Craftsman Molding Set

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rwyoung
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Craftsman Molding Set

Post by rwyoung »

I recently came across a 30+ year old Craftsman molding set that I bought new for my radial saw and never used (so it's still new). I didn't have a Shopsmith then, but do now (500, upgraded to a 510). First, is it advisable to use this set on the Shopsmith? Second, if it is okay to use what type of arbor and table insert should I have? Thanks in advance for the help.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

rwyoung wrote:I recently came across a 30+ year old Craftsman molding set that I bought new for my radial saw and never used (so it's still new). I didn't have a Shopsmith then, but do now (500, upgraded to a 510). First, is it advisable to use this set on the Shopsmith? Second, if it is okay to use what type of arbor and table insert should I have? Thanks in advance for the help.

Assuming a 5/8" arbor hole, - http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/ms_molderdadoarbor.htm

The ss insert should be ok! - http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/ms_tableinsert.htm

Before committing a sizable amount of $$, verify there are still additional knives available to fit it.

If you have never used one of these, do be careful!!!! They are a beast and shallow feed rates are recommended. They are capable of launching the workpiece similar to saw blade kickback.

That said, they do produce better results than the 'shaper' due to their increased cutting radius(the same thing that increases the launch probably and velocity).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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chucks
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Post by chucks »

When I was looking for one of these, I checked out the Sears version. They no longer had them available.....however there were many available on ebay for reasonable amounts(Knives). Have one, but have not used it yet. Planning on using it with my Sears table saw. Caution is the only thing I've heard about using them...I to,would be interested in any other advice.
Chucks in Phoenix Mark V(5), Mark VII(2),Power Pro, Planer, Crafter Station, Jointer,Bandsaw(3),Lathe Duplicator,Belt Sander,Jig Saw,DC3300(2),"Sears Router Crafter", Post Drill, Stand alone Overarm Router. Jointmatic ++++,
charlese
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Post by charlese »

JPG40504 wrote:...That said, (in theory) they do produce better results than the 'shaper' due to their increased cutting radius.

In engineering theory only! Bet no one can look at a finished product and tell what kind of machine produced it!;)
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

[quote="charlese"]In engineering theory only! Bet no one can look at a finished product and tell what kind of machine produced it!]

That would depend on how close one looked at it! I have noticed the difference!

Sharpness can also be 'seen'!
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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burkhome
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molding head

Post by burkhome »

Only got one thing to say...Heavy Duty feather boards
Roger
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burkhome
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molding head

Post by burkhome »

Only got one thing to say...Heavy Duty feather boards. I broke 2 plastic ones and threw my workpiece. Thank God my dad taught me never to stand directly behind the workpiece that I was feeding into a table saw.
Roger
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

burkhome wrote:Only got one thing to say...Heavy Duty feather boards. I broke 2 plastic ones and threw my workpiece. Thank God my dad taught me never to stand directly behind the workpiece that I was feeding into a table saw.
Roger

FWIW You can delete the duplicate message under the 'edit message' function. You have to scroll down to find it, click delete this message(three places) and enter duplicate when prompted for a reason.

Add small cut depth to that only one thing to say!
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
drl
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Post by drl »

I have a Craftsman molding set being very close to the same vintage. The set came in two versions as I recall: a three cutter version and a single cutter version. I have a three cutter version and have used it several times on my Mark V. Suggestions for use: Feed slowly, make shallow cuts, and use feather boards. Would stress the slow feed rate--wide cutters taking out a lot of material.
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Dwight
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

chucks wrote:When I was looking for one of these, I checked out the Sears version. They no longer had them available.....however there were many available on ebay for reasonable amounts(Knives). Have one, but have not used it yet. Planning on using it with my Sears table saw. Caution is the only thing I've heard about using them...I to,would be interested in any other advice.
Looks like they still offer one at Sears.com: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ockType=G1
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
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