is loose to the point of DANGLING????

It is not tight enough to stall the motor or smoke the belt.

We do not know if it is caught in the upper sheaves.