Quill Conversion

[aloneryd]

Mark V Greenie, ok ,thanks for all your previous feedback,much appreciated. Now, I called Shopsmith, they were very informative and helpful. Well,I have the older gilmer drive,I had wondered,since I was told by Shopsmith,dual bearings on the quill,is only on the poly rib belt drive setup,so I was thinking why couldn't the inside of the quill rear section be cleaned up and a second bearing be pressed into the rear section? Anybody done this? When fitting the drive shaft assy, back in the head in the drive,would a thin coat of never seize help future bearing removal ? Thanks in advance

[JPG]

Mark V Greenie, ok ,thanks for all your previous feedback,much appreciated. Now, I called Shopsmith, they were very informative and helpful. Well,I have the older gilmer drive,I had wondered,since I was told by Shopsmith,dual bearings on the quill,is only on the poly rib belt drive setup,so I was thinking why couldn't the inside of the quill rear section be cleaned up and a second bearing be pressed into the rear section? Anybody done this? When fitting the drive shaft assy, back in the head in the drive,would a thin coat of never seize help future bearing removal ? Thanks in advance

You got access to a machine shop?

[dusty]

Mark V Greenie, ok ,thanks for all your previous feedback,much appreciated. Now, I called Shopsmith, they were very informative and helpful. Well,I have the older gilmer drive,I had wondered,since I was told by Shopsmith,dual bearings on the quill,is only on the poly rib belt drive setup,so I was thinking why couldn't the inside of the quill rear section be cleaned up and a second bearing be pressed into the rear section? Anybody done this? When fitting the drive shaft assy, back in the head in the drive,would a thin coat of never seize help future bearing removal ? Thanks in advance

Someone has converted a single bearing to a double bearing quill. I'll search a bit for the thread but I suspect it was not the subject of the thread and is well camouflaged. Otherwise.

[pennview]

Here's a thread on a three-bearing quill -- https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=4543

You wouldn't want to use anti-seize compound when installing a bearing. You actually want a press fit on both the shaft and housing. If it were loose, you'd want to use bearing sealer/bearing mount to lock the bearing in place.

[mickyd]

Someone has converted a single bearing to a double bearing quill. I'll search a bit for the thread but I suspect it was not the subject of the thread and is well camouflaged. Otherwise.

Bill Mayo did

[holsgo]

Well, I just mentioned this in another thread but I did manage to add 2 bearings right behind the single. These 2 bearing tuck up inside the quill. As you remove the ring and pull out the spindle you'll see the current single bearing and then on down the spindle some hat washer. I pulled off the washer. Then ordered some bearings 22x32x7. These were high speed rated as well as had a high 900 lbs dynamic load.
To make a long story short, it took some fiddling because the bearings were a bit loose at first on the spindle. I had to make a metal sleeve to shim the bearings tight to the spindle. But the bearings were, of course tight to fit inside the quill. I tried the freeze and heat method to expand the quill and shrink the bearing. The choice was machine shop to remove the material or grind it away. So, with more time than money, I spend the next 2 days or so with my calipers and a drum sander mounted in my drill. Finally, after learning a trick from Bill Mayo on mounting the bearings I managed to put the assembled quill back together and slide it into my headstock. It fit tight, but it fit. Then I heald my breath and started her up. She went through all of the speeds. Then I mounted everthing I could to test side thrust and no problem. I tested runout and it was less that.001. I lastly mounted my 3 jaw chuck and turned some pipe and no problem.
So, in the end, it worked and worked very well. Necessity is the mother of invention and again, with more time than money and a ton of patience I was able to have a huge change with these 2 bearings.

[damagi]

Its interesting that you put your bearings on the qull end rather than the drive end like Shopsmith did on the 2-bearing quill.

In Robert Bailey's articles he puts the bearing on the drive side. The concept is that the maximum deflection is in the middle of the quill, so stabalizing the drive side in addition to the quill side will minimize deflection. Of course, he also went with a much larger center section of the spindle to further prevent deflection.

[billmayo]

Its interesting that you put your bearings on the qull end rather than the drive end like Shopsmith did on the 2-bearing quill.

In Robert Bailey's articles he puts the bearing on the drive side. The concept is that the maximum deflection is in the middle of the quill, so stabalizing the drive side in addition to the quill side will minimize deflection. Of course, he also went with a much larger center section of the spindle to further prevent deflection.

Installing a second bearing on single bearing quills at the quill end or the splined end and having tested for hours at high speed, I find I have much less runout over time with the second bearing installed behind the front bearing. The 2 front bearings together appears to have less wear/play than just a single bearing on the quill end and one on the spline end. I use the double front bearing quill for light milling work (X/Y vise).

I have the following broken headstock that I use for checking quill bearings and for bent quill shafts
[ATTACH]11039[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]11040[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]11041[/ATTACH]

[aloneryd]

Your on my main thought. Your multiple bearing setup, is what Im looking for. Now my question,which I may have overlooked in your article is, can one mount the double bearing in the front section AND a rear bearing back toward the end by the hat bushing? Do you think the combination of these two separate bearing locations would increase the stability even more? This could be utilized to the gilmer setup as well, correct?
bergy

[holsgo]

First, my engineeering was in a large part inspired by Bill. That being said it was just much easier to place the bearings behind the current single. Now, like I said before noone told me not to and I have more time than money. If I had even more time I would have added 2 more but before I went that direction I needed to see if two would work. I'm sure if you were to do 2 on the spline end it would work just fine.
Here are my only thoughts about the spline end, first by adding right behind the single I was able to use the single as a reference so as not to add the 2 additional incorrectly. I was able to use a spark plug gap tool to measure the slight gap between the single and the additional 2. Second was that I couldn't work on removing material inside the quill that far down. Working on the bearing end gave me access to the quill inside the shoulder the current single rests against. I could measure better there.
My outcome has been great so far. My runout is minimal and I measured it many times similiar to Bills setup in the pics. The machine makes a very smooth sound as it speeds up. Lastly, all of those bearings up front are more able to disburse any side thrust.
There's probably more experts than I on this.