Shopsmith Forums

This thread is intended to illustrate a method of reassembling the base(bench tubes).
Notice the WAY(upper) tube is 3/4" shorter than the BENCH(lower) tube. This 3/4" difference in length should be the same for any "Mini" or "Shorty" SS which has been cut down in length(width).
Notice the Bench tube is butted up against a stop(rib) in the end casting(Hinge end). Push BOTH Bench tubes(the longer ones) up against their stop and tighten the two bolts securely. If you have an older model which did not include the washers under the bolt heads, I recommend you add some.
Push the other end cap(clamp end) onto the other end of the tubes. Notice the tubes are inserted just up to the edge of the casting. Tighten the two bolts securely. See washer recommendation above.

This thread is one of several which illustrate a method for reassembling a Mark V. Please post a reply and inform me of any errors or confusion. They WILL be fixed!

This thread was linked to from http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... #post41340

JPG40504 wrote:...

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Push the other end cap(clamp end) onto the other end of the tubes. Notice the tubes are inserted just up to the edge of the casting. Tighten the two bolts securely. ...

This leaves at least 3/8" of air between the way tube end and the cap or stop.
Somethin doesn't add up.
?-- ah, possibly another vintage or version discrapency, me wonders.

keakap wrote:This leaves at least 3/8" of air between the way tube end and the cap or stop.
Somethin doesn't add up.
?-- ah, possibly another vintage or version discrapency, me wonders.

This end cap does not have a 'stop' cast in. If the tube protrudes too far from the edge of the casting, it will interfere with an spt tube inserted fron the 'top'. The 'other' end cap HAS a stop cast in(see prev pix).

Does anyone know what Shop smith (or the replier) recommends for a torque spec for the bench tube clamp bolts? I'm fearful of over tightening and damaging the aluminum casting. I note also that some have said they've seen crushed or dented bench tubes. I would think however that the alum threads would strip or the casting crack before the tubes would crush. Anyone have any feedback re this?

You can call CS and see what they recommend(assuming they will give you a torque spec.). However just reasonably snug should suffice. No need to do a gorilla act.

I go for around 20 ft pds of torque on the bench tube clamp bolts. I would set 25 ft pds as the maximum torque on the 3/8" bolts to use. If no torque wrench, then flatten the lock washer and just very little extra will hold nicely.

Thanks to JPG and billmayo for the response and information. I tried 20 lbs-ft with a settable torque wrench but it didn't seem to get there so I stopped. However, using a small 3/8 ratchet, the bolts feel pretty tight.

saltydog65 wrote:Does anyone know what Shop smith (or the replier) recommends for a torque spec for the bench tube clamp bolts? I'm fearful of over tightening and damaging the aluminum casting. I note also that some have said they've seen crushed or dented bench tubes. I would think however that the alum threads would strip or the casting crack before the tubes would crush. Anyone have any feedback re this?

If you are concerned about 'crushing' the tubes when you tighten the bolts, you could make some wooden plugs to fit inside the tubes. Now you can gorilla the clamp bolts down as tight as you like (until you strip the threads in the casting). Good luck on getting any sort of spec info from Shopsmith. If it is not already stated in the manual (and it is not), they will not part with such information.

I tighten the bolts down until they are snug and then add 1/4 turn.

JPG wrote:

keakap wrote:This leaves at least 3/8" of air between the way tube end and the cap or stop.
Somethin doesn't add up.
?-- ah, possibly another vintage or version discrapency, me wonders.

This end cap does not have a 'stop' cast in. If the tube protrudes too far from the edge of the casting, it will interfere with an spt tube inserted fron the 'top'. The 'other' end cap HAS a stop cast in(see prev pix).

I use the 'spt tube' as the stop point and then back the bench tubes off just a little for clearance. Which I think is exactly what JPG was recommending. I want the tubes inserted as far as they can be without creating an interference.

dusty wrote:

JPG wrote:

keakap wrote:This leaves at least 3/8" of air between the way tube end and the cap or stop.
Somethin doesn't add up.
?-- ah, possibly another vintage or version discrapency, me wonders.

This end cap does not have a 'stop' cast in. If the tube protrudes too far from the edge of the casting, it will interfere with an spt tube inserted fron the 'top'. The 'other' end cap HAS a stop cast in(see prev pix).

I use the 'spt tube' as the stop point and then back the bench tubes off just a little for clearance. Which I think is exactly what JPG was recommending. I want the tubes inserted as far as they can be without creating an interference.

Any extension of the bench tube beyond the edge provides minimal advantage.

I cannot imagine anyone in their right mind tightening those screws to the point of 'crushing' the tube. Breakdown bar (with/without pipe) not required for this!!!