Arbor fitness

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papajim
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Arbor fitness

Post by papajim »

Are the arbors purposely difficult to fit on the Spindle Assembly? Now that the saw blade and arbor is off the spindle, and cleaned and lubricated, how do you put it back on?
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wa2crk
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Post by wa2crk »

Papajim;
The arbors should go on the shaft as a slide fit.
If you are having problems check for burrs on the quill shaft and if there are any remove them with a fine jewelers file. Also check that the set screw is retracted fully from the arbor bore. Even a slight projection of the screw into the bore will cause interference. Inspect the set screw, it should have a flat tip not a cone tip. A cone tip will cut into the quill and displace some metal and cause some burrs to form.
Also check the inside of the arbor bore for any contamination as this will also cause the arbor to fit too snugly. (rust and the like)
The tolerances are very tight and almost anything can contribute to a tight fit.
Bill V
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dusty
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Arbor Fitness

Post by dusty »

The arbors should slide onto the shaft with virtually no resistance. If you are having difficulty, as it sounds you are, first make certain that the set screw is not protruding into the bore.

I periodically polish the shaft with a piece of fine grit emery cloth with the Mark V running at slow speed. I clean the bore in the arbors with emery cloth as well.

If you continue to have trouble, maybe some photo images of your arbors and shaft would help the members see what your problem might be.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

All that I'll add is that the fit is tight. Tight enough that when ya remove the various closed end arbors, it'll "POP".
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
papajim
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Post by papajim »

The shaft looks good, the color and feel of gun metal. I think the arbor is the trouble, I see rust. I think I need a new arbor.

Now I know, thanks
lv2wdwrk
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Post by lv2wdwrk »

papajim wrote:The shaft looks good, the color and feel of gun metal. I think the arbor is the trouble, I see rust. I think I need a new arbor.

Now I know, thanks
You might want to try cleaning before you buy a new one.
Bob

Don't try to make sense out of nonsense!
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wa2crk
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Post by wa2crk »

Papajim;
Don't throw that arbor away just yet!!! The arbor bore is 5/8 of an inch. Take a 3/8 inch piece of dowel and cut a kerf with a band saw or a jig saw or if you have to a coping saw about 2" down from one end along the length of the dowel. Then take a piece of 180 or 320 grit sandpaper and slide it into the kerf and wrap the paper around the dowel. Chuck the other end of the dowel into a power drill and put the dowel with the sandpaper end into the arbor bore. When you run the drill the sandpaper will scour the inside of the arbor bore. (if you folded the paper in the right direction)
Bill V
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

Absolutely don't throw the arbor away. It's fixable. (but if you do, I'll take it) :D
Mike
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papajim
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Post by papajim »

Thanks, I will give that a try. It never occurred to me to use a dowel to hold sandpaper.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

papajim wrote:Thanks, I will give that a try. It never occurred to me to use a dowel to hold sandpaper.
A 'better' 'solution' if it be rust, is to submerge it in evaporust overnight. Minimal abrasives use is preferable IMHO. If it is scratched or has a burr, then abrasives or filing IS required. Evaporust is cheaper by the gallon at HF.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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