Shopsmith Forums

First let me explain that I know about 10ERs and shopsmiths from Shopsmith but have no first hand knowledge of years between so feel free to point out differences as you spot them.

This is related to alignment but only at the very highest level and in very general terms. If I had a machine ready for alignment here in IL I do a step by step of what I do but that machine is the UP of MI so I'll let that for someone else to post.

I've had a shopsmith 500 since 1976 up until a few years back when I upgraded to a 520. Need less to say I've done my share of alignments over the years as well as well machine checkups. In all cases I have not found any major issues with get it very close to perfect... and I'm talking numbers tighter then 1/32".

Consent wise it is all about getting the blade and table adjusted so the blade is parallel miter slots and perpendicular to table. If you keep it simple that is about it. The table is adjusted for "twist" by way of 4 bolts (and in some cases spacer washers to get it "flat" for drilling operations. The main table uses the miter slots as the reference in the horizontal mode. The tilting is the other adjustment that is needed. Once the blade is perpendicular in those two planes the main alignment is done. However if you don't have it right at this point every thing else you do will also be off. In other words you have to get this right.

I think this might be a good time to mention that the main table has milled sides. They are so close that they work very well as a reference surface for cutting. That is one of the features I miss in the newer table designs. If you have the PTWFE they show several applications of this being done and have even come up with more of them over the years. This is also one of the reasons for me wanting to have a 500 again.

Back to the alignment, the miter gauge must be perpendicular blade and should also be perpendicular to the miter slots. If it is not then you have a problem. The rip fence needs to be parallel to the miter slots. This is case of adjust and test adjust and test sometime but it is critical to have it right. If you have the newest version rip fence be careful not to over tighten the screws when finishing the alignment, they strip easy. BTW I have a wood gauge that fit snug in the miter slot and aids me with getting the rip fence adjusted.

Now we finally get to some pictures. The older extension table was a cast part, this is an image of the front edge for your reference.

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The main table has front rail part that looks like this:

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When mounted it looks like this (sorry for the odd angle):

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When the new wider table was introduced it to came with the extruded part as seen here:

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Which ever rail you have the rip fence doesn't care, they all work interchangeability.

When the front of the main table is aligned with the extension table the rip fence it will squaring it self to that front rail and in fact should be able to mount right over the junction of the two and still function.

In addition the sides of the extension table should mount flush with the main table. It should be aligned so that a straight edge sitting on the main table will show the extension table to be the same height all along the way and flat to the main table. If you have the old bolt arrangement or have installed studs you need to adjust it so it is right.

Now the problem that can show up is after adjusting the extension table on the left side it may not be the same if mounted to the right or the other way round. Thus the reason I have a left hand side extension table and a right side extension table.

One additional check you can make for extension tables on the right is to lower the extension table so the main table can slide over it. Attach the rip fence to the extension table and slide the main table up against the rip fence, the should align.

Other set of critical things to do if you want your alignment to be correct.

Make sure the headrest clamp is adjust so it clamps down and is tight, if not done then the tubes operate independent of each other and who knows what you will end up with. I got bit by this a couple of years ago when I was doing a well table check. Noticed that things were off and started to do a realignment until I noticed the clamp was not clamped. Put the lever down and bang it was right on again.

Make sure you lock the table and carriage locks, make sure the extension table is locked in position, quill locked, blade arbor tight, tilt lock tight.... you get the idea right?

OK hope this covers the basics without leaving the computer room on this very hot day.

Ed

Thank you very much, Ed. I think I understand and I believe that I have confirmed that the front edge of the main 500 table and that from the bandsaw (rear edge) are very, very similar if not exactly the same.

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Mark 5's produced before Shopsmith Inc. had the narrow extension tables that Ed showed in the first pix. Those had the fence reference surface cast in(then milled slightly). They do not have the same dimensions as the extrusion. Nor do they all have the same dimensions.

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This in my main table and extension table purchased new in 1963

This is why I believe there was NO intent to make a smooth transition of sliding the rip fence across that gap nor to permit securing the rip fence across it.

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These are three other narrow extension tables acquired at various times. Notice the wide dimensional variation of the beveled surface the fence references when attaching/squaring up. The only constant is the beveled surface being flat across the front of the extension table.

