Anyone consider cutting bandsaw Table?

[tdorey]

I have the aluminum bandsaw table and as you know, it needs removal to go to drill press mode.

Has anyone ever considered cutting out a ver small part of the table to make room from the way tube bracket? I was thinking of just using a disc grinder and then a spindle sander to make it smooth half moon shape. I wouldn't impact performance any way, It only needs like 1" to clear the tubes.

I don't want to buy another set of bandsaw tubes with the offset, if I don't have to. I'm in Canada so by the time I pay duties, Taxes and exchange rate they are about $150.

See attached for what I was thinking.

[algale]

I have a pair of the special offset tubes. Ironically they came with a used band saw with a cast iron table where they weren't needed. Initially I thought I'd swap them for the tubes on my aluminum table band saw; but I don't like the special offset tubes because they bounce like crazy.

Before I'd mangle my aluminum table I'd give consideration to the following:

1. Do as much horizontal boring as possible to eliminate the need to go vertical.
2. I think if you fully tilt the aluminum band saw table you will find there is just barely enough clearance to get the Shopsmith to vertical if you want to do a vertical operation. Of course then you have to reset your table to perpendicular each time.
3. Remove the band saw when you need to go vertical.
4. Find someone with a cast iron table band saw and see if they will trade ya.

[HopefulSSer]

I don't like the special offset tubes because they bounce like crazy.

I was just about to ask you what you thought of them!

[JPG]

The OEM off set 'tubes'(actually solid round bar stock) assembly can be greatly stiffened by replacing the thin flat bar with some closer to 1/2" thick. The offset can be increased as well.

[tdorey]

I was thinking about the thicker plates as well to help with the springboard effect.

Thanks for the replies.

[chapmanruss]

tdorey,

I'm not sure what the cutout on the outfeed end table would accomplish. It is the Tie Bar on the ends of the Way Tubes that has to clear the Bandsaw Table when changing to Drill Press mode. We had a discussion previously about this problem. As I recall it was the Fence Rail of the Bandsaw's Aluminum Table that interfered with the Tie Bar clearing it to go into Drill Press position. Without the Fence Rail and the Mounting Posts having the offset to put the Bandsaw the furthest from the Headstock the Tie Bar barely cleared the Bandsaw Table when I tried it on a Mark V. With the Fence Rail on the Bandsaw Table, it does not clear. That requires the off-set Mounting Posts to work.

Of course, all this is moot if you have the Double Tilt Upgrade on a Mark V or have a Mark 7.

The Cast Iron Bandsaw Table is smaller which does not have this issue. The same is true for the older Bandsaws with straight Mounting Posts and that original Cast Iron Table.

[tdorey]

I don't think the fence has anything to do with it hitting. I don't have a fence.

The existing tubes have some movement, but that movement is for lining up to the headstock, and I don't think there is enough play to make up the space.?

I am looking for a cast iron table locally to try out, but it is 13lbs heavier.

Ideally, it would be nice to leave on the BS and not have to unlock the table.

The options are
Find Iron Table (hard to find for me and heaver)
Use the Different Tubes (expensive for me and may add springboarding)
Cut a small amount off existing Table.
Remove the bandsaw every time you use the drill press.

[tdorey]

Well thanks to you guys and Facebook Marketplace, I now have two Bandsaws!

[tdorey]

Two is better than one? Time to clean up the cast iron top.

[chapmanruss]

tdorey,

Congratulations on your new to you second Bandsaw. I feel I have to now warn you that collecting Shopsmith tools can be habit forming.
I speak from experience on that. Just in Bandsaws I currently own 8 but 1 is now ready to be resold.

In my previous post I said.

Without the Fence Rail and the Mounting Posts having the offset to put the Bandsaw the furthest from the Headstock the Tie Bar barely cleared the Bandsaw Table when I tried it on a Mark V.

You are correct that the standard Eccentric Mounting Posts are for lining up the Bandsaw to the Headstock. It shouldn't take much of a rotation of the Posts to line up the Hubs horizontally. Originally the Mounting Posts were straight and aligning the SPT's to the Headstock was not a problem. My restored 1956 Greenie Bandsaw with the original straight Posts had no problem being aligned to the Headstock.

In the picture below, one of my Bandsaws is on a Headrest with the Posts having the offset at the eccentric putting it farther away from the Headstock than if the posts were rotated 180 degrees. The offsets are sitting flush with the top of the Headrest Mounting Holes (I know it is not easy to see) with the upper part of the offset over the back side in the picture.

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Mounting Posts arrows.jpg (56.78 KiB) Viewed 31993 times

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In the picture below of the different Eccentric Mounting Posts the arrow indicates the side of the Bandsaw post that should face the Headstock for maximum clearance.
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Eccentric Mounting Posts arrow Bandsaw.jpg (132.57 KiB) Viewed 31993 times

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If none of this helps with the clearance, the Cast Iron Table Bandsaw will clear. I would recommend against removing any of the edge of the Aluminum Table as that would weaken the Table.

Just out of curiosity is the Cast Iron Table Bandsaw newer than the Aluminum Table Bandsaw? Serial numbers and/or Date Code would tell. The change to the black plastic knobs for the cover occurred around 1986 while the Table changed from Cast Iron to Aluminum around 1991. Your Aluminum Table may be an upgrade one. I don't believe being an upgrade changes the clearance of the Table to the Tie Bar.