Under the stairs closet
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Under the stairs closet
Hello everyone, been a long time since I posted. I have some dead space under the stairs in my house that I would like to make into a small storage closet. (My wife has a lot of Christmas ornaments) Ran my stud finder over the face of the dry wall and found a couple of studs and a cross member. Has anyone ever done this before in our group? What methods would I use to shore up the stairs to create a wider door for easier access?
Thanks,
Bernie
500 upgraded to 520 with a power station.
Thanks,
Bernie
500 upgraded to 520 with a power station.
- JPG
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1) What is directly under the TOP of the stairs(a full wall)? 2)Are you 'finding' studs etc. under the stairs in a wall which enclosed the 'open side of the stairs? 3)Is the 'other' side against a 'full' wall?
I doubt these studs are load bearing, but are there to attach the drywall to . You need to get a peek inside the dead space to determine what can be done.
I doubt these studs are load bearing, but are there to attach the drywall to . You need to get a peek inside the dead space to determine what can be done.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Just cut a hole in the sheet rock between the studs crawl in with a flashlight and look around. At worst you may have to brace up or build a header before cutting out all the wall space for the door. If you change your mind slide a piece of furniture over the hole.

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Mark
2017 Power Pro Mark 7
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and a few other woodworking tools.
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Mark
2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
- JPG
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or put a big furnace grill(register) over it!:Dmbcabinetmaker wrote:Just cut a hole in the sheet rock between the studs crawl in with a flashlight and look around. At worst you may have to brace up or build a header before cutting out all the wall space for the door. If you change your mind slide a piece of furniture over the hole.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- a1gutterman
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Hi Bernie,bernie_penkin wrote:Hello everyone, been a long time since I posted. I have some dead space under the stairs in my house that I would like to make into a small storage closet. (My wife has a lot of Christmas ornaments) Ran my stud finder over the face of the dry wall and found a couple of studs and a cross member. Has anyone ever done this before in our group? What methods would I use to shore up the stairs to create a wider door for easier access?
Thanks,
Bernie
500 upgraded to 520 with a power station.
Your question does knot have a cut-and-dry answer. It depends on the existing construction, what is being supported and perhaps some other considerations. As has already been said, you will need to remove some of the sheetrock and have a look. Sheetrock can be easily repaired if you change your mind, but here are a few things to think about:
1) Is there any plumbing in the wall in question? (Doubtful, but difficult to change if there is.)
2) Is there any electric wiring in that wall? (Much easier to relocate then plumbing is, so not a job killer, but something that you will have to deal with.)
3) Is it a load bearing wall? If knot, you can pretty much remodel the wall as you see fit]Shear wall[/URL]? If it is, you probably will knot be able to hole it with a closet door.
I hope this has been helpful.
Tim
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I had a plumber do this to my kitchen. I remolded my kitchen. The previous owners had a vent tube running right down the middle. The hot h2o heater was in alittle pantry. The stairs where behind this pantry. The contracter knocked down the pantry walls, cont and plumber moved the heater and reran the plumbing (under the stairs). He framed it and put up alittle door (closet size). Now I store extra pots and pans and snacks in there. I can send you some before and after pics if you want.
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Mike
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Most of try to avoid MOLD, not mold it over!:Dnavycop wrote:I had a plumber do this to my kitchen. I remolded my kitchen. The previous owners had a vent tube running right down the middle. The hot h2o heater was in alittle pantry. The stairs where behind this pantry. The contracter knocked down the pantry walls, cont and plumber moved the heater and reran the plumbing (under the stairs). He framed it and put up alittle door (closet size). Now I store extra pots and pans and snacks in there. I can send you some before and after pics if you want.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- a1gutterman
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Hi again Bernie,bernie_penkin wrote:Hello everyone, been a long time since I posted. I have some dead space under the stairs in my house that I would like to make into a small storage closet. (My wife has a lot of Christmas ornaments) Ran my stud finder over the face of the dry wall and found a couple of studs and a cross member. Has anyone ever done this before in our group? What methods would I use to shore up the stairs to create a wider door for easier access?
Thanks,
Bernie
500 upgraded to 520 with a power station.
I reread your question and realized that I had knot addressed your concern with the stairs themselves. Normally, the supports for stair treads are called stair jacksor stair stringers. Normally, the bottom of the stair jacks sit on a floor surface and the tops are nailed to a joist. Your modification should in no way effect the stair system. The wall that you are cutting a door into should knot be supporting the stairs.
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
- Ed in Tampa
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gutterman wrote:Hi again Bernie,
I reread your question and realized that I had knot addressed your concern with the stairs themselves. Normally, the supports for stair treads are called stair jacksor stair stringers. Normally, the bottom of the stair jacks sit on a floor surface and the tops are nailed to a joist. Your modification should in no way effect the stair system. The wall that you are cutting a door into should knot be supporting the stairs.
I think there is a big caution here! The last statement
Has a word "Should", it is true the wall you are cutting into should not be supporting the stairs but it MIGHT be! Cut the dry wall and examine the structure do not assume anything.The wall that you are cutting a door into should knot be supporting the stairs.
Ed in Tampa
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Thanks for all the replies. The access point is from a hallway and the stairs are supported against a load bearing wall. From what I can tell the the space is empty. I plan on knocking a small hole into the wall for a look see. I am thinking that I might just cover the section of wall with knotty pine and then cut the door out of the planks. Saw some thing similar in a old house and thought it looked nice. My house is only 7 years old, so there is not a lot of "old" charm to it.