The Greenies and early(3/4hp gilmer) goldies(I think) main table also had the cast in front surface, not the extrusion.

Yes Dusty the extrusions on the bandsaw for the ripfence and the table extension ARE the same as the wide extension table and pre 510/520 main tables. Do not know about '505'.

SDSSmith wrote:Not sure what you are referring to with the 505, but the 505 is/was just a 510 without floating tables, table tubes and telescoping legs. It replaced the 500 as the entry level machine.

I have been unclear re the '505'! Thanks for 'defining it'. All I really remembered was the table size was increased. Wondered about the fence etc. Now it comes together!!! Thanks again!!!

Based on the images posted here and in the other related thread, I would conclude that the bevel is the critical reference surface for rip fence alignment.

If I had a serious alignment problem, I might well start by ensuring that this bevel was the same angle on all of my tables and that it matched the mating beveled surface on the rip fence.

dusty wrote:Based on the images posted here and in the other related thread, I would conclude that the bevel is the critical reference surface for rip fence alignment.

If I had a serious alignment problem, I might well start by ensuring that this bevel was the same on all of my tables and that it matched the mating beveled surface on the rip fence.

That beveled surface is indeed the reference surface for rip fence alignment.

As long as that surface is flat across the front, that is sufficient. Then the fence may be attached to the extension table and the table squared to the main table miter gauge slot by referencing the edge of the fence(just as the main table miter gauge slot was used to adjust the fence alignment initially).

There is no need for the surfaces to 'match' as long as each beveled surface properly aligns the rip fence properly. There is too much dimensional variation between tables to allow the fence to either slide across the gap or bridge it when secured.

It may be possible with the extrusions on the wide extension table, but hardly worth the effort IMHO. With the wide extension table there should be no need to do so.

In my case if I need to rip to a dimension not possible (fence needs
to be 'just off the main table', but not fully on the extension table when butted against the main table), I use the secondary blade slot(that is why it exists).

OK I went into the jungle that is my garage to retrieve my box of 500 parts to find the original small tables I have. These have been off the machine for a lot of years as I upgraded to the wider tables when they came out (any one know the date??). I also pulled out 2 more, one that came with another machine (the machine was from 1979 but who knows about the table) the second was purchase for the tube parts and I have no history to recall on that one.

Three of these are the same and one is different. The different one has the front angle machined with a larger amount of surface area, it looks a lot different then the others. The three, two from my original 1976 model and the one that came with the 1979 machine all have that area a lot smaller.

When matched with my original table it is clear that the wear lines are in alignment with the three. When in use the rip fence slides nicely over the seam and locks squarely anywhere over the joint the same as if the joint were not there. Now I only did this with one of the three and I would have done the others but it is a lot of work getting everything mounted and aligned and all for nothing more then posting here as I don't plan to ever use the small tables again.

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The odd table does NOT align well. If you get the angle portion to match then the front are not aligned and with the fronts aligned the position of the angle is wrong. It appeared clear that these two would not play well together. When the angle parts are aligned the wear marks also aligned so since I had nothing to loose except a bit more time I went ahead with the rip fence tests anyway. When the angles align there is still space in the rip fence head and it doesn't bottom out... so far so good. Well quite unexpectedly the rip fence slides along and seems to work just fine.

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I would suggest further testing from those of you who have the hardware along these lines. I'm finished and the hardware I have is ready to be put away again. Can't say you will have the same results, but it looks to be worth you checking your hardware if you want.

BTW the angles were aligned using a ruler edge and trying to have 3 hands to keep things in place so good luck with that too.

I would really like to here from some others after they check what they can do. I know I learned something new today.

Ed

whats this mean

I use the secondary blade slot(that is why it exists).

farley wrote:whats this mean

I use the secondary blade slot(that is why it exists).

The Mark 5 had in addition to the blade slot that accepts all the different inserts an additional slot on the left side of the table. It allowed you to move the table over and increase the blade to fence distance(fence on the right side).
http://cgi.ebay.com/Shopsmith-Mark-V-Work-Table-Model-500-Blade-Slot-/270619523317?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

This link is temporary!