Shopsmith Forums

My workbench sits against a cinder block wall in my basement. I'd like to put up pegboard for tools, bins, etc., but I don't know how to attach it to the wall. I know I will have to use spacers to get the pegboard away from the wall. Do I need to drill holes in the wall and use some sort of expanding anchors? Should I anchor into the hollow or solid part of the blocks? Thanks in advance for your help.

Loren

Loren,

I'd use Tapcon's (http://www.tapcon.com) or something similar. You can get them and a Tapcon drill bit at any home center. No need for an expanding anchor and is suitable for block.

Sincerely,

Ron

Thanks for your reply, Ron. I'll check those out.

Loren

Loren, another thing you might consider... I build a whole wall of shelves in the basement attached to the wall. I took a 2x4 upright, put a good ribbon of Liquid Nail on the board and used a couple concrete nails to attach it to the wall. Once the Liquid Nail is dry, it's on there for GOOD...

My shop is a bit different. I have concrete walls and do not like to attach anything to the walls. I use either 2X2 or 2X4's I make a frame all the way around the peg board and attach the frame to my bench also running the frame all the way up to the rafters and screwing into the rafters. Strong, going no where and still portable when I rearrange the shop or move. I have also been known to have a shelf at the top of the pegboard. For some strange reason I never seem to have enough shelving. fjimp

I would suggest a hybrid method, using part of Jim's approach and part of what I use.

I understand Jim,'s adversity for connection anything to his concrete basement walls. Hanging a vertical support from the rafters (floor joists) is an excellent idea. Putting a frame all the way around the peg board is also an excellent idea. The only change I would make is that the top (horizontal) member of the peg board frame would be beveled at a 45 degree angle. Then a horizontal member with a reverse bevel would be attached to the vertical runners. The peg board can then be moved around at will.

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I once needed some pegboard panels on a concrete block wall. I screwed 1"x3" furring strips vertically to the edge of the sill plate on top of the wall and just let them hang down 48" OC apart. I then cut 1/2" foam and foil sheathing and attached it to the edge of the sill plate and let it hang down snugly fitted between the furring strips. I then attached the pegboard to the furring strips. It insulated the wall and I loaded them fairly heavy and it worked great. If I was going to use it for quite heavy stuff I would use a third strip down the center and cut the foam to fit that configuration. The foam sheathing BTW, also made a great vapor barrier. It kept moisture from migrating in through the porous block in rainy weather.
Prior to installing that you could feel the cold radiating off of that wall in the winter. It made the whole shop a lot more comfortable.
If I were doing it again I would probably use "FBBF" (foil/bubble/bubble/foil insulation. It is stupendously easy to work with and quite effective.
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Beware of high prices on this stuff as the price from some on-line vendors is just silly. I bought the last batch I used from Lowes.

Ron309753 wrote:Loren,

I'd use Tapcon's (www.tapcon.com) or something similar. You can get them and a Tapcon drill bit at any home center. No need for an expanding anchor and is suitable for block.

Sincerely,

Ron

I like these very much, and they are my first choice when attaching my downspouts to customers block and brick walls, It is the fastest and most secure product that I have used for that purpose. For solid concrete, my first choice is this.

I've also used the Tapcon “blue screw” lo attach things to brick. I've attached an American flag, gate posts, and water hose hangers to our brick house and they've held great. A hammer drill is necessary, however.

dusty wrote:I would suggest a hybrid method, using part of Jim's approach and part of what I use.

I understand Jim,'s adversity for connection anything to his concrete basement walls. Hanging a vertical support from the rafters (floor joists) is an excellent idea. Putting a frame all the way around the peg board is also an excellent idea. The only change I would make is that the top (horizontal) member of the peg board frame would be beveled at a 45 degree angle. Then a horizontal member with a reverse bevel would be attached to the vertical runners. The peg board can then be moved around at will.

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Gotta love those French cleats! It's an easy way to hang cabinets as well!!
BPR