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Pork chop and speed changer questions with pics
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 1:39 pm
by tunznath
Hi All
Just checking out my 500, to do some maintenance as I have just bought it and the previous owner most probably didnt do much maintenance, and have taken the following questions and concerns
1. the speedchanger is quite difficult to turn, you have to turn it not using the little handle but by grasping it on the outside rim, also when it gets to high speed it seems something is rubbing or grating - is this the high speed adjustment that needs to be adjusted?
2. the quill is quite difficult to move out for the first couple of inches, and then it gets easier, also when retracting the quil I need to use the quill feed lever to get it in and it also sounds as if there is grinding grating - i have checked for dirt in the gears and there is none.also I have a loose washer thing on the inside I will post a pic, it just spins around.
3. The pork chop connection looks a little strange. see pic
4 if problem 3 relates to problem 1 do I fix the pork chop connection before adjustment.
pics to follow in about 10 minutes
5. also there is a little plastic tab inside the headstock - is this a wire restrainer?
thanks all
nath
Faial
AZORES
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 2:02 pm
by JPG
Maybe this be helpful!
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/faq.htm?s=&do=search&q=attachment&match=all&titlesonly=0
You can get there by clicking on the paper clip icon in the menu bar also.
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 2:04 pm
by tunznath
more pics sorry still learning how to do this
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 2:24 pm
by JPG
The bracket that holds the pin that the porkchop rotates on is prone to getting bent(Probably caused by too rapid a change from high to low speed by forcing the dial). This causes the worm gear to become misaligned with the porkchop gear.
Bill Mayo came up with an excellent 'fix' The pin is replaced with a #10 cap screw and the legs are carefully formed back to their original position which places the worm gear over the center of the pork chop teeth. A lock nut secures the threaded end of the screw.
The soft aluminum teeth on the porkchop may need to be cleaned up with a file if they have become 'mashed'.
[ATTACH]8822[/ATTACH]
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 2:30 pm
by tunznath
hi JPG - BTW thanks for the help with the attachments - your last post with the fix, is that what has happened to mine?, It has a 240 motor not a 110 v motor and maybe it wasnt put together right years ago?
is the little spring supposed to be at an angle?
nath
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 2:35 pm
by tunznath
Many thanks
JPG 40504 - is there another view of the fix, I am finding it a little hard to get my bearings or is there a thread where it explains more
thanks
nath
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 2:43 pm
by JPG
The washer that is 'rotating' with the quill feed merely sets loosely on the quill feed shaft when it is not 'locked'. Rotation normal!
The clip between the control sheave and the porkchop is free to flop around when the speed is not being adjusted. Pix is normal!
The quill has a an anti rotation set screw on the top of the quill that rides in a groove along the 'top' of the quill shaft. Check this groove for any burrs on either the sides of the groove or the bottom of the groove. Gently file away any burrs that the screw rubs against. To determine if there are any burrs, remove that screw in the top of the Headstock. Be careful to center the groove below the screw hole when putting the screw back on. Gently run the screw in until it contacts the quill shaft. Then rotate the quill shaft until the screw is directly over the groove. Run the screw in until it contacts the bottom of the groove. Back out the screw slightly so as to provide clearance(no binding).
Be careful to not advance the quill too far out, or we will have to start a new subject(putting the quill back into the headstock).
If no burrs are found, look at the quill shaft itself for burrs etc. The groove is the most likely culprit however(It may need to be cleaned out of buildup).
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 2:49 pm
by JPG
The only difference between a 115v motor and the 2++ motors is the motor itself(and wiring differences) and the main poly-v pulley(if 50Hz). None of your 'problems' are related to the difference in the motor.
I will attempt to find a relevant thread for the speed control modifications.
This thread may not be provide the additional info you are needing re speed control mod. When Bill is again online PM him as he suggests for more pix. Do not let all the other subjects derail you!
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... #post66418
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 2:56 pm
by wa2crk
Hi
I(t appears to me from your photos that the washer you are referring to is on the quill pinion feed shaft. That would be the shaft that moves when you move the quill in and out.
That washer is supposed to be there and will rotate around the shaft. It appears to be the domed washer that clamps the quill housing when you lock the quill.
As for the quill making a grating sound when you retract it that, sounds that there might some debris or other foreign matter inside the spring housing that is causing the binding. Remove the quill and the pinion shaft for examination.
DO NOT TRY TO DISASSEMBLE THE SPRING MECHANISM. There is a lot of tension and if the spring comes loose it will most likely cause some sort of injury. When removing the pinion shaft be careful not to drop the domed washer into the motor pan!!! I tie a piece of string to the shaft end before pulling the shaft to avoid dropping the washer. Use the same method for installation.
With the quill and shaft removed clean the quill bore with some solvent and a piece of green 3M pad to remove any old built up wax from the quill bore in the headstock. DO NOT USE AN ABRASIVE THAT CAN REMOVE METAL!!! The dimensions are critical.
Check the groove on top of the quill for any burrs that may have formed along the edges of the groove. Very small burrs can cause some binding. If you do find burrs remove them with a fine jewelers file.
As for the spring housing that I mentioned earlier. if there is any debris in there it can sometimes be removed with compressed air. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES WHEN USING COMPRESSED AIR!!
Wax the internal bore of the headstock where the quill moves and also the quill itself with Johnson's paste floor wax. Do NOT use automotive wax.
Johnson's paste wax in the red and yellow can can be bought at most home centers.
Make sure that before reassembly you check all of the other components of the quill feed system for rust or contamination that can cause the symptoms and reassemble everything. Re tension the spring according to the manual and see if that cures the problem. If not come back to the forumn for addition help.
Bill V
Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 4:05 pm
by dusty
tunznath wrote:Hi All
Just checking out my 500, to do some maintenance as I have just bought it and the previous owner most probably didnt do much maintenance, and have taken the following questions and concerns
1. the speedchanger is quite difficult to turn, you have to turn it not using the little handle but by grasping it on the outside rim, also when it gets to high speed it seems something is rubbing or grating - is this the high speed adjustment that needs to be adjusted?
2. the quill is quite difficult to move out for the first couple of inches, and then it gets easier, also when retracting the quil I need to use the quill feed lever to get it in and it also sounds as if there is grinding grating - i have checked for dirt in the gears and there is none.also I have a loose washer thing on the inside I will post a pic, it just spins around.
3. The pork chop connection looks a little strange. see pic
4 if problem 3 relates to problem 1 do I fix the pork chop connection before adjustment.
pics to follow in about 10 minutes
5. also there is a little plastic tab inside the headstock - is this a wire restrainer?
thanks all
nath
Faial
AZORES
I highly recommend that you utilize that plastic clip. It is there to keep the wires from getting engaged with the mechanics inside the headstock. Take it from one who knows first hand, failure to control the location of thosde wires leads to "sparks and smoke". Not "fire and smoke" but pretty significant fireworks.