Looking for
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Looking for
Hey guys, I have a 510. With a bandsaw. I am missing the trunion and bandsaw table. I live in Vancouver, wa. Anyone selling?
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35428
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Looking for
E-bay is your friend.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Looking for
Hi everyone, just joined your forum after picking up a 1988 model 555510, mainly got it for the lathe but excited to start playing with all the attachments.
New to turning, I put a spindle between centers and fooled around with chisels until I could get things smooth and even, then put my current project onto a faceplate and got ready to make it beautiful. At 800rpm the machine started bucking like a bronco and I powered down after ~2 seconds. Shaft is bent ~3” from the business end. I put the spindle back between centers and of course it’s all wobbly now. Removed the shaft from the quill to check bearings, they are fine and the rest of the shaft is straight.
What did I do wrong? Could the shaft just have been weak or previously stressed? Can I even use the mark v 510 to turn this piece on faceplate?
Maple cylinder
8”D x 13”L
Already hollowed out by hand
New to turning, I put a spindle between centers and fooled around with chisels until I could get things smooth and even, then put my current project onto a faceplate and got ready to make it beautiful. At 800rpm the machine started bucking like a bronco and I powered down after ~2 seconds. Shaft is bent ~3” from the business end. I put the spindle back between centers and of course it’s all wobbly now. Removed the shaft from the quill to check bearings, they are fine and the rest of the shaft is straight.
What did I do wrong? Could the shaft just have been weak or previously stressed? Can I even use the mark v 510 to turn this piece on faceplate?
Maple cylinder
8”D x 13”L
Already hollowed out by hand
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- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4184
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Looking for
JDurks2,
I'll have to look but I think I might have an extra Aluminum Bandsaw Table. I currently have 4 Bandsaws waiting to be restored. The 1960's one had the Aluminum Table which is being replaced with a Cast Iron Table like it originally had. I don't believe I have an extra set of Trunnions. Did your Bandsaw originally have the Cast Iron Table or the Aluminum Table? There is a difference in the Trunnion mounting hardware between the two Tables, but the Trunnions themselves are interchangeable as are the Tables themselves. I'm across the river from you. I'll let you know what I find. Beyond that, as JPG said "E-bay is your friend."
I'll have to look but I think I might have an extra Aluminum Bandsaw Table. I currently have 4 Bandsaws waiting to be restored. The 1960's one had the Aluminum Table which is being replaced with a Cast Iron Table like it originally had. I don't believe I have an extra set of Trunnions. Did your Bandsaw originally have the Cast Iron Table or the Aluminum Table? There is a difference in the Trunnion mounting hardware between the two Tables, but the Trunnions themselves are interchangeable as are the Tables themselves. I'm across the river from you. I'll let you know what I find. Beyond that, as JPG said "E-bay is your friend."
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35428
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Looking for
nosbig wrote: ↑Sat Nov 30, 2024 11:31 am Hi everyone, just joined your forum after picking up a 1988 model 555510, mainly got it for the lathe but excited to start playing with all the attachments.
New to turning, I put a spindle between centers and fooled around with chisels until I could get things smooth and even, then put my current project onto a faceplate and got ready to make it beautiful. At 800rpm the machine started bucking like a bronco and I powered down after ~2 seconds. Shaft is bent ~3” from the business end. I put the spindle back between centers and of course it’s all wobbly now. Removed the shaft from the quill to check bearings, they are fine and the rest of the shaft is straight.
What did I do wrong? Could the shaft just have been weak or previously stressed? Can I even use the mark v 510 to turn this piece on faceplate?
Maple cylinder
8”D x 13”L
Already hollowed out by hand
I cannot imagine WHY anything that unbalanced and large would create a a bucking bronco!

Add to that off center(balance) mounting to a face plate.
800 is too fast for that task.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Looking for
Can the shaft spin slowly enough on this machine for the task?
I was under the impression that I could spin items that are not perfectly symmetrical, and since I work mostly with logs this is something that’s not going to be an isolated incident.
I’ve been doing everything by hand for years, finally decided to pull the trigger on lathing and see if I can make more polished items.
I found the COG and confirmed it by balancing the log on a 1/2” metal cylinder.
I was under the impression that I could spin items that are not perfectly symmetrical, and since I work mostly with logs this is something that’s not going to be an isolated incident.
I’ve been doing everything by hand for years, finally decided to pull the trigger on lathing and see if I can make more polished items.
I found the COG and confirmed it by balancing the log on a 1/2” metal cylinder.
