Greenie

[mrhart]

I have discovered after a purchase, I have a 288192 s# which makes my shop smith older than me. It is green and flaking. It runs, but I need a little info before I use it on oiling ect. It has the ancient onwers manual etched in a stone tablet. I hope I did not make a mistake. I had no idea it was that old.
It has a bandsaw with a 1980's manual, and a jointer. I have cleaned up the surfaces ect on the table saw and have been reading whats available. Alittle help maybe with the oiling procedure as the stone tablet is a little vague.

[dusty]

I have discovered after a purchase, I have a 288192 s# which makes my shop smith older than me. It is green and flaking. It runs, but I need a little info before I use it on oiling ect. It has the ancient onwers manual etched in a stone tablet. I hope I did not make a mistake. I had no idea it was that old.
It has a bandsaw with a 1980's manual, and a jointer. I have cleaned up the surfaces ect on the table saw and have been reading whats available. Alittle help maybe with the oiling procedure as the stone tablet is a little vague.

Rest assured that you made no mistake just because it is older than you. Browse around in this forum and you will find that what you have is typical of many, many machines in service today.

Before you use it, I would recommend that you review these Sawdust Sessions]http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/faq/markv.htm[/url] scroll down!

[ludwig]

I also have a clasic greenie. Mine was made in Jan 1955, it has no name plate hole,so the way Ioiled the control sheave was
1. put it in drill press mode
2. run it up to high speed.
3. take off belt cover and tie up to top of machine.
4. pry up spring and drop a few drops of oil directly on shaft next to sheave
5. manualy turn sheave to let oil work in
6. put it all back together.
good luck, mine is still going strong
P.S. be sure after step 3 to unplug Mark V

[holsgo]

I agree with all of the above. I too have a greenie which was given to me. It was in OK shape but sprang to life with some of the info on this forum. I believe I stole Mickyd's paint scheme. Mine is a 1954 built like a tank and 17 years older than me. Impressive.
The things I focused on were the cord, heatshrinking the motor wires, paste waxing everything, cutting the access hole and adding bearings to the spindle. The bearings may be a topic all their own but I added 2 bearings behind the single, tucked into the quill. This took a while to figure out but Bill Mayo started my thinking as he uses gets use out of his as a light milling machine. That may be beyond your scope right now but the access hole is really key.

[JPG]

I also have a clasic greenie. Mine was made in Jan 1955, it has no name plate hole,so the way Ioiled the control sheave was
1. put it in drill press mode
2. run it up to high speed.
3. take off belt cover and tie up to top of machine.
4. pry up spring and drop a few drops of oil directly on shaft next to sheave
5. manualy turn sheave to let oil work in
6. put it all back together.
good luck, mine is still going strong
P.S. be sure after step 3 to unplug Mark V

This is good as far as it goes. However the control sheave is omitted. Also turning the sheave (and shaft) will not work the oil in. The sheave needs to slide(in/out) on the shaft to do that.

Unfortunately with this version, the motor pan and motor need to be dropped to access the control sheave. This unit may also be one with NO oil hole in the control sheave snout.

All below assumes initial positioning the speed to fast.

Remove the belt cover and secure it near the tie rod end of the way tubes.

Carefully remove the belt from the motor pulley(a large screwdriver helps). Pulling the floating sheave away from the motor decreases the pulley diameter and makes that easier.

A trick that helps with the motor pan 'dropping' is to raise the ss into vertical position with the headstock about 2/3 way above the 'bottom' end of the way tubes. Take the work table, position the tilt as you would for drill press operation, and insert it into the carriage backwards(from what would normally be the bottom(top of table facing up)). Position the table just under the motor pan. This provides a platform to support the motor and pan after it is separated from the headstock.

This gives you easy(ier) access to both the control sheave on the idler shaft and the floating sheave on the motor shaft.

The motor shaft should be visible looking through the spring on the shaft end furthest away from the motor. Apply oil liberally to the shaft and if you can, work the oil in by pulling the sheave away from the motor(it be a stiff spring) and allowing it to return(slowly so as to prevent the sheave slamming into its 'stop' near the motor). Do that several times and add more oil if it seems to 'disappear'. More than likely if this has not been recently it will be very 'dry' and oil will seep in quickly. Try to raise the end to allow the oil to run down the shaft into the sheave bore. A keyway slot on the motor will be a good place to put the oil.

