Height Adjustments

[crushgroovin]

I have a 500 mostly upgraded to a 510. Just missing a couple minor items like the extension legs. When I have it setup in full TS mode I have the main table, two end tables, and two floating table. All of them are connected together by 4 two foot tubes. Makes a nice large sturdy work area to say the least.

so the other day I was making a box and needed to cut some dado's. Everything worked great except that it was a pain in the but every time I needed to adjust the table height for different height Dado cuts. That nice big sturdy work surface is a pain in the but to lower & raise. I was cross cutting the dado's in some 6 foot stock so I had to move each part of the table then get the level out to make sure they were all level with each other. It took a good 5-10 minutes every time I wanted to change height. Has anyone found an easier or quicker way of adjusting the height of cut when in TS mode and using a large work area like I had setup?

Appreciate any constructive helpful insight. Please remember this is a friendly forum and do your very best to be polite.

[SDSSmith]

I have a 500 mostly upgraded to a 510. Just missing a couple minor items like the extension legs. When I have it setup in full TS mode I have the main table, two end tables, and two floating table. All of them are connected together by 4 two foot tubes. Makes a nice large sturdy work area to say the least.

so the other day I was making a box and needed to cut some dado's. Everything worked great except that it was a pain in the but every time I needed to adjust the table height for different height Dado cuts. That nice big sturdy work surface is a pain in the but to lower & raise. I was cross cutting the dado's in some 6 foot stock so I had to move each part of the table then get the level out to make sure they were all level with each other. It took a good 5-10 minutes every time I wanted to change height. Has anyone found an easier or quicker way of adjusting the height of cut when in TS mode and using a large work area like I had setup?

Appreciate any constructive helpful insight. Please remember this is a friendly forum and do your very best to be polite.

I would get the dado stack width and depth of cut set up using only the main table and a piece of scrap. Once satisfied with the width and depth, I would align, level the floating/extension tables to the main table.

[shydragon]

That's exactly why I bought the Bosch TS4109 table saw. I do all the dado or anything that is going to need change over. I bought the TSIII Ultra System for the shopsmith, and it is basically worthless for the shopsmith. Anytime, you want to make a blade change, install a dado, or even just change the height, it all has to come off. I don't even use it anymore, it just sits in a corner, begging me to sell it.

[crushgroovin]

Well now I am glad I have an old crappy Harbor Freight TS that works really well. I think I will set it up to work with my Ultimate tool stand. Will be an easy quick add on.

If you need a place to store that TSII Pat, I would be glad to hold onto it for you.

[JPG]

Well now I am glad I have an old crappy Harbor Freight TS that works really well. I think I will set it up to work with my Ultimate tool stand. Will be an easy quick add on.

If you need a place to store that TSII Pat, I would be glad to hold onto it for you.

How about sliding the tubes out one side so as to free the tubes from the main table, make the multiple test cuts on a 'scrap' piece, adjust the extension tables height and slide the tubes back. You will have to remove one floating table if you have one on each side of the main table.

I reread yer original post. Move the tubes out of the main table(2 left, 2 right).

[dusty]

When doing projects that I know will require numerous changes in depth of cut settings, I try to do without the tubes all together.

If cross cutting long pieces, the extension tables may still be required but they are easily adjustable to match the main table; precision adjustment of the extension table height is normally not necessary during this procedure.

[reible]

I've found that a floating table next to the main table can remain mounted (even one on each side of the main table but that starts getting heavy) and allows for height adjustment by just cranking. If you need a larger surface then going to the 5 foot tubes and adding an extension table to the picture still works well by sliding the tubes out of the extension table, adjusting the main table height then adjusting the extension table height and reconnecting the tubes.

If you want even more table top length then a second extension table mounted on the other end helps even if you don't tie it together with the tubes. For even more room you can add the tubes and a floating table reaching out away from the machine provide you have the legs supporting it.

A lot of this has to be done as a learning experience when first starting out. With the legs, extension table and floating tables you have a lot of options. Add in a second extension table and the 5' tubes and it even expands more and adds even more options. If you are planning on using your shopsmith you need to take the time to learn it. Even then it is easy to trick yourself and find the floating table really would be of more use on the other side of the headstock and have to pull things apart and redo them. The good news is that you get better at the process and the visualization and it takes a lot less time at that point.

I like to use a drywall square to get the table heights adjusted, that has been a mainstay in my shop for years now. For me it has been the best way to do it and is very quick. Some where here I have a post showing this but I don't recall where it is any more.

So, take some time, try a few things, make them work for you rather then against you, if all else fails you can always get some table supports like the ones you need for a regular table saw when the stock gets to wide... really like the ones that Home Depot sells they really work slick.

Ed