Re: Looking for
Not clear from the pictures what you are turning since you hollowed it out by hand. Assuming you were turning it on lathe before hollowing??? Based on the size, I would agree with JPG and say it is likely too large to turn at 800RPM. The larger the turning, the more mass that is potentially off center until it has been perfectly rounded. This is why it was "bucking like a bronco". Once perfectly rounded, you could run it at 800RPM, in theory, but larger mass turnings are MUCH safer turned at lower speeds on a lathe. To do this on the Mark V (model 510), you would need to get a Shopsmith speed reducer to turn it safely, unless your 510 has been upgraded to a PowerPro that has a lower speed range. I don't really understand your wording above. What do you mean by "Shaft is bent ~3” from the business end." Are you saying that the shaft (where the faceplate attaches) is now bent? One caution about using the faceplate for a lathe turning with the tailstock center, is you must first mark the center of the faceplate (with nothing attached) and align the tailstock center to this. Otherwise, you will not have concentricity between the faceplate and the tailstock center which might explain some of what you are reporting here. The Shopsmith tailstock has an eccentric that you adjust to ensure concentricity to the shaft arbor (e.g. drive hub, lathe chuck or face plate). Lastly, to answer your question, yes you can turn things that are NOT perfectly symmetrical, but on any lathe it will cause more vibration and could even cause the lathe to bounce as you witnessed. Lower speeds help greatly to minimize this. Know that the Mark V, as a lathe, is rather light (in weight). Some use sandbags or some other weight attached to the lower waytubes to help with vibration on larger turnings like you are attempting. NOT saying you must use this, but it helps for large bowls to be turned. I have had no problems with 8" bowls on my 520 with no ballast weight, but just pointing out that it can help. This is why heavy duty standalone lathes have a cast iron bed and often cast iron legs as well. The added weight greatly reduces vibration and stabilizes the lathe for any turning sized within the capacity of the lathe. You can do good work woodturning on a Shopsmith lathe, but it does take a little more finesse to manage issues like this with larger turnings as I understand it. Hope this helps.nosbig wrote: ↑Sat Nov 30, 2024 5:42 pm Can the shaft spin slowly enough on this machine for the task?
I was under the impression that I could spin items that are not perfectly symmetrical, and since I work mostly with logs this is something that’s not going to be an isolated incident.
I’ve been doing everything by hand for years, finally decided to pull the trigger on lathing and see if I can make more polished items.
I found the COG and confirmed it by balancing the log on a 1/2” metal cylinder.
Mark V 520 (Bought New '98) | 4" jointer | 6" beltsander | 12" planer | bandsaw | router table | speed reducer | univ. tool rest
Porter Cable 12" Compound Miter Saw | Rikon 8" Low Speed Bench Grinder w/CBN wheels | Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides
Festool (Emerald): DF 500 Q | RO 150 FEQ | OF 1400 EQ | TS 55 REQ | CT 26 E
DC3300 | Shopvac w/ClearVue CV06 Mini Cyclone | JDS AirTech 2000 | Sundstrom PAPR | Dylos DC1100 Pro particulate monitor
- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4184
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Looking for
nosbig,
I see two possible problems with how you tried this turning project. The first was hollowing out the center prior to mounting it and turning it. It will remain out of balance until both the outside and inside are made smooth and symmetrical. The second is making sure the end of the "log" cut at a perfect 90 degree to attach it to the Face Plate. I would recommend cutting the "log" off then mount it to the Face Plate and use a Tailstock Live Center to begin with. Get the outside to shape before you start on hollowing it out after removing the Tailstock and center. Use the Lathe to hollow it out instead of doing it by hand. You could try to hollow it out by hand and finish the inside on the lathe. As has already been said use the slowest speed on your Mark V which is 700 RPM or you could get, if desired, a Speed Reducer which will go as low as 100 RPM.
JDurks2,
Sorry your topic has been taken over a bit by the other unrelated subject.
I do have an extra Aluminum Bandsaw Table but no spare Trunnions. Do you know which Table your Bandsaw had originally? Would you want an Aluminum Table or prefer the Cast Iron Table? There are pluses and minuses with each. You will still have to get a set of Trunnions from somewhere. New Trunnions are part number 502675 and are $24.95. That is, I believe, for each one and you need two. I would also guess you need the bolts that mount the Table to the Trunnions.
I see two possible problems with how you tried this turning project. The first was hollowing out the center prior to mounting it and turning it. It will remain out of balance until both the outside and inside are made smooth and symmetrical. The second is making sure the end of the "log" cut at a perfect 90 degree to attach it to the Face Plate. I would recommend cutting the "log" off then mount it to the Face Plate and use a Tailstock Live Center to begin with. Get the outside to shape before you start on hollowing it out after removing the Tailstock and center. Use the Lathe to hollow it out instead of doing it by hand. You could try to hollow it out by hand and finish the inside on the lathe. As has already been said use the slowest speed on your Mark V which is 700 RPM or you could get, if desired, a Speed Reducer which will go as low as 100 RPM.
JDurks2,
Sorry your topic has been taken over a bit by the other unrelated subject.
I do have an extra Aluminum Bandsaw Table but no spare Trunnions. Do you know which Table your Bandsaw had originally? Would you want an Aluminum Table or prefer the Cast Iron Table? There are pluses and minuses with each. You will still have to get a set of Trunnions from somewhere. New Trunnions are part number 502675 and are $24.95. That is, I believe, for each one and you need two. I would also guess you need the bolts that mount the Table to the Trunnions.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Re: Looking for
I believe it was originally a cast iron table but I can't be sure.chapmanruss wrote: ↑Sat Nov 30, 2024 1:20 pm JDurks2,
I'll have to look but I think I might have an extra Aluminum Bandsaw Table. I currently have 4 Bandsaws waiting to be restored. The 1960's one had the Aluminum Table which is being replaced with a Cast Iron Table like it originally had. I don't believe I have an extra set of Trunnions. Did your Bandsaw originally have the Cast Iron Table or the Aluminum Table? There is a difference in the Trunnion mounting hardware between the two Tables, but the Trunnions themselves are interchangeable as are the Tables themselves. I'm across the river from you. I'll let you know what I find. Beyond that, as JPG said "E-bay is your friend."