Now, the control sheave. If it has the hole in the control sheave 'snout' then that is where you add the oil. If not, the space between the pulley flanges will reveal the shaft and a keyway slot on the idler shaft. Add the oil there. Run the speed dial down and up a few times to work the oil in(since the motor belt is removed, this is not detrimental to the speed control). Return the speed setting to fast. Again don't be stingy with the oil. I recommend leaving it raised overnight to allow the oil to migrate towards the small bearing in the end of the snout.(courtesy Bill Mayo)

After overnight migrating, add a few more drops of oil and put er back together again.

There are 'Sawdust Sessions' covering the belt removal and lubrication, but do not specifically relate to an 'old style Greenie'.

The table reversal providing a platform for the motor was developed 'externally' from ss and Nick.

When you fire it up after reassembly it may sling excessive oil onto the interior of the headstock and belt cover. Save cleaning it up for the next time you do all this. The stone tablet says to lubricate every 10 hrs of use(or it should). Realistically with that onerous procedure with that model, a couple of times a year is probably sufficient(unless you use it quite often). If you anticipate an extended period of use, do all this before beginning that.

Once you have completed this task at least once you will be less intimidated by the need to perform it!

Get a 'Zoom Spout' oiler(a 4 oz plastic bottle with a long plastic tube). There are other brands. The oil is like electric motor or sewing machine oil or 3 in one oil. HVAC supply houses are a likely source.

[ddvann79]

I agree with all of the above. I too have a greenie which was given to me. It was in OK shape but sprang to life with some of the info on this forum. I believe I stole Mickyd's paint scheme. Mine is a 1954 built like a tank and 17 years older than me. Impressive.
The things I focused on were the cord, heatshrinking the motor wires, paste waxing everything, cutting the access hole and adding bearings to the spindle. The bearings may be a topic all their own but I added 2 bearings behind the single, tucked into the quill. This took a while to figure out but Bill Mayo started my thinking as he uses gets use out of his as a light milling machine. That may be beyond your scope right now but the access hole is really key.

holsgo,

Did you have the inside of the quill milled out to accept more bearings or did you use bearings with a smaller OD? If so, what are they? I'm considering the same thing. Thanks!

[mickyd]

I agree with all of the above. I too have a greenie which was given to me. It was in OK shape but sprang to life with some of the info on this forum. I believe I stole Mickyd's paint scheme. Mine is a 1954 built like a tank and 17 years older than me. Impressive........

Nice looking Greenie!!! I can't take credit for the paint scheme. That's as close as we can come to the original paint job....Rustoleum Verde Green and Silver.

[damagi]

I agree with all of the above. I too have a greenie which was given to me. It was in OK shape but sprang to life with some of the info on this forum. I believe I stole Mickyd's paint scheme. Mine is a 1954 built like a tank and 17 years older than me. Impressive.
The things I focused on were the cord, heatshrinking the motor wires, paste waxing everything, cutting the access hole and adding bearings to the spindle. The bearings may be a topic all their own but I added 2 bearings behind the single, tucked into the quill. This took a while to figure out but Bill Mayo started my thinking as he uses gets use out of his as a light milling machine. That may be beyond your scope right now but the access hole is really key.

Could you share the part numbers and info on your bearing mod?

Thanks!

[JPG]

Could you share the part numbers and info on your bearing mod?

Thanks!

looky looky here!

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=78832&postcount=6

[holsgo]

Here are the bearings I got from us bearings and belts. Look them up on ebay.
ABEC 3 6804-2RS Bearing
I attached 2 pics. Of course my measurement was off by a fraction (leading me to new calipers) and the bearing is oversize a slight fraction. Of course the bearing is spec'd for a press fit. This led to the bearing being loose on the spindle. So, this is where I had to craft a metal sleeve to take up the loose space while being a tight fit. After the sleeve was epoxy'd in place on the spindle I was able to press fit the bearing over the sleeve using a trick where I grabbed the sleeve in pliers and then hit the pliers with a hammer to create ridges. These ridges then centered the bearing on the sleeve. With loctite the bearings were mounted.
I believe I described the fit into the quill in another thread but you have to remove small amounts of material and check measurements along the way. The key is to fit the bearings into the spindle just as tight as the current single fits withough making the spindle off center.
The key to this for me was no one told me it couldn't be done! Isn't that what started Apple computers.