How do I prep aluminum for paint
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How do I prep aluminum for paint
Quick question from a restoration newbie. I picked up a couple old machines last fall that were priced too low to ignore. I'm cleaning them up now.
I've been wire brushing the cast iron parts on an old 10ER in preparation for paint. Seems to work well. However, I'm not sure what to use on the aluminum parts. The wire brush (brass) is too stiff for the aluminum and will damage it.
I don't have access to bead blasting equipment, but I do have access to a decent pressure washer. I also have some chemical paint remover on the shelf. I'd like to try electrolysis, but can't find the washing soda - haven't checked a pool supply store yet, but the hardware stores don't seem to have it around here.
So, are any of these decent, viable options? For those of you who've done this before, how do you prep the aluminum?
Thanks!
Doug
Denver, CO
I've been wire brushing the cast iron parts on an old 10ER in preparation for paint. Seems to work well. However, I'm not sure what to use on the aluminum parts. The wire brush (brass) is too stiff for the aluminum and will damage it.
I don't have access to bead blasting equipment, but I do have access to a decent pressure washer. I also have some chemical paint remover on the shelf. I'd like to try electrolysis, but can't find the washing soda - haven't checked a pool supply store yet, but the hardware stores don't seem to have it around here.
So, are any of these decent, viable options? For those of you who've done this before, how do you prep the aluminum?
Thanks!
Doug
Denver, CO
- cincinnati
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May not be the correct way but just restored an old Magna Jigsaw. I used a brass wire brush chucked in my Shopsmith. Cleaned all the old paint off the aluminum parts. All the parts were repainted. I would not wire brush parts to be left as is.
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Really? Is it that the wire brush wasn't too harsh for the aluminum or that you didn't allow it to stay in one spot long enough to cause damage?
I could have sworn it looked like I was about to start causing wire brush marks in the aluminum, but maybe it was just an optical illusion of the metal cleaning up???
I could have sworn it looked like I was about to start causing wire brush marks in the aluminum, but maybe it was just an optical illusion of the metal cleaning up???
hedgehog wrote: but can't find the washing soda - haven't checked a pool supply store yet, but the hardware stores don't seem to have it around here.
Thanks!
Doug
Denver, CO
Bake some baking soda in an oven at 310, for an hour. That will make it washing soda.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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Aluminum castings: Use Citrusstrip to remove paint. If yer gonna paint it, prime with 'self etching primer'(rustoleum).
It yer gonna leave it bare, a FINE wire wheel will work wonders, but a light touch is needed. The color will change, and you will get a feel for when to 'stop'. You can ALMOST get a rough polish sheen.
Are you sure your 'brass wheel' is not brass plated steel?
P.S. Do not use electrolysis on aluminum. Gotta watch it closely so as to not to start eating it up. Steel/iron is self limiting!
It yer gonna leave it bare, a FINE wire wheel will work wonders, but a light touch is needed. The color will change, and you will get a feel for when to 'stop'. You can ALMOST get a rough polish sheen.
Are you sure your 'brass wheel' is not brass plated steel?
P.S. Do not use electrolysis on aluminum. Gotta watch it closely so as to not to start eating it up. Steel/iron is self limiting!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Good question. I assumed the wire wheel was all brass, but now that I think about it the ends of the brush do "change" color with use. I assumed it was the brass heating up and changing color, but maybe it is just the brass coating coming off.
Either way, it's good to confirm that the brass will be too harsh on the aluminum. As "relaxing" as brush cleaning the old machine up is, I don't think I have a steady enough hand to ensure I don't slip and leave marks behind.
Citrustrip it will be... assuming I can find it at the local box store. TheyI still can't believe they had to special order the hammered gray paint...
Either way, it's good to confirm that the brass will be too harsh on the aluminum. As "relaxing" as brush cleaning the old machine up is, I don't think I have a steady enough hand to ensure I don't slip and leave marks behind.
Citrustrip it will be... assuming I can find it at the local box store. TheyI still can't believe they had to special order the hammered gray paint...
wire brushing & washing soda
You should be able to buy washing soda at the local grocery store, especially if it is an older, hometown style store.
I used a wire wheel in a variable speed drill to strip 90% of my Greenie with good results. I used Citristrip for the tight spots where I couldn't get the wire wheel in.
This is a great bunch of guys, genuine experts, who will steer you right.
Have fun with the refurbishing.
I used a wire wheel in a variable speed drill to strip 90% of my Greenie with good results. I used Citristrip for the tight spots where I couldn't get the wire wheel in.
This is a great bunch of guys, genuine experts, who will steer you right.
Have fun with the refurbishing.
'55 Greenie #292284 (Mar-55), '89 SS 510 #020989, Mark VII #408551 (sold 10/14/12), SS Band Saw, (SS 500 #36063 (May-79) now gone to son-in-law as of 11-11), Magna bandsaw, Magna jointer 16185 (May-54), Magna belt sander SS28712 (Dec-82), Magna jigsaw SS4397 (Dec-78), SS biscuit joiner, Zyliss (knockoff) vise, 20+ hand planes, 60s Craftsman tablesaw, CarbaTec mini-lathe, and the usual pile of tools. Hermit of the Hills Woodworks, a hillbilly in the foothills of the Ozarks, scraping by.
- dusty
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It will likely look like the following:fiatben wrote:You should be able to buy washing soda at the local grocery store, especially if it is an older, hometown style store.
I used a wire wheel in a variable speed drill to strip 90% of my Greenie with good results. I used Citristrip for the tight spots where I couldn't get the wire wheel in.
This is a great bunch of guys, genuine experts, who will steer you right.
Have fun with the refurbishing.
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"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I've had good luck (at cleaning) with steel wool. Use x-fine (I believe they call it "angel hair" steel wool). The surface should have some "tooth" so that the primer can stick to it. Then wipe it down with paint thinner and apply a coat of zinc chromate primer, which you should find in any automotive or boat equipment shop or even in the paint department at Lowes or Home Depot. After the zinc chromate primer, you can use any good oil-based paint. Those with aluminum boats should know best.
Jim in Tucson, Arizona
Jim in Tucson, Arizona