Speed Changer belts

[jbr]

Does anyone out there have some part numbers for the speed changer belts? Any help would be great. Thanks

[beeg]

I don't know which SS ya have, but here's a start for ya.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/partscat/mostfrequentlyorderedparts.htm

[JPG]

Does anyone out there have some part numbers for the speed changer belts? Any help would be great. Thanks

IMHO, 1/2" x 22" and 1/2" x 25". I believe originally 22.5" was used, but since the motor position is adjustable. the length may vary. 25.5" are now unique to ss. 25" are much easier to 'find' locally.

P.S. I am assuming a 10 e/er here!

[pennview]

Here's information on belt sizes I copied from Skip Campbell on the Yahoo 10ER site:

"Just a note on the belt sizes for the 10ER:
The direct drive belt for most 10ERs with the A.O. Smith 1/2 HP motor is
a 38" or 4L380. For the 3/4 HP A.O. Smith a 39" belt works better. The
38" is a little tight for changing steps even with the motor all the
way up.
For the speed changer, the original belts were a 22.5 and 25.5" (4L225
and 4L255). Since 1/2" sizes are hard to find these days we have found
that 22 and 25" (4L220 and 4L250) works best on most machines with the
1/2 HP motor. In order to keep the speed changer dial relatively close
when changing ranges, both belts need to be shortened or extended the
same length from the original belt size. 22" and 25" are both 1/2"
shorter. 23" and 26" would work as far as keeping the dial centered but
on most machines that would have the motor hitting the bench. You can
use other combinations but you will have to re adjust the dial when
changing ranges and in some cases you will not be able to get the dial
calibrated. The outer sheaves on the speed changer pulley need to be
properly adjusted no matter what belts you are using. The spacing should
be set to allow the belts to go down into the groove as deep as possible
WITHOUT bottoming on the center hub. I try to set them with about 1/16"
daylight under the belt. With the 22 and 25" belts, if the sheaves are
not set correctly and belt tension set correctly, not only will you not
get full speed range but in some cases the pulley hub will rub on the
adjusting rod. I hope this helps some."

[dusty]

Here's information on belt sizes I copied from Skip Campbell on the Yahoo 10ER site:

"Just a note on the belt sizes for the 10ER:
The direct drive belt for most 10ERs with the A.O. Smith 1/2 HP motor is
a 38" or 4L380. For the 3/4 HP A.O. Smith a 39" belt works better. The
38" is a little tight for changing steps even with the motor all the
way up.
For the speed changer, the original belts were a 22.5 and 25.5" (4L225
and 4L255). Since 1/2" sizes are hard to find these days we have found
that 22 and 25" (4L220 and 4L250) works best on most machines with the
1/2 HP motor. In order to keep the speed changer dial relatively close
when changing ranges, both belts need to be shortened or extended the
same length from the original belt size. 22" and 25" are both 1/2"
shorter. 23" and 26" would work as far as keeping the dial centered but
on most machines that would have the motor hitting the bench. You can
use other combinations but you will have to re adjust the dial when
changing ranges and in some cases you will not be able to get the dial
calibrated. The outer sheaves on the speed changer pulley need to be
properly adjusted no matter what belts you are using. The spacing should
be set to allow the belts to go down into the groove as deep as possible
WITHOUT bottoming on the center hub. I try to set them with about 1/16"
daylight under the belt. With the 22 and 25" belts, if the sheaves are
not set correctly and belt tension set correctly, not only will you not
get full speed range but in some cases the pulley hub will rub on the
adjusting rod. I hope this helps some."

Since I have no 10/10E experience, I can not speak to the accuracy of these comments but this is an example of an excellent response to a request for assistance.

[cham-ed]

Contact Skip on the Yahoo 10ER forum. He stocks them and his are excellent. And I don't get a commission for this.

[chapmanruss]

You can order the belts from Skip at http://www.mkctools.com which is his website. He sells Goodyear "cogged" style belts which are excellent belts. I have these on the first 10ER I restored and have kept. Plain "V" belts like the original ones found on the Shopsmith Model 10's will work well too and I commonly use these to give them the original look. Many auto supply parts stores have belts available and you will find several brands. Be sure to get 4L "V" belts to get the correct width belt. I have not found anyone who sells belts in 1/2" increments so use 22 and 25 inch belts. If you are using a larger motor that puts the motor shaft further away from the headstock pulley you may need the next length belts.

For anyone who needs it here is a PDF replica I made of the speed chart.

Speed Changer Chart.pdf

(6.21 KiB) Downloaded 3137 times

[Phoeff99]

So with the help of Skip at MKC tools (excellent resource as you all know) I got some 4L230 and 4L260 belts (I have an “original” Montgomery Ward 3/4HP dual shaft motor) at my local Grainger and set them up. This is my first experience with a Shopsmith (10ER) and had spent a good while cleaning and lubing everything. I think I’ve got the belts tensioned correctly (more art than science) but I notice the speed changer gets quite warm after running. Is this normal? Does it indicate incorrect tension on belts? I’m using turbine oil as recommended by several here for the Oilite bronze bushings of the speed changer.

Also a few more quick questions;

Is it me or does the headstock lock/lamp (?) interfere with the speed changer knob? It seems I have to sort of pick my speed first then position and tighten/lock the headstock. Weird.

When turning between centers how do you position the tool rest for items say less than 6” long? I can’t seem to maneuver it where I need. Any tricks?

I’m sure I will have many more questions as I begin to use this but have found so many answers already among these posts and the documents you have all shared already. Thank you!

Alex (aka Phoeff99)

[larryhrockisland]

See this post.
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 56#p249056
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 93#p249093

[Phoeff99]

Ah! You, Sir, are a saint! thank you very much. And I presume the warming is normal result of friction with the sides of the pulley.

Thanks again!

Alex

See this post.
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 56#p249056
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 93#p249093